I broke down and bought a new battery. I went with the same size and CCA since it's only $80. Fortunately, the last three times I've started the car it's fired right up after 2-3 seconds of cranking and that's without putting the battery on a charger between runs. It appears 340 CCA is enough after all.Im so jealous. I can't wait to drive mine. After hearing your battery issue while attempting to start, I think imma have to give it a shot again myself.
I think I've hit 6000 RPM once in 1st gear when I wasn't paying attention and I know I've crept slightly above 5000 from time to time. Conventional rotary wisdom appears to indicate 1000 miles for break in, keeping engine speed below 4000 RPM until 500 miles, and then slowly increasing to redline by 1000 RPM. Since my bearings were also new the recommended advice is to double the break-in time. Obviously I haven't followed this to the letter but it's better to be safe than sorry. So far I'm up to 600 miles. Once I hit 1000 miles I'll change the oil again and start going up to 6000 RPM. I'm slowly collecting a list of things to do/address:Pictures are working and everything is looking good. Have you really only went up to 5k rpm? I would be soooo tempted to just run it up at wot a couple times...
Thanks, the fluorescent lighting makes it appear lighter than it really is. Someone pointed out it looks like Tennessee orange and that's definitely not the case.Damn that thing is bright! Looks killer
Figured I would come over here and see how your build was going. Didn’t realize how similar our builds were! Your setup is exactly what I’m considering for my FB (if I ever finish the REPU).
Somehow, I'm getting a lot of reversion in the intake system. Even though the vacuum manifold is well above the ports on the intake I'm still getting fuel/oil in the vacuum lines. So far the little inline filters and check valve is keeping that out of the fuel regulator, MAP sensor, and brake booster but at some point I'm going to need to find a better way. I'm thinking about rigging up a filter that usually intended for air tools. Kind of like a catch can for the vacuum system.
I too thought that it might be the FPR since there is significantly less in the MAP sensor line. However, the line after the filter is dry so it's definitely coming from the engine side. It's hard to tell but the vacuum lines all have at least a slight upward angle to them. I'm going to mess with them a little more when I replace the filters in the near future. I'll have to try the single throttle source. Use one for the brake booster and the other for the FPR and MAP. I had just assumed I would have an unstable vacuum single off a single rotor. If anything, it would be interesting to see if I'm getting different numbers from each rotor.Figured I would come over here and see how your build was going. Didn’t realize how similar our builds were! Your setup is exactly what I’m considering for my FB (if I ever finish the REPU).
I tried to research the fuel in the vacuum line issue but couldn’t come up with any suggestions other than possibly a leaking FPR. I don’t have a vacuum line on mine and yours looks brand new too so i doubt that is an issue.
The only thing I can think of is that it is simply related to the pulses of the rotors allowing a small amount of gassy air to pass between the two intake runners via the vacuum manifold, and from there, the gas can eventually condense in areas that won’t dribble back down to the intake. In your case, maybe tilting the two lines to the MAP and FPR upward so any liquid will always roll back into the manifold, and then back down into the intake. I can’t tell if those hoses always maintain an upward path but if they don’t, give that a try and check back after a few hundred miles to see if the amount of fuel left over has improved. Another option could be to only take vacuum readings from a single throttle body. On my truck, the brake booster was only connected to the rear rotor secondary port. On the later gen RX7s, I believe vacuum is read before the separate runners split so you don’t have a situation where gas filled air can move between runners.
Yeah, this is what I was just thinking. I'm tuning by VE with a MAP reference. The Haltech actually can tune by VE with TPS as well but I'm not doing that anymore. If the MAP sensor is getting a signal from both rotors then the FPR and brake booster are a part of that same system even if they are only drawing from, say, the rear rotor. No matter what both throttle bodies will be connected via the MAP sensor lines.If you are trying to do a VE tune instead of TPS you will need the Map connected to both. No way around that, however the brake booster and FPR aren’t as sensitive to that. I say, get it dialed in, drain the hoses, then rev the piss out of the motor and cut the ignition every time you shut it off. That should help clear out the lines and ensure fuel isn’t resting in the intake.
What do you have right now - just an open port on the center iron or oil filler tube? I've thought about trying to rig up a PCV system as well, but like you said it would require extra ports separate from the vacuum system. I mainly want to do this so I can reincorporate a charcoal canister into my system again so the garage doesn't reek of fuel all the time.I haven’t done anything about crank case pressure either. I had planned to use vacuum to pull it out, but would need yet another port separate from everything else...otherwise dirty crank case air is gonna dirty up all the vacuum lines I have. Maybe I will work on something when I get a real catch can installed.