Tonight, I worked to figure out how to arrange my FIAMM Airhorns with the TurboLife FMIC below. I can't go back to the stock horn. It looks like I'll have some cutting to do on the upper grille to get it all to fit.
Since the piping had been cut to incorporate the relocation of the MAF sensor there is a section of pipe missing. Since I don't need the MAF sensor with my Haltech setup, I had this custom pipe made instead so I don't have to modify the existing FMIC piping. I plan to just cap off the recirculation port on the lower cold pipe.
Tonight I got the remaining hot-side pipes bead-rolled, and connected them. I wish the previous owner had not cut them. I'm a little concerned about the coupler being by the manifold. May need a fire sleeve?
I also had to deploy some anti-rub countermeasures to keep my pipes and lines from rubbing holes in other components:
Here you can see towards the bottom where I reused old rubber line to insulate the A/C piping from the hot-side pipe.
Here I used some wire-loom temporarily on the bottom of the water line going over the upper radiator hose to keep it from rubbing a hole in the hose.
I test-fitted cold pipe routing with the new ection I had made for the air temp sensor and the BOV. I'm just waiting on a new flange from Synapse. I also have to go buy new snap ring pliers as the ones I had broke.
I had to cut the line away from the built-in bracket on the A/C condenser, and use a metal one hole strap (wrapped in electrical tape) to secure it to the car's frame. I also secured the bracket holding the A/C drier canister to frame just below its original location with a self-tapping metal screw.
Front bumper is back on. I had a minor wreck last year where someone pulled in front of me, so the bumper is broken as of now. As soon as I can get rolling again, I can get the bumper and front lip fixed.
I've installed the AAC anti-sag bumper brackets. On the driver's side there is no more gap!
You will notice here the bumper is broken due to the wreck, but the AAC bumper brackets still holds the bumper up pretty damn well. If the bumper wasn't broken, there would be no gap just like on the other side.
I also performed a leak-down test on the motor. Now keep in mind the motor has never been started, and the rings haven't seated yet. Every cylinder, at top dead center, tested in the moderate (yellow) range for leakage. I'll test again once the motor is broken in.
Good to see you still loving your MSP.I always liked reading what you'd done to the ride. Your ride aswell as a few of the others from the early days truly inspired me to keep mine alive and moving forward.Mines now rebuilt/forged/pnp'd/.020 over with some big boost soon to come out of the gt28rs. It all sounds so easy, until you do it your first time. Thanks for all the shared info over time.
Goodluck with your continued masterpiece.
protege5,20inch, I was able to get the plug out, and install a new one with some sealant:
New plug with sealant:
ogsp5, I am running two different fans. The first fan on the driver's side is a 1360 CFM 12 inch Spal High Performance, curved blade (that sucker is 3.39 inches in depth). The other fan is a Maradyne 12 inch slim fan. As far as the turbo being clocked down, my current intercooler piping won't allow me to do that.
Over a week ago, I pressure-tested my coolant system. I found that two freeze plugs (one in the front of the block and one in the rear) were leaking. I will have to take a bunch of s*** off to get a good angle on them....
I also was able to send my case off for machining for the ftjandra 5th Gear Plate Mod Transmission Brace. Note, these are the BEFORE pictures.
I was able to get the transaxle put back together (mostly). I was also able replace one of the leaky freeze plugs (and applied sealant to it). Yes, I know the axle nuts need to be banged into the groove to prevent spin-off.