Nu Finish on 2020 Soul Red

[181962]

After testing it in a door jamb I applied Nu Finish to the Soul Red paint on my 2020 with 5k miles, along with any other shiny parts. That's the garage door opener and the ceiling bulbs reflected in the hood along with the wipers.

I also applied Nu Finish to the outside and inside of the windows, the inside being a personal hack I discovered. The following picture is shot through the window of the open front passenger door after applying Nu Finish. If swirls on the inside of glass are driving you nuts, after you try glass cleaners that don't work or the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser hack, or the other hacks that don't really work, try this. A few seconds to wipe on, a few seconds to wipe off.

That's about half a bottle of Nu Finish for the whole detail job, $4 US worth at Walmart. I wouldn't use it on any grainy plastic. It's fine on smooth plastic or faux chrome.

For exterior grainy plastics, like the black trim that encircles the bottom of the vehicle, and for wiping down the entire interior I used Meguiar's Natural Shine Protectorant, $5 US for a 16oz. bottle at Walmart. Cleans with a bit of shine, non-oily, says it has Scotchguard in it. I don't see any reason to use anything else. It even worked fine on the faux suede. I think this is my 4th. detail with that bottle with some still left so cost per vehicle is about $1. Spray on a microfiber until damp, wipe, done.

Add some loose change for the wash soap. The wash mit, cloths and sponge are none the worse for wear after going through the washer and will live to fight another day. Total cost for this DIY full detail is under $6 with about 4 hours spent at a fairly leisurely pace.

 

[Ceej007]

I wouldn't use any wax on textured plastics.

I used to use nu finish but over time I graduated to Meguiars waxes and a spray on ceramic to finish it off.

I have never tried waxing the inside of the windows. Going to have to think on that.

 

[181962]

I wouldn't use any wax on textured plastics.

Neither do I, as I said.

I used to use nu finish but over time I graduated to Meguiars waxes and a spray on ceramic to finish it off.

Is it graduating or is it just spending more money and doing more work?

I have never tried waxing the inside of the windows. Going to have to think on that.

Nu Finish is not a wax.

 

[wobmarl]

It is a polish but others considered it as a cleaner/sealant.

 

[CX5_Driver]

Anyone wanting to use Nu Finish should check out ScottHD's YouTube channel

Scott H

This channel is about all things detailing - comparing products head to head WITHOUT SPONSORSHIP. I am not bought and paid for like so many of these product ...

www.youtube.com

specifically

and the follow up

don't just jump to the end, there is a LOT of good testing / explanations in the video(s).

 

[sm1ke]

Is it graduating or is it just spending more money and doing more work?

It really depends on your expectations. If you want durable protection, NuFinish is hard to argue with. If you want gloss and/or depth, Meguiar's Ultimate is a nice option, but it isn't as durable as NuFinish. Both take the same amount of effort to apply/remove.

 

[181962]

Interesting videos above. Until you get to the end of the second video the evidence the formula changed is questionable: the older product might have aged and regulations might have changed requiring more disclosures, as the reviewer suggested. The performance comparison at the end of the second video kind of clinches the theory that the formula did in fact change for the worse.

I started using Nu Finish in early 2019 through yesterday, three bottles all purchased at Walmart, 5 details, 3 different vehicles. The current bottle purchased two months ago has the 2018 Energizer copyright. I detect no difference across the three bottles as would stand to reason, probably all of the 2018+ version.

It has also been my experience that Nu Finish isn't really a once per year product as they continue to advertise, consistent with the video test. From my experience reapplication is needed somewhere between six months and a year to fully restore decent sheeting action. It beads well throughout regardless. Factors such as whether the vehicle is garage kept and how much it is driven in what kind of weather would have an affect on longevity as with any treatment.

