New Owners - Check your Tire PSI

[DwightFrye]

My CX 5 is the first new car I have purchased since 2009. And the first one since 1982 that has an automatic transmission. I looked at Section 6.1 Maintenance and Care in the (downloaded to PDF) manual and saw nothing about checking the AT fluid level among the instructions for checking engine oil, coolant, etc. Can someone please point me to the section of the manual that details the procedure for checking the AT level ?

 

[yrwei52]

Check your Tire PSI

My CX 5 is the first new car I have purchased since 2009. And the first one since 1982 that has an automatic transmission. I looked at Section 6.1 Maintenance and Care in the (downloaded to PDF) manual and saw nothing about checking the AT fluid level among the instructions for checking engine oil, coolant, etc. Can someone please point me to the section of the manual that details the procedure for checking the AT level ?

Checking your ATF level for your new CX-5 is a good idea as many have found the factory-filled ATF level is low. But it's a little more involved and here's the SOP from Mazda Workshop Manual:

Nice!

ATF level should be at the central marker area on the dipstick at 122F while the engine is running. Make sure to shift into all possible gears during the warm-up.

Judging by the color of your drained ATF, I may consider another drain-and-fill if I were you.

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You can click the small blue double-arrow next to my id of the quote heading and go to another thread to read more details.

 

[shadonoz]

The next interior revision of the CX5 will get the new infotainment and individual tyre pressure read out. See page 8 here.


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Thanks for that. Interested to see the hybrid.

 

[Chocolate]

Looks like a bigger (wider) infotainment screen in the images. Wonder if that will be standard across the line or only on higher specced versions.

 

[DwightFrye]

Thanks for posting that Yrwei52, but seriously have people really been going through that rather involved process just to be sure that the ATF is at the proper level when delivered to them ? I don't think that ATF, brake fluid and engine oil are filled by the dealer upon delivery from the factory. I believe they only add washer fluid, remove the plastic wrap and a few other non critical prep procedures. I trust the factory to have done it right more than the dealer who is indifferent about something as simple as tire pressures.
In fact that reminds me of when I bought my Nissan 370Z. Some owners reported that the dealers had not removed some kind of spacer blocks from the suspension that were there for transport only and wondered why their 370's had such a jarring ride.
I suppose I will ask the dealer to check the ATF level when I bring it in for the free oil change.

 

[yrwei52]

Check your Tire PSI

Thanks for posting that Yrwei52, but seriously have people really been going through that rather involved process just to be sure that the ATF is at the proper level when delivered to them ? I don't think that ATF, brake fluid and engine oil are filled by the dealer upon delivery from the factory. I believe they only add washer fluid, remove the plastic wrap and a few other non critical prep procedures. I trust the factory to have done it right more than the dealer who is indifferent about something as simple as tire pressures.
In fact that reminds me of when I bought my Nissan 370Z. Some owners reported that the dealers had not removed some kind of spacer blocks from the suspension that were there for transport only and wondered why their 370's had such a jarring ride.
I suppose I will ask the dealer to check the ATF level when I bring it in for the free oil change.

I agree. Dealers pre-delivery inspection is just that, inspection, theyre not going to top off anything which is obvious to see as long as the fluid level is above the minimum level. (Remember those fluids to top off are dealers expense and expensive if you add up.) Worse, Mazdas fluid capacities on specs have full of discrepancies, such as engine oil capacity for 2.5L is 4.8 quarts based on Mazdas spec, but we need to put 5.3 quarts to reach the Full mark on dipstick during oil change! Rear differential gear lubricant is 0.48 quarts (for gen-1, 0.37 quarts for gen-2 CX-5) on spec, but we need 0.75 quarts to reach the fill-hole!

Based on many members experience for 2.5L CX-5, engine oil、coolant、rear differential gear oil、and ATF are all under-filled from factory, or at least are substantially below the Full mark. Checking ATF level during pre-delivery inspection wont be happening due to its complicate procedure. Some had tried to have dealer checking the ATF level for rough-shifting problem but in vain.

 

[Chocolate]

I agree. Dealer*s pre-delivery inspection is just that, *inspection*, they*re not going to top off anything which is obvious to see as long as the fluid level is above the *minimum* level. (Remember those fluids to top off are dealer*s expense and expensive if you add up.) Worse, Mazda*s fluid capacities on specs have full of discrepancies, such as engine oil captivity for 2.5L is 4.8 quarts based on Mazda*s spec, but we need to put 5.3 quarts to reach the *Full* mark on dipstick during oil change! Rear differential gear lubricant is 0.48 quarts (for gen-1, 0.37 quarts for gen-2 CX-5) on spec, but we need 0.75 quarts to reach the fill-hole!

Based on many members experience for 2.5L CX-5, engine oil*coolant*rear differential gear oil*and ATF are all *under-filled* from factory, or at least are substantially below the *Full* mark. Checking ATF level during pre-delivery inspection won*t be happening due to its complicate procedure. Some had tried to have dealer checking the ATF level for rough-shifting problem but in vain.

