KingOfSpades' "Build Thread
- Thread starter 31N007
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31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
http://1drv.ms/1f1iVTq
here's what the close up of the struts look like. Esnave, I'd say it's probably better to look for something a wee bit weaker than the strut on the Jeep but the same size. 19.880" extended length by the looks of things. as far as pressure needed, I don't know quite what to look for. Maybe I can make something to test force needed to compress the strut?
here's what the close up of the struts look like. Esnave, I'd say it's probably better to look for something a wee bit weaker than the strut on the Jeep but the same size. 19.880" extended length by the looks of things. as far as pressure needed, I don't know quite what to look for. Maybe I can make something to test force needed to compress the strut?
Maybe. I have no idea what would be used to measure that, but I'm sure you could figure it out. Maybe using a standard scale would work, but it would be pretty tough to compress it, right? You'd need to have a cinderblock on it or something, but I think it could be done.
31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
it's that or put some weights on it until it starts to compress?? What i did was create the mount that attached to the hood hinge and then i let the strut sit against the screw in the fender. i pushed the strut to the metal so it doesn't accidentally pop off and then i slowly closed the hood. if it's really hard, then look for something weaker. for the strut i have, i need to open the hood about halfway before it starts to actually support it but that's better than i would have expected from something that's thrown together.
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
http://1drv.ms/1jtjkfJ
Installed OBX header the weekend prior to this past one. Now I'm chasing an exhaust leak.
As far as plans for this summer...
Keeping the P5 and getting new summers. Those should run me ~$400-500 depending. New hood and paint (for the bits worth doing) is ~500 again. My friend approached me and asked if I wanted to auto-x the thing and I said why the hell not, so she's going out this summer. I'll need to find a set of 16" rims and lightly used (or new) auto-x tires. That'll be another $600 easily. Then, a rear sway bar, brake pads/ rotors, and passenger motor mount (thing is well beyond gone) and I'm calling it quits.(Didn't I already say that once?)
MS3 is on the backburner as the 80 mile round trip is fine, but the 1.5 hours each way in rush hour is going to be the end of me wanting to drive a stick (kidding of course). I'll probably look south for an MS3 if I do get one as I'd like to try and hold true to the plan of having a summer and winter car. The P5 will serve as winter/ autox as it's low power and light so probably better to learn on. Plus parts are cheaper...
That's all I got for now. I did a comp check today expecting to be well low... Turns out I managed 170-175-175-17# so I'm within spec, which is great for me. Now leakdown is another story...
Installed OBX header the weekend prior to this past one. Now I'm chasing an exhaust leak.
As far as plans for this summer...
Keeping the P5 and getting new summers. Those should run me ~$400-500 depending. New hood and paint (for the bits worth doing) is ~500 again. My friend approached me and asked if I wanted to auto-x the thing and I said why the hell not, so she's going out this summer. I'll need to find a set of 16" rims and lightly used (or new) auto-x tires. That'll be another $600 easily. Then, a rear sway bar, brake pads/ rotors, and passenger motor mount (thing is well beyond gone) and I'm calling it quits.(Didn't I already say that once?)
MS3 is on the backburner as the 80 mile round trip is fine, but the 1.5 hours each way in rush hour is going to be the end of me wanting to drive a stick (kidding of course). I'll probably look south for an MS3 if I do get one as I'd like to try and hold true to the plan of having a summer and winter car. The P5 will serve as winter/ autox as it's low power and light so probably better to learn on. Plus parts are cheaper...
That's all I got for now. I did a comp check today expecting to be well low... Turns out I managed 170-175-175-17# so I'm within spec, which is great for me. Now leakdown is another story...
Looks like you had quite the Mazda meet going on. And now I'm really wanting to go to some meets.....Not even to show mine off (there's nothing to show right now lol), just to see other modded rides. Maybe I'll have something to show by the end of the summer.
That sucks about waiting for the MS3, but at least you're still finding love for the P5. I don't blame ya on the part about the commute though. I might be commuting for an internship this summer, and the occasional trip to the Cities makes me hate having a stick when I hit rush hour. As for the mods, you never stop. Once you start, you always find more stuff to do.