It's probably worth noting these tests took a beat to sh*t piece of sheet metal, "restored" it with a bunch of products, then applied Nu Finish. If the 60 day test was repeated on new sheet metal or well maintained old metal the results for the 2018+ version might be better. My 60 day performance is better than that. Then again, my vehicles are garage kept, not left out in the weather as in that test.

 

[181962]

It is a polish but others considered it as a cleaner/sealant.

It contains a polymer or polymers. Crudely put, those are plastics of a sort.

The first video did answer a question I've always had about the product: does it contain an ultrafine abrasive?

In the first video, the safety sheet for the old bottle shows ceramic microbeads. When rubbed on and rubbed off I'd take that to be an abrasive. The safety sheet for one of the 2018+ bottles shows a clay compound, also an abrasive. As noted in the video, a full list of ingredients would not be provided, only those deemed of some health risk.

My take is those abrasive compounds give it cleaning/polishing properties as it is applied (the manufacture calls it a "polish" after all), then it sets up as a plasticy, shiny sealant as it hazes.

 

[181962]

It really depends on your expectations. If you want durable protection, NuFinish is hard to argue with. If you want gloss and/or depth, Meguiar's Ultimate is a nice option, but it isn't as durable as NuFinish. Both take the same amount of effort to apply/remove.

While not having compared how much better the gloss and depth of Meguiar's Ultimate might be, I'm pretty happy with the gloss and depth in the OP. It's not like Nu Finish is some drab overcoat. To your point, any minor improvement in gloss and depth, if there is one, is not worth more money and mostly not worth the additional work of more frequent applications from my perspective. Others may feel differently if they can in fact detect a difference in a side by side comparison on their own vehicle.

 

[meGrimlock]

Use what appeals to you, and stick to a regimen. As with all detailing products, Nu Finish has a limited shelf life. After 1.5-2 years I found application is a little harder to wipe off and shine/gloss is diminished. So apply to all the cars you're taking care of, and maybe repeat every 5-6 months to get your money's worth. I've personally switched to spray waxes like Optimum Car Wax as there's no buffing, and some spray waxes are plastic friendly.

 

[MyFirstMazda]

I might try nu finish. I have been using Griot's poly wax. The water beads for a long time, but it leaves a residue that I can see when light hits my doors at a certain angle. It is good enough, but I heard great things about nu finish.

After watching Project Farm, I am going to try Hybrid Solutions.

Hybrid Solutions

 

[CX-5um]

Use what appeals to you, and stick to a regimen. As with all detailing products, Nu Finish has a limited shelf life. After 1.5-2 years I found application is a little harder to wipe off and shine/gloss is diminished. So apply to all the cars you're taking care of, and maybe repeat every 5-6 months to get your money's worth. I've personally switched to spray waxes like Optimum Car Wax as there's no buffing, and some spray waxes are plastic friendly.

First of all I applaud OP's efforts. Nothing like putting in work and the results speak for themselves.

I switched to Optimum No Rinse with Wax. It takes 30 minutes for 1 car using my method using 1 spray bottle for application unto dirty surfaces then 1 bucket with 2 soaked MF rags folded 8 ways each for removal. Each panel/section gets touched by a clean folded soaked surface. Can be applied to glass and plastics so I do windows last. 1 Dry towel to buff windows while they are slightly damp. Clay barred every 6 months or so.......using same product as lubricant and cleaned in same step.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

First of all I applaud OP's efforts. Nothing like putting in work and the results speak for themselves.

I switched to Optimum No Rinse with Wax. It takes 30 minutes for 1 car using my method using 1 spray bottle for application unto dirty surfaces then 1 bucket with 2 soaked MF rags folded 8 ways each for removal. Each panel/section gets touched by a clean folded soaked surface. Can be applied to glass and plastics so I do windows last. 1 Dry towel to buff windows while they are slightly damp. Clay barred every 6 months or so.......using same product as lubricant and cleaned in same step.

Why would you use the clay bar every 6 months? Is your car picking up THAT MUCH contamination that it needs mechanical decontamination that often?

