Is the Signature the best all-around car for under $33,000?

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2019 CX-5 Signature
I think out the door price makes the best sense for new vehicle pricing discussions.
I understand that USA States, Counties, Cities etc... have different tax rates, but including those factors, other fees etc... just makes pricing comparison discussions confusing. OTD pricing may not be a perfect way to compare pricing, but I think it is the most sensible number to use.
It only makes sense for those in your area. The only way to truly compare across the country, is to use negotiated price and list all other expenses separately. Too many variables in OTD prices.
 
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2016 CX-5 (white), 2019 CX-5(red), 2019 Miata (white)
It only makes sense for those in your area. The only way to truly compare across the country, is to use negotiated price and list all other expenses separately. Too many variables in OTD prices.
I figure 95% of the USA's population does have sales tax. And for a CX-5 purchase the difference in sales tax rates probably amounts to between $100 and $500. So for threads about pricing I am fine using OTD.

I understand if others prefer detailed lists of options, accessories, fees, taxes etc...
 
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2019 CX-5 Signature
I figure 95% of the USA's population does have sales tax. And for a CX-5 purchase the difference in sales tax rates probably amounts to between $100 and $500. So for threads about pricing I am fine using OTD.
I understand if others prefer detailed lists of options, accessories, fees, taxes etc...
It's not all about taxes. What's your issue with listing as much data as possible? "OTD" pricing will still be seen, just not as ambiguous. Most new vehicles in the US are purchased by buyers that have a trade-in. A trade-in can affect more than just negotiated price. It can also lower your new vehicle taxable amount.

All that said... This is not the pricing thread, so we can move along. The CX-5 Signature was our choice between CUV's priced up top $45k. Couldn't be happier after almost 20 months of ownership!
 
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Phoenix
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2020 CX5 signature
A trade-in can affect more than just negotiated price. It can also lower your new vehicle taxable amount.
^^^Best point yet. If I were to trade in my Infiniti, then I just save up to $3,000 on my "OTD" which doesn't help the next guy who says "Hey, hal2 just paid $3,000 less than my dealer wants to charge me.
 
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yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
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Plano, Texas, USA
Everything you said is the exact reason that OTD makes the least sense. If you and I pay the same sales price for a car, and your state has 10% sales tax and mine has none, then your OTD price on a $30,000 car is $3,000 more than mine. How in the world is comparing OTD prices even close to being "the most sensible number to use"?

You're logic is truly baffling. You even said "have different tax rates, but including those factors, other fees etc... just makes pricing comparison discussions confusing." - So why would you use OTD rather than before TTL to compare prices?
Agreed. It’s those different sales tax rates which make big difference. Some states, such as Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire, and Oregon, have no sales tax; some have full sales tax rate including added local taxes such as in California; some like in Texas pays only same state-level sales tax rate no matter where you live. There’re too many variables on sales tax, title, and license which affect the OTD price and those are not negotiable. The same on doc fee which shouldn’t be included in the car purchasing price discussion. As for MSRP, it should be the final price printed on Mazda’s factory window sticker including shipping and handling. Those dealer printed price stickers with their add-ons doesn’t count.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I figure 95% of the USA's population does have sales tax. And for a CX-5 purchase the difference in sales tax rates probably amounts to between $100 and $500. So for threads about pricing I am fine using OTD.

I understand if others prefer detailed lists of options, accessories, fees, taxes etc...
You under-estimated the power of sales tax. For a new $30K vehicle, in San Jose the sales tax rate is 10% ~ 10.25%, $3,000 ~ $3,750. But in Dallas the rate is 6.25%, $1,875. And in Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire, and Oregon, you pay $0!
 

Davidiot

Ballistic Reentry Vehicle
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2020 CX-5 GT PP
The same on doc fee which shouldn’t be included in the car purchasing price discussion.
Why exclude the doc fee? The doc fee is a line item number on the sales contract that can be state-limited to $75, or it can be an unregulated amount upwards of $1,000 that lets a dealer ‘hide’ their true price on the car by getting to quote an artificially low price (when compared to a competing dealer with a lower doc fee).

It’s NOT representative of a fixed cost and it’s not a government imposed tax or fee.

While you can’t “negotiate the doc fee” you certainly can negotiate the total dealer price (which includes their doc fee).

Doc fee should definitely be included in the pre-TTL price for comparison purposes, in my opinion.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Why exclude the doc fee? The doc fee is a line item number on the sales contract that can be state-limited to $75, or it can be an unregulated amount upwards of $1,000 that lets a dealer ‘hide’ their true price on the car by getting to quote an artificially low price (when compared to a competing dealer with a lower doc fee).