That sucks about waiting for the MS3, but at least you're still finding love for the P5. I don't blame ya on the part about the commute though. I might be commuting for an internship this summer, and the occasional trip to the Cities makes me hate having a stick when I hit rush hour. As for the mods, you never stop. Once you start, you always find more stuff to do.
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
Found tires for $300 shipped, unmounted though. Sourced a local set of 16s- hopefully seller gets back to me.
Rear sway I am on the lookout for. Hopefully I can source one soon. Would like to install more things.
I really am beginning to like the car again. It's going to be a stress reliever this summer, so I have more of a reason to treat her well.
Rear sway I am on the lookout for. Hopefully I can source one soon. Would like to install more things.
I really am beginning to like the car again. It's going to be a stress reliever this summer, so I have more of a reason to treat her well.
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
Had new tires mounted. They ride great. New brakes up front give me more confidence too.
New trailing arms look nice. There's a small difference, but probably not worth the price.
I have a clunk from the rear now. I remember reading that folks said the trailing arms lead to a clunk, so I might switch back to stock just to see.
I also found out that I had next to no oil in the engine... Switched to synthetic recently and I just checked tonight to see. No oil on the dipstick.
Funny thing is the car saw 6500 RPM as we tried to hit 60 twenty times... OOPS. Nothing spun that I can tell. Might drain the oil and see. Still need to add more synthetic in. I'm furious I let it get that bad.
New trailing arms look nice. There's a small difference, but probably not worth the price.
I have a clunk from the rear now. I remember reading that folks said the trailing arms lead to a clunk, so I might switch back to stock just to see.
I also found out that I had next to no oil in the engine... Switched to synthetic recently and I just checked tonight to see. No oil on the dipstick.
Funny thing is the car saw 6500 RPM as we tried to hit 60 twenty times... OOPS. Nothing spun that I can tell. Might drain the oil and see. Still need to add more synthetic in. I'm furious I let it get that bad.
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
I went to the west side of the state yesterday and came back today. All in all around 200 miles I think? Checked oil and it seems fine right now. I was at 70-80 the whole way there, 3.5-4k rpms. I did smell a bit of oil, or what i think may have been oil.
I heard synthetic isn't good for seals, so maybe some old seal got fried and it's leaking out of the rear main seal. I can try and pop the starter off to see if that's the case. If so, I'll be taking things apart again. Lol. It could also be blowing past the piston rings, which would stink but it could be because of that...
I'll let y'all know what the scoop is when I dig deeper. I may just make the switch back to the oil I was using, as I didn't have as bad an issue with the oil disappearing.
Good news is that the clunk wasn't coming from the rear end. It was me being a n00b and not tightening the passenger brake caliper bolts down all the way. Fixed that and now it's good again.
I can see sunlight through the trunk now though
Meh, more spots for water to drain out of... oh wait, it shouldn't be in the car in the first place. Lol
I heard synthetic isn't good for seals, so maybe some old seal got fried and it's leaking out of the rear main seal. I can try and pop the starter off to see if that's the case. If so, I'll be taking things apart again. Lol. It could also be blowing past the piston rings, which would stink but it could be because of that...
I'll let y'all know what the scoop is when I dig deeper. I may just make the switch back to the oil I was using, as I didn't have as bad an issue with the oil disappearing.
Good news is that the clunk wasn't coming from the rear end. It was me being a n00b and not tightening the passenger brake caliper bolts down all the way. Fixed that and now it's good again.
I can see sunlight through the trunk now though
Meh, more spots for water to drain out of... oh wait, it shouldn't be in the car in the first place. LolHaha I do believe it should be the other way around..... but you're not alone there. I think mine has some spots too cuz I can hear the rain on the road from my back passenger wheel well (not the worst well for rust tho). But at least you caught your brake caliper issue before the caliper came off completely!