Remember that using the clay bar marrs the surface of the paint, as it removes the contaminants, even with lubrication. If you're not doing a paint correction after every clay use, you're damaging the finish more and more every time.

As Larry from AMMO NYC teaches, only use clay when it's needed, and only on the panels that need it. A good, thorough initial decontamination, followed by paint correction, with plenty of good protection on top (wax or ceramic coating) should not need further mechanical decontamination that often.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

The OP's photos don't really show much. Post a photo of the reflection of bright sunlight on the panel, please.

 

[CX-5um]

Why would you use the clay bar every 6 months? Is your car picking up THAT MUCH contamination that it needs mechanical decontamination that often?

Remember that using the clay bar marrs the surface of the paint, as it removes the contaminants, even with lubrication. If you're not doing a paint correction after every clay use, you're damaging the finish more and more every time.

As Larry from AMMO NYC teaches, only use clay when it's needed, and only on the panels that need it. A good, thorough initial decontamination, followed by paint correction, with plenty of good protection on top (wax or ceramic coating) should not need further mechanical decontamination that often.

With my method all paint surfaces are smooth to the hands touch. I clay bar the bottom sections of the front doors, front fenders, rocker panel every 6 months because they feel rough to the hand. Its primarily road tar accumulation. You don't even need much pressure as the Optimum does most of the work. The clay lifts up he rest. Smooth finish. Mirco scratches?? why yes but not enough for me to see in the sun light. That would bother me.

I also do a light claying on my headlights' paint protection film and moderate pressure claying of windshield.

Back to the road tar on the bottom of cars here's an extreme case....then again this is much I'd get in 1 year during my commute if left unchecked.

 

[sm1ke]

I thought 6 months was a pretty short time between clay bar treatments too. Have you tried Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover? Before I started down the rabbit hole of detailing, I paid a friend to "detail" my car. All he did was spray the areas you mentioned with the Bug and Tar Remover, then buff it off with a microfiber before getting his polisher and doing one pass with a liquid wax. For stuff like bugs and tar, the TW stuff works well, and its a lot less likely to mar the paint. Just a suggestion.

 

[isaleigh]

After testing it in a door jamb I applied Nu Finish to the Soul Red paint on my 2020 with 5k miles, along with any other shiny parts. That's the garage door opener and the ceiling bulbs reflected in the hood along with the wipers.

View attachment 227408I also applied Nu Finish to the outside and inside of the windows, the inside being a personal hack I discovered. The following picture is shot through the window of the open front passenger door after applying Nu Finish. If swirls on the inside of glass are driving you nuts, after you try glass cleaners that don't work or the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser hack, or the other hacks that don't really work, try this. A few seconds to wipe on, a few seconds to wipe off.
View attachment 227409
That's about half a bottle of Nu Finish for the whole detail job, $4 US worth at Walmart. I wouldn't use it on any grainy plastic. It's fine on smooth plastic or faux chrome.

For exterior grainy plastics, like the black trim that encircles the bottom of the vehicle, and for wiping down the entire interior I used Meguiar's Natural Shine Protectorant, $5 US for a 16oz. bottle at Walmart. Cleans with a bit of shine, non-oily, says it has Scotchguard in it. I don't see any reason to use anything else. It even worked fine on the faux suede. I think this is my 4th. detail with that bottle with some still left so cost per vehicle is about $1. Spray on a microfiber until damp, wipe, done.

Add some loose change for the wash soap. The wash mit, cloths and sponge are none the worse for wear after going through the washer and will live to fight another day. Total cost for this DIY full detail is under $6 with about 4 hours spent at a fairly leisurely pace.

Never tried using Nu Finish before but after reading this thread, I am buying one. Hopefully, I'll have the free time this weekend to detail my CX-9.