Great post. Every manufacturer has a few faults. My previous vehicle, a 2013 Lexus LX 570, has a 100% failure rate by 100k-120k for the starter motor until it was redesigned for 2016 (and due to moronic design, requires taking the top of the engine off and costs $1000 in parts and labor), and the rear hydraulic suspension line rusted out at 50k miles even though I took care to keep the vehicle free of salt. That also costs almost $1000 but it was covered under the CPO Certified warranty thankfully.

On that vehicle, it's extremely easy to change the rear differential oil. The vehicle does not even need to be raised off the ground. All you need is remove two bolts, have a pan ready, and fill with a few bottles of the correct spec differential oil. This saves you money over having the dealer do it. I am curious if it as easy on the CX while it's lifted.

 

[yrwei52]

Great post. Every manufacturer has a few faults. My previous vehicle, a 2013 Lexus LX 570, has a 100% failure rate by 100k-120k for the starter motor until it was redesigned for 2016 (and due to moronic design, requires taking the top of the engine off and costs $1000 in parts and labor), and the rear hydraulic suspension line rusted out at 50k miles even though I took care to keep the vehicle free of salt. That also costs almost $1000 but it was covered under the CPO Certified warranty thankfully.

On that vehicle, it's extremely easy to change the rear differential oil. The vehicle does not even need to be raised off the ground. All you need is remove two bolts, have a pan ready, and fill with a few bottles of the correct spec differential oil. This saves you money over having the dealer do it. I am curious if it as easy on the CX while it's lifted.

A friend of mine had a 2003 Lexus LX 470. He sold his 13-years-old LX with 100,000 miles 3 years ago in Connecticut before moving to the Bay Area for retirement. His LX had never had ANY issues since new and the battery is still OEM from factory survived 13 cold NE winters when he sold it. He owned several Mazda's before including MPV、626、and Millenia but since then he is getting nothing but Lexus' and Toyota's for daily driver. I guess he sold his LX just in time to avoid those expensive repairs you mentioned!

 

[Chocolate]

I'd never push a starter battery that far, but the Panasonic batteries they use are very good. Replaced mine with a fresh Duracell (Deka) for $130. I did have zero repairs from 68,000 miles to 140,000 miles on my 2004 ES 330, aside from needing replacement rotors and the timing belt service at 90k. Those vehicles are definitely from a different generation (see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShU3soBqlUY ) but solid $5k cars.

 

[shadonoz]

Looks like a bigger (wider) infotainment screen in the images. Wonder if that will be standard across the line or only on higher specced versions.

You can see it on the new 3 right now.

 

[Chocolate]

You can see it on the new 3 right now.

Good point. The new 3 has a 8.8 inch display across all trims. A little bigger but I'm perfectly happy with the 7" display.

 

[JB20]

Picked up my new signature last night. The ride home was a little stiff. Checked my air pressure this morning and all 4 tires were at 40 psi, 5 psi too high. Thanks for the tip.

 

[yrwei52]

Picked up my new signature last night. The ride home was a little stiff. Checked my air pressure this morning and all 4 tires were at 40 psi, 5 psi too high. Thanks for the tip.

Id try to keep the cold pressure to 37~38 psi, 2~3 psi above Mazda recommended 35 psi first on gen-2 CX-5 with 19 tires. Remember the ride on CX-5 is on the firm side than others. The colder weather is coming, youll need more air for your tires pretty soon.

 

[VQ35DE]

Picked up my new signature last night. The ride home was a little stiff. Checked my air pressure this morning and all 4 tires were at 40 psi, 5 psi too high. Thanks for the tip.

I would leave it as is.

 

[Sleeper]

Checked my pressure over the weekend, dealer delivered 39.4 psi front, 39.7 psi read, actually pretty impressed they were the same left to right.

 

[ARMCO]

Thanks for this heads up. Mine were at 40 psi.

 

[Whiter0se]

Has anyone noticed a decrease in MPG after returning the tires to the correct PSI? Im at 39 all around and debating if I should bring em down to 36. It rides quite well and doesn'tseem to be bad when going over bumps.

 

[erhayes]

I'd run what the manufacture recommends. The reason is that is the best pressure with respect to safety, handling and tread life. In my opinion 39 is too high because for a small amount of fuel savings, you will compromise the other features. This assumes the recommended pressure is 34 psi. Ed

 

[MyFirstMazda]

I checked my tire pressure for the first time today, because of the cooler weather. Three tires were at 30lbs and one was at 41lbs! I put 37lbs in all of them.

 

[shadonoz]

I checked my tire pressure for the first time today, because of the cooler weather. Three tires were at 30lbs and one was at 41lbs! I put 37lbs in all of them.

Was the 41 on the front or back? I'm guessing back if you couldn't tell anything was wrong due to handling, right?