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31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
Fried. Chicken fried rice.There's bits of the cat rattling around in the exhaust so I need to pop a section off.
Reinstalled intake and cranked car with ignition unplugged and fuel pump relay out. No issues. Primed fuel pump and injectors multiple times and no leak. I'm hesitant to see if the few bolts I wasn't able to tighten to spec will cause issues down the road... (May be threading the intake mani, may be pulling the bolts apart- I'm not sure which one yet)
When I have exhaust mani gasket and the springs to hold the Jpipe to the rest of the exhaust system, I shall fire it up and let it warm up. Fingers crossed that there are no issues, otherwise off everything comes again. TROLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL (hopefully that doesn't happen)
Evan, I actually had an OBX exhaust mani on there, but it is leaking near the beginning of the runner. The welds are notoriously crap, but for $15, I figured why the hell not.
Reinstalled intake and cranked car with ignition unplugged and fuel pump relay out. No issues. Primed fuel pump and injectors multiple times and no leak. I'm hesitant to see if the few bolts I wasn't able to tighten to spec will cause issues down the road... (May be threading the intake mani, may be pulling the bolts apart- I'm not sure which one yet)
When I have exhaust mani gasket and the springs to hold the Jpipe to the rest of the exhaust system, I shall fire it up and let it warm up. Fingers crossed that there are no issues, otherwise off everything comes again. TROLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL (hopefully that doesn't happen)
Evan, I actually had an OBX exhaust mani on there, but it is leaking near the beginning of the runner. The welds are notoriously crap, but for $15, I figured why the hell not.
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
Yeah I don't have a leak so that's good
I am still curious to where the oil is going. I will be picking up a PCV valve (damn I feel cheap for not having already done so) after I get back from Lincoln, Nebraska for SAE. It'll be Sunday then.
I might be looking at a CWP MS3 after competition- if it's still for sale. I've got to replace the clutch on the P5 which isn't something I look forward to, but when I do that, I can check the rear main seal and other bits to make sure there are no other leaks.
My friend just got a car with spare parts- two blocks among them. I wonder if he wouldn't mind me cleaning one of them up and replacing it with mine... (scored cylinder walls might be messing with my piston rings)
I am still curious to where the oil is going. I will be picking up a PCV valve (damn I feel cheap for not having already done so) after I get back from Lincoln, Nebraska for SAE. It'll be Sunday then.
I might be looking at a CWP MS3 after competition- if it's still for sale. I've got to replace the clutch on the P5 which isn't something I look forward to, but when I do that, I can check the rear main seal and other bits to make sure there are no other leaks.
My friend just got a car with spare parts- two blocks among them. I wonder if he wouldn't mind me cleaning one of them up and replacing it with mine... (scored cylinder walls might be messing with my piston rings)
31N007
31N007
- :
- Mazda Protege5
I wonder how fun rallycrossing would be...
New plans (as of today):
MS6 DD
P5 backup/ rallycross.
Highway speeds/rpms have lead to an increase in oil consumption- due to the scoring on the cylinder walls. This doesn't phase the car when I'm doing 40 but at 70+ as well as high rpms, I know it's the issue.
No point in going all out to replace the engine in a car that's rusted as badly as mine. I'm thinking I'll try and start off in SF and see how I do/ how much fun it is. If not, I can go and autocross the bastard.
If I get an MS6, the P5 will become redundant, but to keep it useful, I'll throw that around as opposed to the MS#. Keep the nice car nice. For now.
New plans (as of today):
MS6 DD
P5 backup/ rallycross.
Highway speeds/rpms have lead to an increase in oil consumption- due to the scoring on the cylinder walls. This doesn't phase the car when I'm doing 40 but at 70+ as well as high rpms, I know it's the issue.
No point in going all out to replace the engine in a car that's rusted as badly as mine. I'm thinking I'll try and start off in SF and see how I do/ how much fun it is. If not, I can go and autocross the bastard.
If I get an MS6, the P5 will become redundant, but to keep it useful, I'll throw that around as opposed to the MS#. Keep the nice car nice. For now.
