Mazda 3 timing advance mod

So I read the power sticky's and came accross the Timing advance mod which I will post below. Does anyone know exactly how to do this mod? The link provided for it doesn't work and the other link just explains what advancing timing does.

The timing mod...

2. Ignition Timing Advance (Monzta's Timing Mod)
Price: $0
Install: 20-40min (http://**********************/index....5573#msg585573)
Further Reading: http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html
Pros: Take advantage of higher octane, smoother acceleration, more hp/tq, ECU pulls back when engine knocking is detected
Cons: 1.6L has the sensor in a fixed position, Cost of using higher octane, Possible knocking from 87
Peak Power Gains: +6whp/3wtq (using 89 octane and timing vs. 87; your mileage may vary)
What you're basically doing is igniting the fuel mixture a little sooner by moving the slotted crank position sensor to advance the ignition timing. It will still be within factory specs (8 BTDC set at factory according to Service Manual, 10 BTDC according to Service Highlights- that info alone could be why some stock 3s are putting out slightly higher #s than others). This modification only deals with the ignition; the cam is not affected- therefore, the VVT operations/changes will still engage at the same rpms. While 87 octane works with this modification, those who have experienced knocking/pinging use 89 octane to compensate.

I advise you to reset the ECU so the timing curves/maps can be learned quicker. It will most likely stall just once while trying to find the new idle speed (it wont stall again while its idle hunting the next time you reset the ECU). Some users report a slightly lower idle speed after doing this mod, so don't be surprised if it drops lower than you're used to. You might also want to add some fuel injector cleaner every few tanks if youre using 89 or higher.

My observations on different octane after this mod:
I've tried running 87 and it didn't seem to accelerate as fast on the freeway (ECU possibly retarding back the timing to a "safer" level). Burned through 2 gallons pretty fast though. I feel almost no difference between 89 and 91 for my 3, but both allow me to get better performance and smoother/quicker acceleration at the cost of lower gas mileage compared to the 87.

From Monzsta, the mod's originator:
Factory timing is highly conservative, plus the ever-present knock sensor will protect the engine. Worst case scenario is the mod won't show any gains, meaning that the engine is utilizing all the advance it had previous, and the ecm is pulling out the added timing due to spark knock. Being users of this mod ARE reporting gains, it would seem the engine can use more timing. My car hasn't shown any improvement in stock form with 87 vs. 93 octane and it seems to now after advancing the timing, indicating the ecm is finally using the knock sensor to determine what grade of fuel I'm running and adapting it's timing maps to compensate. (as it should if the engine were in a max effort tune from the factory, like a 'Vette's.)

Timing Advance + 89 octane dyno:
@3.5k: +2hp, 4tq
@4.5k: +3hp, 4tq
@5.5k: +4hp, 4tq
@6.0k: +5hp, 4tq
@6.5k: +5hp, 4tq
 
Update.

So I did the timing mod. Very easy to do. It took all of about 10min total. I also did the F2 intake at the same time and the Throttle body ground. What I noticed was... NOTHING! lol Car got louder by virtue of the intake. But I felt no difference.

There is a stop light by my house and I do a drag run and there is this marker that before hand I would hit 55mph from a stop. I decided to test it as I didn't feel any power difference (wasn't expecting much, but something). Light turns green, I rip into it and take it to 7,000 rpm, shift, wheel hop, ripping through 2nd and... 55 mph at that same point. So, whatever. Like I said, I wasn't expecting much, but something would have been nice, a 57 mph or something.
 
:
2008 Mazda3 GX
I drive a 2008 MZ3 2.0L and I made this change and tested for 3 months with 91 Octane and recently reversed the mod. I did notice the change in performance and liked it! But also noticed that the engine/car does not feel as smooth and when I braked hard the steering wheel vibrates (as if the rotors were warped).

I don't want to damage the rotors and pads and I do not want to upgrade the rotors to the same size as the 2.3L since you can only use 16" or 17" rims, and presently I have 15" rims which I will be using for Winter Rims.

Could this be solved by upgrading the engine mounts?
Or something else?
 

concealer404

Race Crapboxes!
:
1990 MX6 GT/1993 Escort GT/1994 MX3 GS/1992 Celica GT
I drive a 2008 MZ3 2.0L and I made this change and tested for 3 months with 91 Octane and recently reversed the mod. I did notice the change in performance and liked it! But also noticed that the engine/car does not feel as smooth and when I braked hard the steering wheel vibrates (as if the rotors were warped).

I don't want to damage the rotors and pads and I do not want to upgrade the rotors to the same size as the 2.3L since you can only use 16" or 17" rims, and presently I have 15" rims which I will be using for Winter Rims.

Could this be solved by upgrading the engine mounts?
Or something else?

So you think that advancing your timing is damaging your brakes and that's why your steering wheel is vibrating?


Just trying to make sure we're on the same page here. :)
 
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