No start but have spark and fuel

I checked out the descriptions of the alternators at Rockauto and the alternators appear to be different.
They are both externally controlled but there are a lot of differences.

They may even have different dimensions with different bolt holes?






Damn of course it won’t work,I found an alternator off an MPV in the garage lol looks like I better head to the pick and pull
 
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2020 CX-5 AWD
Not yet,I was gonna do one after we found out it had spark and fuel but wouldn’t start. But I had to pull the alternator off and use it on the daily
Ok, sounds like you'll be getting to that at some point.

Also, was this vehicle running well, right after you got it and before you did the timing belt? I'm guessing that it wasn't, because you discovered the bad HG shortly after the timing belt job, which should have caused it to be running poorly right from the get go.
 
Ok, sounds like you'll be getting to that at some point.

Also, was this vehicle running well, right after you got it and before you did the timing belt? I'm guessing that it wasn't, because you discovered the bad HG shortly after the timing belt job, which should have caused it to be running poorly right from the get go.
That’s the worst part,I bought it not running from a kid that had no idea what was wrong with it. He said he was doing about 80 on the highway and it just died on him. When we tore it apart the first time it just looked like the timing belt stretched out and skipped a few teeth. The gasket really wasn’t too hateful but there was a crack in it so we replaced it anyway along with new head bolts. I’m leaning toward it being a compression issue since it’s got fuel and spark and still won’t fire with starting fluid,which sucks because I’ve dumped a ton of money into the car already and haven’t even got to hear it run. I was hoping it was just like a blown fuse for the security system but of course I couldn’t be that lucky lol
 
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2020 CX-5 AWD
That’s the worst part,I bought it not running from a kid that had no idea what was wrong with it. He said he was doing about 80 on the highway and it just died on him. When we tore it apart the first time it just looked like the timing belt stretched out and skipped a few teeth. ….
I read where you and PCB discussed a warped head, but didn't see anything mentioned about the valves. A 'few' teeth off makes it likely that at least some of the valves were bent due to contact with the pistons, so I'll ask if you checked them to see if any were damaged.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I read where you and PCB discussed a warped head, but didn't see anything mentioned about the valves. A 'few' teeth off makes it likely that at least some of the valves were bent due to contact with the pistons, so I'll ask if you checked them to see if any were damaged.

Our FS-DE engine is supposed to be a non-interference engine.
But there have been rare cases of bent valves.

If it turns out to be the cylinder head, a head from a wreck shouldn't be too much money.

If the wreck was taken off the road because of an accident, the engine was probably working at the time and would have a good head.
 
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I read where you and PCB discussed a warped head, but didn't see anything mentioned about the valves. A 'few' teeth off makes it likely that at least some of the valves were bent due to contact with the pistons, so I'll ask if you checked them to see if any were damaged.
I never checked since they are non-interference engines,I probably should’ve checked.
Our FS-DE engine is supposed to be a non-interference engine.
But there have been rare cases of bent valves.

If it turns out to be the cylinder head, a head from a wreck shouldn't be too much money.

If the wreck was taken off the road because of an accident, the engine was probably working at the time and would have a good head.
If I can even find a parts yard that has one. I haven’t found anything recently and lost out on getting a parts car. Before I got the car,i could find parts all the time lol
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
This is my post from another thread.

" This is the way that I understand it.

Every new FS-DE engine is a non-interference engine.
But over time, both ends of the connecting rods wear and develop slack.
There is just enough slack to have the piston throw up far enough to hit a valve.

I assume that hard driving along with engine braking increases the wear.

When I first got my car and did my timing belt, all the parts suppliers listed the FS-DE engine as an interference engine.

To find out, I cut the timing belt off my parts car and hooked a drill up to my crankshaft, and spun it up.
Then I slowly rotated both camshafts around to see if any pistons would hit a valve and it didn't happen.

This only proves that my parts car is still a non-interference engine but I don't think it's the exception.

I'm pretty sure that more than 95% of our engines are still non-interference engines.

I believe that my DD is non-interference especially with the way I drive it, so I'm not changing my T-Belt again until it snaps.

My test may not have been 100% accurate because my drill only spun the crankshaft at a few hundred RPMs so the pistons may not have had enough inertia to take up any slack and go past normal TDC. "
 
Just found something on the car and it got me thinking. Could a hallowed out catalyst (or pre cat, whatever the big canister on the manifold is) keep the car from running? There was nothing inside of it and it’s pretty much a 5inX12in expansion chamber now lol.

I’m just trying to make sure it isn’t something stupid keeping it from running before I rebuild or swap it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I doubt it.
Some guys hollow it out for better flow.

Other guys delete it altogether when they install headers.
 
Just got an alternator for the car finally. I noticed a big gap on the crank sensor as well, gonna drain the oil and replace it with fresh, get the gas out of the cylinders that’s still hanging out in there and give her another try. If it doesn’t work, I found a 2003 mazdaspeed in a scrap yard that ran, everything is still there so worst case scenario, I end up with an FS-DET.
 
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So after a few months of wrenching on different projects I decided to try the P5 again..I talked to an old Mazda tech and he thinks it’s either slightly out of time or it’s the MAF since it gets fuel and spark but won’t fire. The MAF looks aftermarket,so it could definitely be the issue. Gonna try to put the alternator back on,adjust my crank sensor,then pull the MAF from my old P5 and see if that’s the issue. Kinda mad I never thought to check it lol
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
If you have consistent spark, (more than a few.), then your crank sensor should be fine.
(but it won't hurt to check it.)
 
If you have consistent spark, (more than a few.), then your crank sensor should be fine.
(but it won't hurt to check it.)
I just figure it needs to be closer. The gap difference between the running one and non running one is definitely noticeable. I would literally s*** a brick if that’s what has been keeping it from running is weak spark
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
... I would literally s*** a brick if that’s what has been keeping it from running is weak spark
The crank sensor is kind of an all or nothing kind of thing.

You either have spark or you don't. However, there is a certain amount of error that the ECU allows, before it shuts down the ignition system. It is possible, that your sensor is missing the signal from say, one particular tooth, the ECU will allow it.
But the spark should still not be affected.

I'd guess that checking your timing is a good idea, (although it's a lot of work). Check the timing marks on the plastic cover and make sure they are in alignment with the notch on the crankshaft gear.

Your harmonic balancer may have slipped. The toothed ring is rubber mounted to the crank pulley and they have been known to separate and slip. Then your car won't run.

The part that I tried to circle is rubber. It can slip and throw off the allingment of the toothed ring. I'm not sure what affect that would have on the spark.
It may be out of time, or it may get shut down?

Screenshot_20210409-082755_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20210409-082930_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
And check the regular timing as well...


View attachment 297508
I think it’s probably a tooth or two out of time somehow, even though the marks were in line and the belt slipped right on, then was still in line with the timing marks after the tensioner got tightened. I’ll figure it out after I dig the car out, some of the ceiling in the garage came down on it and there’s a mower and Camry in the way still lol I really thought this would’ve been a quick project, but here we are, 7 months later and still not a step farther lol.