Mazda5 with iStop - how to select and install both batteries

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Mazda5 2.0 DISI i-Stop
The oldest of the second gen Mazda5's with istop are getting to about 4/5 years old now, and for most owners the batteries will be fairly tired, and your car will be out of warranty.

For those that don't know, the 2.0 DISI Mazda5 has the iStop system which is a forerunner to the full Skyactive e-Loop system. Basically the car has a main, larger, start/stop battery and a smaller battery bolted next to it that runs the ancillaries when the car is in auto shut-off mode. Both batteries were designed and built for Mazda by Panasonic.

The problem is, a dealer will charge you 250+installation to replace both of these, and the ancillary battery is described as 'dealer fit only' if you use most online parts lookup sites.

There is an easier way....

After much searching and research, the main battery is a type 053. Except, most online parts lookup tools will tell you it is a much larger battery which won't fit - so ignore them. Ideally, you want a an updated battery that is rated for start/stop applications. The official factory fit Panasonic battery just isn't available online to private buyers in Europe. Nobody seems to do a start-stop rated battery in 053 size, accept Yuasa, but nobody has any stock that I could find. The Vata battery site actually recommends a pretty much standard battery for this car (probably because it is considered a light duty start/stop application).

In the end I went for the best CCA rated 053 battery I could find -which was this Silver graded Yuasa:

YBX5053, HSB053

The ancillary battery is a little trickier as the code on the battery doesn't hit any English language sites and its size is a bit of an oddball. After much searching around, the code on the battery has an equivalent code of 34B17L. So I went for another Yuasa:

YBX3009

Total cost for the two : 85.

When the batteries were delivered I removed the two metal battery clamps from the old units and installed the new ones, and much to my relief, they fit. The leads to the ancillary battery were very small so you have to put a slight angle on it in the clamp for it to fit. Further relief when I found the car started, and no iStop warning lights.

The only issue then is that iStop won't actually work as you have to put it through the battery learning procedure that is a little convoluted, but steps 4-8 here worked for me a treat:

https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda3/20110724140058/html/id011736800500.html

So, for anyone that is facing a large bill from the dealer on these batteries, I hope this helps. I read quite a few forum posts from both Mazda3 and 5 owners that had been told all sorts of things about the battery setup and were basically forced into to paying stealership money - my advice is don't - all you need is the above batteries, a socket set with 10-13mm sockets, a wrench, and some latex gloves and you are golden.
 
The only issue then is that iStop won't actually work as you have to put it through the battery learning procedure that is a little convoluted, but steps 4-8 here worked for me a treat:

https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda3/20110724140058/html/id011736800500.html
Bodgerx,

Thank you for this very informative post - my wife's Mazda 5 with Start Stop has become a serious problem with the battery's going flat just by it not being used - we went abroad for 5 days in Feb and it was completely dead when we returned despite a 100 mile journey to the airport. So action is well overdue - despite her working full time in engineering this is apparently my job to do.

We are being quoted £300 - £400 for battery replacement even from the independents, and that is 10% of the car value. Swapping a battery was one of the most basic tasks covered in my car maintenance course from many many years ago, along with brake pads and wiper blades. But that was before cars became computer controlled.

I have found the Stop Start you listed for £52, and the other for £37; verified that the sizes appear to match what is in the car and the terminals are in the right place.
I have the sockets and I am sure I can dig up some gloves. But I just want to clarify the software reset process....

The instruction sheet you refered to has multiple sections:
Operation after Connecting Negative Battery Cable
Operation after Replacing Main Battery
Operation after Replacing Sub-Battery
Each of those has "Steps 4-8", but only the first of them is a simple process; the other two after replacing the battery all require "Clear applicable DTCs using the M-MDS".

Can you confirm whether this process needs the M-MDS software?

Thanks

Rewolf
 

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