New Clutch for Mazda2

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Another trip to the dealer, another question to the forum. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I myself don't know much about this stuff, I don't know anyone that does, and I haven't been able to find a trusted mechanic in my area (Nyack, NY). Hence, I get everything done at the dealer, and ask the forum questions when I get hit with a big bill.

I'm at 65K now and just the other day my clutch suddenly got soft on us. (My wife and I pretty much each learned to drive stick on this car.) Dealer confirms that the clutch is slipping and mentions that the flywheel is fine. Replacing the clutch will cost $1098. Also said the seal on my oil pan needs to be re-done: $260. Seems pretty steep to me.

Let me know what you guys think. If I can, should I buy the clutch and have another mechanic do the labor? Just trying to think of ways to cut my costs.

Also, trying to get an idea of how long I might be able to drive the car before the clutch totally gives out. We were planning to take this car on our vacation this weekend and we're wondering if it might last until next week when we have more time for repairs. I realize no one can say for sure, but I'm curious to know what people have gotten away with.

As always, thanks!

 

[chumlet]

Well cutting costs for having a clutch replaced can be tough. It's a tough job that asks for a lot of hours. But I'm sure if you search around for a reliable mechanic that $1098 can probably get down to $700-$900 possibly. As for the car getting you through your vacation we need a little more info on the slipping. Is it every take off the clutch slips? If so I would not drive the car unless it was really needed. Hope this helps!!

 

[eyeballs]

If your rpms go up and the car is not accelerating, then your clutch is slipping. Usually you'll notice it first in 5th gear. If you haven't noticed this yet you should be fine to go on vacation. The engine or transmission will need to be removed to do the clutch, so there is no getting around a big bill on this one. If you don't have any oil leaks I wouldn't worry about the oil pan seal.

Now...if you'd like to have a better/sportier feel for the clutch engagement at the cost of a firmer clutch pedal then I'd recommend an upgraded clutch from ACT (I'm not sure what other brands are available for upgrades) instead of the stock unit. One of the forum members here did just that and was VERY happy with the results.

I, for one, am very dissatisfied with the extremely vague feel of the stock clutch and would jump at the opportunity to go with an upgraded unit.

 

[MzDemio]

Another trip to the dealer, another question to the forum. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I myself don't know much about this stuff, I don't know anyone that does, and I haven't been able to find a trusted mechanic in my area (Nyack, NY). Hence, I get everything done at the dealer, and ask the forum questions when I get hit with a big bill.

I'm at 65K now and just the other day my clutch suddenly got soft on us. (My wife and I pretty much each learned to drive stick on this car.) Dealer confirms that the clutch is slipping and mentions that the flywheel is fine. Replacing the clutch will cost $1098. Also said the seal on my oil pan needs to be re-done: $260. Seems pretty steep to me.

Let me know what you guys think. If I can, should I buy the clutch and have another mechanic do the labor? Just trying to think of ways to cut my costs.

Also, trying to get an idea of how long I might be able to drive the car before the clutch totally gives out. We were planning to take this car on our vacation this weekend and we're wondering if it might last until next week when we have more time for repairs. I realize no one can say for sure, but I'm curious to know what people have gotten away with.

As always, thanks!

I know about another brand makes real good option clutch

ACT
EXCEDDY

 

[eyeballs]

Ive used the heavy duty ACT and OEM replacement exedy in the past (on subarus) and have been pleased with both.

 

[blueturd]

where in NY do you live.... like the post above see how much the rpm jumps/slips during acceleration. I used to ride my forester around on a bad clutch for months with out changing so I think you should be good for vacay.... I ask where you live in a NY because my brother is a mechanic (for 10+ years now) for Riverhead toyota and hes done all my work....and the 2 is a very easy car to work on so I'm sure he will do it alot cheaper then 1000+.

 

[zoom-zoom 2]

@blueturd: I'm in Nyack, NY, so I'm ~2 hrs away from you. Thanks for asking, but really hoping to find someone closer in Rockland or Westchester counties.

Thanks for the feedback all. Since ~$1100 is a lot to drop without some serious consideration, I decided to skip it for now. 65K seems early to me and I always understood the clutch to wear out over time, not something that you suddenly have problems with. I picked up the car from Mazda and got a chance to drive it around myself this time around. Drove fine from NY to OH and back this weekend. It's softer than when we first bought the car for sure, but my feeling is that it's just running the normal course of any clutch.

As I was talking with people, some suggested that instead of a worn clutch, maybe there is air in my lines and/or maybe I need a transmission flush. I'm wondering if I should at least try these options since they are considerably less expensive and may help. The manual doesn't indicate when the transmission fluid should be replaced and it's been the same fluid since I first bought my car.

@eyeballs and @blueturd: RPMs are not climbing without acceleration and I also have no problems getting into gear. Car accelerates as soon as I'm hitting the friction point and gear is engaging.

Whenever my clutch really ends up needing replacement, I'm interested in replacing it with a non-stock clutch, as you guys have suggested. The ACT clutch ... any specific suggestions?. I'm curious which models you guys actually used. I'm not racing, but I wouldn't mind a bump up in performance. Is this something I could buy myself and have a local mechanic or Mazda specialist install it instead of the stock? I'm really a newb to this stuff, so I don't know how you guys go about getting this stuff done (if you aren't doing it yourself).

Thanks!

 

[kamui157]

I'd start with just replacing the clutch fluid and doing a bleed first. That may firm up your pedal feel right away.

To test if your clutch is slipping, find a slight hill, put it into 5th gear around 25mph and floor it. If the rpm's climb without going much faster your clutch is slipping, if the engine bogs down, you're fine for now. Least that's what i've been taught to do.

 

[zoom-zoom 2]

I'd start with just replacing the clutch fluid and doing a bleed first. That may firm up your pedal feel right away.

I talked to two techs at the Mazda dealership and they were pretty reluctant to do the flush/bleed of the clutch line -or- the tranny flush. They advised against both, claiming that neither one is going to do anything for me. The flush/bleed of the clutch they said is something they don't typically need to worry about in newer cars, certainly not in one that is only 2 yrs old. They also said the tranny flush was not necessary because it is only gear oil and does not degrade like its ATF counterparts. Basically, they were adamant about not doing either of these services because they didn't think they would help and did not want to waste my money.

Good guy Mazda techs, right?! I don't know. I'm wondering if they really are trying to help me avoid unnecessary work and costs, or hope that their [illusion of] honesty will convince me to just go ahead with the $1100 clutch replacement.

Also still wondering if anyone any comments on my questions about the ACT clutches... thanks!

 

[Joker2]

No tranny flush. Just do the 5th gear pull and post results.

 

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Did the 5th gear pull... went into 5th no problem, but that's about it. No rpm climb and barely (if any at all) acceleration. I'm pretty sure I would've stalled if I stayed in 5th any longer than I did.

So it sounds like I'm good, for now at least... right? Any other tricks to try out?

 

[AN7]

It's softer than when we first bought the car for sure, but my feeling is that it's just running the normal course of any clutch.

When the clutch is warn, the clutch pedal gets harder to push.

 

[Rotaryknight]

Did the 5th gear pull... went into 5th no problem, but that's about it. No rpm climb and barely (if any at all) acceleration. I'm pretty sure I would've stalled if I stayed in 5th any longer than I did.

So it sounds like I'm good, for now at least... right? Any other tricks to try out?

If you did a 5th gear pull with full throttle atleast up to 60mph, and the clutch is not slipping, then it should be fine.