That's an interesting setup. Is that how Fuelab recommends the install? In mine the line from the pump (with inline filter) runs to the fuel rail, then I have a line from the fuel rail to the FPR, and then the bottom port of the FPR goes back to the fuel tank. Your setup obviously works but I've never seen it done that way. I always thought the side ports were "inlets" only.I am using a Fuelab regulator. Left dead ends at the fuel rail, right comes from stock hardline. Bottom overflows to stock hardline.
So under injector type you can select "dead time / flow" or "ID1000" among others? In the Haltech you set injector dead time (versus battery voltage) and flow rate (constant) regardless of the "fuel pressure type," which can either be "constant" or "MAP reference." Honestly, I don't know how much this affects the tune other than you have to pull more fuel than I do below atmospheric manifold pressures. Here's a quick article I found on ID's website: http://injectordynamics.com/articles/fuel-pressure-explained/Adaptronic does have a fuel pressure setting. I haven’t touched this table. Oddly, the fuel pressure and the mode is disabled when I select “deadtime / flow” so I didn’t mess with it. But if I change the injector type to ID1000 I can change the values, switch back to “deadtime / flow” and it stores it. So maybe I just need to try a fixed fuel pressure option instead of manifold ref. You can see in photo the settings are disabled. Anyway, thanks for pointing this out, I have something new to mess with!
It's actually not that bad. I've found the car will actually run under a wide range of circumstances. The annoying part is getting it fine-tuned to where throttle response is optimized. You're also running a factory-style intake and fuel system so you have the advantage of being able to leverage off-the-shelf base maps to start. I literally had nothing to start from other than some suggestions. That's why even though I could initially get the car started it took me so long to get it moving. Over time I got more and more load points closer to where they needed to be so the car would drive under most circumstances. Even now there's still a couple of situations the car doesn't like such as very quick throttle changes or rapid drops in engine speed.All of this reading is making me happy I’m not tuning my own 13b
Most of my start up adjustments are for fuel. I've got some pretty significant enrichment going on when coolant temperature is below 100F. Haltech also has a "post start enrichment" function I'm using. It's a 3D enrichment map that's dependent on coolant temperature and engine running time. Even when fully warmed up I increase fuel by 5% when starting that car. Honestly, I think this is a little rich because I generally have to open the throttle a bit to get the car to "catch."Do you have any timing adjustments for cold water temps? Or a setting for startup? I can’t seem to get a good start without tipping in the throttle (which is in addition to fully open idle control valve). First 30 seconds to minute of running is always rough and it’s not a fuel issue, it’s definitely timing or possibly related to low voltage.