NewP5 Owner. Saying Hello!

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
This is a thread from the guy that figured out the problem.
Our engine seems excessively bad for oil burning.
It seems like half of us here are burning oil.
Some are burning a quart every 150 miles.

At that point I think it's worth the risk to try and flush the engine and free up the oil rings.

 
Updates: Bought a new set of tires.
Washed and clay bar the hood Will try to finish the roof and then apply a healthy amount of Nu-Finish Car polish when everything is done

Questions:
I went to my local Mazda dealership asking for Air Filters and an Oil Filter. and just any fluids they have for the car.

They gave me a Mazda Air Filter "B595-13-z40-9u and I don't think it's the right one.

It fits the spot just fine but it's way to thick for the cover the close. Just want to confirm my suspicion is correct.

I should've checked when I was there. They gave me Automatic Transmission Fluid when I have the MT. Dumb question but- is it the same oil for both automatic and standard?

Lastly- I'm curious to see what can be done to repair/refresh these rims. Not sure if that's possible but wanted to check in with you guys. All 4 wheels are like this.

Thank you for your help everyone!
 

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2x 2001 SP20 323's
New tires are always a great thing :)

Dealerships can be hit or miss, AT and MT oils are very different beasts so I wouldn't use the AT fluid unless you get 100% confirmation it'll work

ChrisFix has a great video about repairing and repainting wheels!

 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
One other thing to keep in mind is to not overfill your gas tank.

When the pump handle shuts off, don't put more than about 25¢ worth in.

Liquid gas tends to run backward down the vent line causing all kinds of problems and codes.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I'd suggest a Seafoam treatment (or similar) to flush any sludge out of your engine.

You can prevent oil burning but it's really hard to try to fix once it's started. (it could mean a rebuild or new engine.)

If you don't want to risk an engine flush treatment, then at least change your oil every 3000 miles.

It's the best way to prevent seized oil rings.
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
I'm with pcb, I would highly recommend an engine flush. Especially if you're getting gas in your oil. Save those bearings! An engine flush has been added to the list of to-do for any used car I buy. Your engine had already made it longer than mine, but I still think it couldn't hurt.
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I'm with pcb, I would highly recommend an engine flush. Especially if you're getting gas in your oil. Save those bearings! An engine flush has been added to the list of to-do for any used car I buy. Your engine had already made it longer than mine, but I still think it couldn't hurt.

Maybe just a 1/3 of the recommended dose at a time so you're less inclined to release a big ole blood clot and give your car a stroke or heart attack.

Dissolve the sludge slowly.
 
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OK Guys. Very much in the process of swapping out all the fluids out of this car. Looks like the last servicing was done back in 2017 and based on the motor oil, I suspect that maintenance wasn't done since then.

So Far I did an oil change, coolant flush, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid change, and now I'm thinking about transmission fluid differential fluid/oil change.

Which leads to my question: Is it wise to swap out the Transmission Fluid (is there a difference between ST and AT fluids) at this point? My concern is if it's the dirty oil that's holding the transmission together,swapping it out with fresh ones will make the trans slip.

It is very possible that I'm confusing AT issues which doesn't apply to ST cars like this P5.

Thank you again for your sage advice.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Yeah, go ahead and change your gear oil.

Reusing old oil and having problems with new oil is an automatic transmission issue.

Make sure you've got gear oil for a MT.

 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Some guys use Redline gear oil and swear by it.

If you have really cold winters, you may want to go with synchromesh oil to help stop grinding of the gears.
 

323

(u_u) ...zZzZzzz
Moderator
I liked the Redline MT90 I used years ago. Though I can't say the Pennzoil Synchromesh is any worse in my shifting experience. Went with the latter the last time because I didn't have to order and wait for it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I liked the Redline MT90 I used years ago. Though I can't say the Pennzoil Synchromesh is any worse in my shifting experience.

I only had issues in the winter when it was well below freezing out.

I would grind every gear for about 20 minutes until my transmission warmed up.
 

323

(u_u) ...zZzZzzz
Moderator
I only had issues in the winter when it was well below freezing out.

I would grind every gear for about 20 minutes until my transmission warmed up.

Yeah you live in a place with a far colder climate than me lol. Feel like our coldest mornings are in the 20's. Cold nights, shoot I'm just at home and not going anywhere.
 
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