iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread
- Thread starter iracemine
- Start date
So now it was my turn. Like I said not a bolt on. The machinist did the other side now I had to do the other. First I bought a spindle at the local junk yard, then switched that with my daily driver since I just put in new bearings last summer. Then pop out the little lug nuts and then start grinding down the hub. The hats are radius in the inside so you have to radius the hub.
Then notch the spindle a bit to fit in the caliper nice and close.
add some spacers to center over rotor, and a 45* npt fitting. pull off the old and install the new stuff, and walla...
Next off is the rear brakes. I bought the matching 4 pot dynapros for the rear. I dropped them off already with a junk yard spindle and a autozone rotor. Hopefully there is no grinding this time, but what ever. Here is a pick of the rear stock and dynapro pads next to each other. You can tell with the stocks how hot my brakes would get.
Then notch the spindle a bit to fit in the caliper nice and close.
add some spacers to center over rotor, and a 45* npt fitting. pull off the old and install the new stuff, and walla...
Next off is the rear brakes. I bought the matching 4 pot dynapros for the rear. I dropped them off already with a junk yard spindle and a autozone rotor. Hopefully there is no grinding this time, but what ever. Here is a pick of the rear stock and dynapro pads next to each other. You can tell with the stocks how hot my brakes would get.
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Between the brakes and removal of a few unnecessary safety items I lost about 32 pounds from the car. Wich is fine, but between me getting fat and the car having a front bumper I am still heavier than i was in 2012. So after actual data from Jacki Chan I decided to take out the sound deadening. It was in total about 19 pounds, I know it might be more but I missed a couple spots and some was already removed for the roll bar installation. And I had tried to do this with out dry ice so there is a spot from me testing it out. But with the dry ice it was extremely easy and quick.
Someone else said that these are 6lbs each... why lie?
and some random other stuff
And Finally the rear brakes are done too with the dynapro wilwoods. Just the four pots, and oem cyro rotors. I went with the slotted for fixing a problem not performance. You never gain braking power by removing braking surface. However it will cut off any glazing that may occur to to improper brake temps to brake pad material. You can see in the background that the raybestos get white hot soooo....
Had to once again cut into the spindle. This time however not so bad. I think if I bought the 11" msp rotor I would not have to at all and they would still fit into the 15" wheel, but I am not sure I would need the larger rotor nor the weight gain. Very said to see the emergency brake go away as I use that thing all the time. But a weight loss I still need to weigh in. Now getting the car out of the trailer at night will be a two person job, or just need to make sure there is a nice long space behind it.
Someone else said that these are 6lbs each... why lie?
and some random other stuff
And Finally the rear brakes are done too with the dynapro wilwoods. Just the four pots, and oem cyro rotors. I went with the slotted for fixing a problem not performance. You never gain braking power by removing braking surface. However it will cut off any glazing that may occur to to improper brake temps to brake pad material. You can see in the background that the raybestos get white hot soooo....
Had to once again cut into the spindle. This time however not so bad. I think if I bought the 11" msp rotor I would not have to at all and they would still fit into the 15" wheel, but I am not sure I would need the larger rotor nor the weight gain. Very said to see the emergency brake go away as I use that thing all the time. But a weight loss I still need to weigh in. Now getting the car out of the trailer at night will be a two person job, or just need to make sure there is a nice long space behind it.
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ok brakes feel great, and got the car to the tuner to make it perfect. (lost 4hp) But I have a question about lightweight shockproof red line gear oil. How long does this stuff last in a road racing manual trans? I know it has calcium in it to make it "shock proof", does it wear out? or just get mushed around over and over again?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
Honestly I would probably change it for every session.
so as superly busy as it is at this time of year at the shop, I got a second to call red line... The nerd called me back a said that there is no calcium but a gel based moly that never breaks down. And with my stats I should be servicing the manual trans every two years. And thats just to get the particles and slug out of the trans.
Also, he said that I should be using mt-90 and that my trans should shift a ton better. So I feel that the reason I blew my syncros out before is by shifting like an ass.
Also the wilwood rotors I got where really really warped, so I had my brand new rotors turned and I will re test them out before the hpde day/memorial day.
Also, he said that I should be using mt-90 and that my trans should shift a ton better. So I feel that the reason I blew my syncros out before is by shifting like an ass.
Also the wilwood rotors I got where really really warped, so I had my brand new rotors turned and I will re test them out before the hpde day/memorial day.
Glad I did not buy the msp rear sized rotors. Had too much rear brake bias. had to turn the brake bias knob almost completely off for the rears. So I would guess I could go to a weaker pad and even everything out. But in the end they are even now with the bias knob having some room to move. And the car stops hard all weekend with absolutely no bleeding or fading or anything!
Did forget the GoPro so no vids. Which is sad because while I was figuring out the bias knob I spun super violently twice in the same corner and both times I high centered myself on the inside rumble strips. Good thing I had on the old tires as they are pretty square now.
Since I stopped the PVC from entering the intake I found that I need a catch can badly. I guess I have some bad blow by but why does it have a ton of oil in it I will have to find out. Here is a pic of what I came up with for the rest of the weekend.
The weekend also brought a tornado just north of the track and brought us sideways rain for like 3 mins tops, but downed a tree right next to the pavilion where we where eating free BBQ dinner and drinking free beer. I thought nothing of it because I tarped down my car. Nope. Not good enough. I got back and the tarp was ripped off and the inside was soaked with standing water. Both ecu and j&s where soaked. Drivers seat was soaked. spent like a hour drying it out in the pitch black night. And some more in the am but everything was fine just a wet butt. Pic of the car drying out.
Going to list the car on some racing web sites. Don't know what I can get for it yet but this car is very consistent, and reliable. A good turn key car.but with the extra time I had not rebuilding the motor or trans or doing body work I was able to start doing stuff to the house like this (more pics on the home improvement thread)
Did forget the GoPro so no vids. Which is sad because while I was figuring out the bias knob I spun super violently twice in the same corner and both times I high centered myself on the inside rumble strips. Good thing I had on the old tires as they are pretty square now.
Since I stopped the PVC from entering the intake I found that I need a catch can badly. I guess I have some bad blow by but why does it have a ton of oil in it I will have to find out. Here is a pic of what I came up with for the rest of the weekend.
The weekend also brought a tornado just north of the track and brought us sideways rain for like 3 mins tops, but downed a tree right next to the pavilion where we where eating free BBQ dinner and drinking free beer. I thought nothing of it because I tarped down my car. Nope. Not good enough. I got back and the tarp was ripped off and the inside was soaked with standing water. Both ecu and j&s where soaked. Drivers seat was soaked. spent like a hour drying it out in the pitch black night. And some more in the am but everything was fine just a wet butt. Pic of the car drying out.
Going to list the car on some racing web sites. Don't know what I can get for it yet but this car is very consistent, and reliable. A good turn key car.but with the extra time I had not rebuilding the motor or trans or doing body work I was able to start doing stuff to the house like this (more pics on the home improvement thread)
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Guess I'm not the first person with this oily vapor problem.
http://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=48319
http://www.club323f.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=48319
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Nice link on the catch can elimination mod.........................
If I still have the car in the off season I will toss some stainless steel pads and drill a hole in the bottom of the right side vent duct. Till then, and per competition rules I was supposed to have a catch can for any vents open to the atmosphere. So for $34 on ebay and $3 at ace I have all three vents covered. Also I remounted my tire machine in the garage instead of downstairs on that dumb pallet. Hoosiers inbound!
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Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
I wonder if that's got anything to do with when it got wet?