It’s NOT representative of a fixed cost and it’s not a government imposed tax or fee.

While you can’t “negotiate the doc fee” you certainly can negotiate the total dealer price (which includes their doc fee).

Doc fee should definitely be included in the pre-TTL price for comparison purposes, in my opinion.
When we compare the car purchasing price In the US, we should compare something only with a standard pricing so that there’s no confusion for others on the discount percentage. Everything with non-standard pricing including doc fees and dealer-installed accessories, and non-negotiable items such as TTL should not get involved for comparison, as there’s no standard to compare. Those can be negotiated are your own responsibility to find and negotiate with the selling dealer.
 
When we compare the car purchasing price In the US, we should compare something only with a standard pricing so that there’s no confusion for others on the discount percentage. Everything with non-standard pricing including doc fees and dealer-installed accessories, and non-negotiable items such as TTL should not get involved for comparison, as there’s no standard to compare. Those can be negotiated are your own responsibility to find and negotiate with the selling dealer.
Disagree, why is it ok to negotiate off MSRP and count that but dealer fee add-on should be left out cause it might be negotiated?

Mazda offers its standard rebates that people can quality for, dealers then can take some more off the price to make things more attractive. But as previously pointed out they slam you with a $700+ mandatory dealer fee....negating any additional savings.

I like the OTD pricing, shows the rebates applied and dealer fees.
 
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2019 Mazda CX-5 GT Reserve
To each their own. Whatever it's takes to make each purchaser satisfied with their decision. There is an ultimate final number that you are going to write a check for or finance. I personally want to be able to do an apples to apples comparison between deals. That means I want ALL the itemized details involved in how the dealer arrived at MSRP -> OTD.

I emailed a number of dealers. I specified the exact vehicle I wanted & asked them to provide the price as MSRP minus dealer discount minus all rebates I qualify for plus itemized dealer fees & paperwork plus state sales tax. The final result is OTD. If the dealer couldn't or wouldn't provide that level of detail, I wrote them off. I also gave each dealer their own opportunity to provide their best deal, not "what other prices did you get?"
 
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Phoenix
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2020 CX5 signature
Disagree, why is it ok to negotiate off MSRP and count that but dealer fee add-on should be left out cause it might be negotiated?

Mazda offers its standard rebates that people can quality for, dealers then can take some more off the price to make things more attractive. But as previously pointed out they slam you with a $700+ mandatory dealer fee....negating any additional savings.

I like the OTD pricing, shows the rebates applied and dealer fees.
You're almost there. We agree that price comparisons should be after rebate, discounts, ind include dealer fees and and such. But what we are all saying is that is should not include taxes, registration and licence which do not go to the dealer. OTD means EVERYTHING which is not a good comparo. When net price before TTL only.
 

Kaps

Contributor
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CX-5 Touring 2016.5
The more I think about my 16 touring purchase - the more I am amazed what I pulled off and some of it - even I was ignorant about.
My purchase was 23911 (MSRP was 27400) and OTD was 25800 - on which I had negotiated. Adding 1400ish on taxes - I paid only 400 extra for window tint + 1 OC which I never used and one accessory ($75) and title and documentation. Not bad heh.

Signature at 18% off MSRP = $30500 is a good car but by no means the best under 35K. First off the 2.5T is an old engine (2016)- cuts power too frequently upon repeated stomps and is a great engine for CX-9. Stuffed in CX5 as it was whats available. Economy wise - Mazda has just gone backwards since 2017. CX30 as economical as the old CX5 despite being smaller. CX5 turbo close to CX-9 in mpg. If the signature had 270ish hp and similar torque - sprinted to 60 in 5.7-5.8 seconds that would have been ideal.
 
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North of Toronto
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2019 CX-9 Sig
While it's important to make these comparisons fairly, not sure it changes the answer IMO, which is YES it is best overall, at either price.

What is a real complaint someone could have? I know a guy who has bunch of heavy products in his trunk for work at all times, he prefers the separate trunk space for safety in case of rollover. I suppose then one would need a Legacy or Altima to keep AWD and space.

Ride height perhaps is issue for someone with mobility limitations. Not that it is tall, but it's taller than the same Legacy or Altima.

Need for AWD changes answer a lot. If you are on pavement at all times in south, and don't need it, perhaps that changes the answer. Accord? Mazda 6?

Some might say resale value or longevity of Mazdas is issue. Some. But that really is not direct issue with car, in that someone who drove a CX5 for a year would still have a hard time finding a better ride for under 40k.
 
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