installed resistors for turn signals but still hyperflash??

T

taimysho0

Member
:
mazda cx5
hello

was wondering if anyone has installed led switchbacks for their turn signals. i just did mine today and installed the resistor as shown below in pic, however i still have hyperflashing. do i need to put resistors on the rears also?

i connected the yellow (positive) and black (negative) to the resistor and made sure the wires were tight and snug by trying to pull them out after clinching them and they seem to be okay


thanks for any suggestions

<a href="http://s130.photobucket.com/user/taimysho0/media/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p242/taimysho0/20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140215_163949_zps765e130d.jpg"/></a>
 
Measure the resistance of the stock bulb with an Ohm meter and then try to mimic that with a resistor in series, not parallel with the bulb.
 
thanks for the note, sorry but what do you mean by "resistor in series, not parallel with the bulb"? im a noob
 
Try hooking up the resistor on the positive side of the bulb only and see what happens.
 
Ummm hahahahaha. Simple fix... Wrong wire... The brown and white is the positive you are crimping for. The one you crimped is for the parking light LOL.
 
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V8toilet said:
Measure the resistance of the stock bulb with an Ohm meter and then try to mimic that with a resistor in series, not parallel with the bulb.
Click to expand...

No! That statement is incorrect. The resistor MUST be in parallel with the bulb to emulate the load (current draw) of a filament bulb.
 
In series will double the resistance (if using a resistor of the same value of the bulb). Additionally, don't do this unless you have calculated the wattage of dissipation across the resistor to see if it will heat up and burn. I can't imagine the current draw to be large but if it was me, i would do the math. Use a resistor that is rated at 10x required wattage.

Third, doubling the resistance will reduce the current by half, possibly preventing the led from lighting.

Fourth, make sure you've got a good DMM and you are sure your batteries are good and the load presented by your DMM doesn't affect the circuit readings.

In parallel will increase the current 2x, making the light brighter, and also reducing the lifespan of the led component.

Why are people doing this mod to their cx5? Edit, i see not. Installing leds for turn signals, replacing non-leds that came with the car...
 
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Simple foundations of ohms law and V=IR again.

I did it because I hate the amber corners as parking light next to my white tech pack Bi-xenon. At the same time, I want to retain amber lights for signaling. That is where the dual color switch back LED units come in. White parking light LED's to match with the bi-xenons, and amber LED's for signaling. Plus, I like the crisp response of LED's in comparison to incandescent. I am in the process of converting my brake lights and rear signals to LED's as well. It won't look any better than incandescent bulbs, but it is for the response time. A properly set up LED will reach full luminosity AT LEAST 250ms quicker than an incandescent. When a vehicle is traveling at 88ft per second at 60MPH, that 250ms matters when it comes to braking. A car stopping 250ms earlier traveling at 88ft per second equals to more than the length of an average car saved.

Of course, all these work as a system. That is where my Fluke DMM comes in :)
 
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SayNoToPistons said:
Simple foundations of ohms law and V=IR again.

I did it because I hate the amber corners as parking light next to my white tech pack Bi-xenon. At the same time, I want to retain amber lights for signaling. That is where the dual color switch back LED units come in. White parking light LED's to match with the bi-xenons, and amber LED's for signaling. Plus, I like the crisp response of LED's in comparison to incandescent. I am in the process of converting my brake lights and rear signals to LED's as well. It won't look any better than incandescent bulbs, but it is for the response time. A properly set up LED will reach full luminosity AT LEAST 250ms quicker than an incandescent. When a vehicle is traveling at 88ft per second at 60MPH, that 250ms matters when it comes to braking. A car stopping 250ms earlier traveling at 88ft per second equals to more than the length of an average car saved.

Of course, all these works as a system. That is where my Fluke DMM comes in :)
Click to expand...

That's why I like the euro lights; they don't have that orange reflector. Maybe one day I'll open it and remove it.
 
ok i connected to brown/white wire for positive and it seems to be working. any one know if adding these resistors will void my warranty? im thinking of removing them before i go to dealer just in case
 
taimysho0 said:
another thing i noticed is that when the blinkers are on, the led switches from amber to bright white to amber to bright white. is this expected? in the youtube video below on an frs, the switchbacks change from amber to no light to amber to no light


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4pY5lnJiWg
Click to expand...

They are just a different type of switchback. The amber to white instead of amber to off make it harder to tell that the blinker is on.
 
taimysho0 said:
ok i connected to brown/white wire for positive and it seems to be working. any one know if adding these resistors will void my warranty? im thinking of removing them before i go to dealer just in case
Click to expand...

They shouldn't unless something electrical goes wrong. If that does happen, you can just remove the lights and resistors. Hence the reason we use crimps.
 
taimysho0 said:
another thing i noticed is that when the blinkers are on, the led switches from amber to bright white to amber to bright white. is this expected? in the youtube video below on an frs, the switchbacks change from amber to no light to amber to no light


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4pY5lnJiWg
Click to expand...

You have the "TYPE 1" switchback. "TYPE 2" adds the feature of pause for white during signaling. I suggest going for a type 2 since I've seen cheap type 1's in person and can hardly telling if they're signaling from a distance.
 
crimps? do you have a link to where i can get these for our cars or any instructions on how to install them? thanks!
 
taimysho0 said:
crimps? do you have a link to where i can get these for our cars or any instructions on how to install them? thanks!
Click to expand...
well the clamps that came with your kit are wire tap connectors
C531352-63.jpg
tap%20connector-500x500.jpg


; the red clamp you use to tap into the wire already there.

a wire crimp connector
41wHgPHEXCL._SL500_AA300_PIcountsize-15,TopRight,0,0_AA300_SH20_.jpg
would be used to just straight connect two wires together, like if you decided to hard wire the resistor in, or if you accidentally cut a wire and needed to reconnect it. they are cheap on ebay or you can get them at any autozone type shop. imo if you have having a lot of trouble have a audio shop do it. otherwise it's a relatively harmless learning experience which can be reversed just by taking the connector off the wire, or at the worst will result in a wire that has to be repaired with a crimp
 
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