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Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Timing is advanced 23 degrees on 500 and 1000rpm
Injectors are 440 blues
When it starts to dip it goes to 15.5-15.8. Then it gets a shot of fuel and rpms come back up and afr swoops up to 12.5-13.2 ish. The afr numbers are just from memory. I should probably log the event so I can see more of what's happening. It's warm today and may do it again.
It only does it in the heat of the day. Cooler morning or evening driving doesn't do it.
Injectors are 440 blues
When it starts to dip it goes to 15.5-15.8. Then it gets a shot of fuel and rpms come back up and afr swoops up to 12.5-13.2 ish. The afr numbers are just from memory. I should probably log the event so I can see more of what's happening. It's warm today and may do it again.
It only does it in the heat of the day. Cooler morning or evening driving doesn't do it.
It's likely that it is just touching a new water temp cell on the map. Probably right on the threshold and when it jumps you get the stutter. Check for a smooth slope all the way through the highest ranges of the water temp fuel curve and it should help.
Water temp cells are all on a smooth curve. So are the air temps. I don't think this is solely a tuning issue. I've prettymuch tried everything I could think to do on the microtech and its really not all that complicated. Could it be signal breakup of one of the sensors?
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
Why is your tps at 0% at idle? May need to recalibrate... I may be wrong but with my Haltech 0% is closed with the engine off... and at idling I'm at 1%... Past checking that try to merge the surrounding cells on the map at idle to close to the same inj time. One other thing is being that your using larger injectors too...Ive never been able to idle perfect stoich and the bigger injector the richer the idle needs to be in order for the larger injectors to keep flowing nice and steady.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
It seems as soon as you get below 1.00ms inj time its going lean then richens up to counter it... I'll bet once it gets warmer and the corrections kick in and drop that injection time even more it will be more obvious
So here's a video of what's happening at high engine bay temps. It only happens at idle and only on the hottest of days. [flash=http://www.flickr.com/apps/v...olor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"[/flash]
NSN installation manual says that there are "bundled red wires with the injector wires". I do not see any red wires at all. I also think that it is just supplying the injectors with power, and the blk/ylw orng/ylw, and ylw orng wires are the switched grounds. But there is already power to the injectors....... Right? no need to worry about these "red wires"? Please help
NSN installation manual says that there are "bundled red wires with the injector wires". I do not see any red wires at all. I also think that it is just supplying the injectors with power, and the blk/ylw orng/ylw, and ylw orng wires are the switched grounds. But there is already power to the injectors....... Right? no need to worry about these "red wires"? Please help
Correct. The red wires are simply a 12v power source. Don't worry about them and just tap into the signal ground wires.
COOL! thanks. Can I just use the stock coolant sensor??? I am using a extra gauge to take actual readings so my stock one is useless to me. And I will have to pick up a 1.0-1.5K ohm resistor. along with that I will need a diode. However the instructions do not show how ithe diode for the IAC goes in. I do want the stock ecu to control the idle, so please let me know how that wires in. THANKS! getting damn close to being done!!!!!!
It is possible though that the stock ECU will not supply power (for example if it can't see the CAM sensor). So while using the stock wiring for the 12v supply on the injectors can work, and should in most cases, you may run into issues otherwise. You can use the stock coolant sensor, but it will be a little off, the curve does not match the microtech calibration. It'll work fine though.
Diode I don't remember off the top of my head... so I can't help there.
Diode I don't remember off the top of my head... so I can't help there.
hope this might jog your memory..
White w/black (LT10S only): Auxiliary output. This auxiliary output has the ability to be used as a PWM output for controlling the idle air control solenoid. This allows for improved cold start and idle up conditions based on active accessories. The AuxAIR functions you will find in the Microtech software control this output.
IAC Hookup: To make the auxiliary output WHITE w/BLACK wire from the Microtech drive the IAC you will need to do the following. Locate pin 83 at the ECU and cut the wire approximately 3” away from the ECU.. Cap the wire leading back to the ECU with a white end crimp. Connect the extra Pink ignition switched (or other ignition switched wire) to the portion of the wire leading into the engine bay. Then locate pin 54 at the ECU and cut approximately 3” away from the ECU. Cap the end leading back to the ECU with a white end crimp and then attach the WHITE W/BLACK wire from the Microtech to the wire leading into the engine bay. Note: A diode is necessary for this step. Please contact NSN for more information. It is recommended that you leave the IAC control to the stock computer as it makes an effective and reliable combination unless you need more unique control of this feature.
White w/black (LT10S only): Auxiliary output. This auxiliary output has the ability to be used as a PWM output for controlling the idle air control solenoid. This allows for improved cold start and idle up conditions based on active accessories. The AuxAIR functions you will find in the Microtech software control this output.
IAC Hookup: To make the auxiliary output WHITE w/BLACK wire from the Microtech drive the IAC you will need to do the following. Locate pin 83 at the ECU and cut the wire approximately 3” away from the ECU.. Cap the wire leading back to the ECU with a white end crimp. Connect the extra Pink ignition switched (or other ignition switched wire) to the portion of the wire leading into the engine bay. Then locate pin 54 at the ECU and cut approximately 3” away from the ECU. Cap the end leading back to the ECU with a white end crimp and then attach the WHITE W/BLACK wire from the Microtech to the wire leading into the engine bay. Note: A diode is necessary for this step. Please contact NSN for more information. It is recommended that you leave the IAC control to the stock computer as it makes an effective and reliable combination unless you need more unique control of this feature.
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