 

[CX-5um]

90

I thought 6 months was a pretty short time between clay bar treatments too. Have you tried Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover? Before I started down the rabbit hole of detailing, I paid a friend to "detail" my car. All he did was spray the areas you mentioned with the Bug and Tar Remover, then buff it off with a microfiber before getting his polisher and doing one pass with a liquid wax. For stuff like bugs and tar, the TW stuff works well, and its a lot less likely to mar the paint. Just a suggestion.

1 product: Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax.

I spend maybe 15 mins to clay bar Mazda6 ONLY on bottom of fenders, front door and rocker panels every 6 month. Its lower to ground than CX-5. Oh I see why you guys are questioning.....I can't remember last time clay barring CX-5. The CX-5 has more protection from road tar due to mud flaps. The Mazda6 in my commute is not so lucky. Nonetheless 15 mins of my time every 6 months. Not a whole car treatment. No reason to do so. I haven't applied sealant nor my Collinite 845 Mazda6 or CX-5 for maybe 1 1/2 - 2 years now. See pic of my 5 year old Mazda6 with 75k miles from this morning. Monthly treatment constantly builds up protection on surfaces. I get this level of shine and smooth finish using just 30 mins of my time per month to clean all paint, trim, mirror, and windows. My cousin uses the stuff for his interior but I prefer 303 Protectant for that......I may experiment with it though inside.

I got this idea of bypassing traditional wax/sealants from pros I believe from the Autopia or autogeek forums a few years ago.

I previously used product as a detailer every 2 weeks but got lazy. So every month it is.

Wheels: Aside from paint, trim, and windows they are wiped down taking 5 minutes each using moist baby wipes and Optimum no Rinse Wash and Wax. I actually don't wipe them down as often....maybe every 2-3 months or so. When taken off for a tire rotation I clean whole wheel (inside barrel) and behind spokes using Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax.


Edit: added 2 more pics. "3M Pro Series" Paint protection film professionally installed on my lower front bumper. to save money I installed it on my hood (18 inches up) and on headlights myself.

 

[181962]

The OP's photos don't really show much. Post a photo of the reflection of bright sunlight on the panel, please.

Sunshine photos below. Again, this is a one year old vehicle, 5,000 miles. As discussed in another thread, the left side of the hood was treated with Adam's Iron Remover after the OP pictures were taken with Nu Finish reapplied. Otherwise, it was just washed followed by a Nu Finish application. I've not gotten around to doing the full hood and roof with Adam's yet. The sides are quite smooth and don't require treatment.

The car's a little dirty in these photos, not washed since the OP, but I gave the hood a light rub down with a microfiber for the pictures. You'll see some swirl marks around the reflection of Ol' Sol which might be from when the dealer purportedly detailed it in June or I might have caused it. They look oddly chunky in this photo but are actually quite fine and can't be seen from a few feet away. A couple of the white spots are dings; others like on the left edge of the hood I have no clue because I could not see them with the naked eye when I went back to check it out, maybe road splash I subsequently wiped off.

As others have said, it depends what you're going for. I think the depth and shine is quite good and it should be well protected through the winter. For show car appearance, other steps and products would no doubt be required such as a finish restorer to get out the swirls. I might or might not get around to that someday.

My experience bears out reports from others that this vehicle has a soft finish. There are more blips on the hood and roof paint where the Adam's has not yet been applied (industrial fallout I'm thinking) than on my recently departed 2006 Accord which was quite smooth with no deep cleaing or restorations since a clay bar job about 10 years ago. The CX-5 is about on par blip-wise with the roof of my 2014 Sienna with 90k miles which I had not noticed before becoming blip obsessed. I may never iron-out the Sienna. This CX-5 paint may require more on-going attention.

 

[CX5_Driver]

a person can really go down a rabbit hole of product testing and usage.

long story short - NU Finish does a "pretty good job" and for the price it is darn hard to beat - but don't forget your time is worth something. When picking a product be sure to evaluate the time and effort to apply / reapply the product (I think NU finish still bodes well).