Hubs and bearings

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2008 Mazda5 GT
Planning to do front bearings and figure may as well put in new pair of hubs (b/c rust and runout). Main driver is new bearings b/c I want to reduce road noise. Anyone here replaced their hubs and/or bearings? What parts did you use and whats your experience? Part number would be great.

Thanks.
 
Anyone here replaced their hubs and/or bearings?

Not on a 5.

I've replaced rear hubs on a Honda Civic when they got noisy. It's a relatively easy job, not much harder than replacing rear rotors, but I hated putting on the Chinese cheapo hubs available from the local auto parts store. I just have a feeling they won't last long, but the original Honda hubs didn't either.

I've yet to replace front bearings on front wheel drive cars, I've have installed CV drive shafts though. From what little I researched I'd have to use a hydraulic press to get the front bearings out and back in.
 
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What brands did you like/not like?


I am debating if I should just pull the knuckles and just bring the new hubs and bearings to a shop and let them press it in (I don’t have a dress). OR If I should buy the DIY universal bearing kit and do it at home. Anyone have an estimate on cost? I’m kinda tired of servicing cars TBH but I won’t mind having the tools :p
 
What brands did you like/not like?

Hard to say the brand. What I ended up with was the available Chinese built hubs from Auto Zone as I was doing an "emergency" job on the Honda. The new hubs are quiet, but the castings are not as "complete" as the Honda original.

I am debating if I should just pull the knuckles and just bring the new hubs and bearings to a shop and let them press it in (I don’t have a press).

The company I work for has a hydraulic press we use for rebuilding large vacuum pumps and blowers. I figure I'll use that press if I have to do a front bearing job.

I’m kinda tired of servicing cars TBH but I won’t mind having the tools :p

Me too. I only do it because I have 4 kids (16 to 24) and they keep me financially grounded. :D

I'll admit, I don't do clutch jobs anymore. I'd rather pay the $1100.00 or so and let the local shop have the fun.
 
Me too. I only do it because I have 4 kids (16 to 24) and they keep me financially grounded. :D

I'll admit, I don't do clutch jobs anymore. I'd rather pay the $1100.00 or so and let the local shop have the fun.

Amen to this. Plus at 40 (although not old by any means or standards) the body is not as resilient as when I was 20-30. Damn were my legs sore from doing the simple front and rear brake replacement and two rear shocks. Had to pop in an 800mg Ibuprofen just to help me feel better. Sucks balls!!
 
I've had the bearrings replaced at the dealer, Mazda parts but they don't seem to hold up well with low offset wheels(nothin will for long). Hubs are still original but the pass side bearing is actually number five @130,000 miles. Ouch
 
Amen to this. Plus at 40 (although not old by any means or standards) the body is not as resilient as when I was 20-30. Damn were my legs sore from doing the simple front and rear brake replacement and two rear shocks. Had to pop in an 800mg Ibuprofen just to help me feel better. Sucks balls!!

My brother from another mother!^^^ Same age, same car, same physical limitations lol

It's all down hill after 40. Vision, back, knees, etc. (hah)

I'm 50. I can't imagine what 60 is going to feel like. (unamused)
 
Oh great, now I'm all depressed! Both posts above make me want to find something tall to jump off of. LOL
 
My brother from another mother!^^^ Same age, same car, same physical limitations lol

doppleganger.jpg


I did my bearings when it turned out to be the engine mount. Went with Timkin about 25K mi ago and they have been very good. There are VERY few non-Chinese bearings out there anymore, but the Timkin units were shared with another reputable and storied bearing mfr name brand.
 
Just had passenger front wheel bearing replaced. 95k miles on van. My brother in law had just replaced the passenger axle and helped me install lowering springs, I figure pounding things back together probably killed the bearing. It crapped out really really fast within a week.

Shop I had my alignment done at charged me $225 total to install a Mazda OEM bearing. Did not replace hub. Everything feels GREAT now.

I googled to try and estimate the cost of the job, it seemed to me that was a fair price considering it was an OEM bearing not the cheapest part they could get their hands on.


If I were buying myself I was going to go Timken but the bearing was going out on me so fast I needed it done ASAP and just shelled out the cash to have it done immediately.
 
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Thanks for the feedback – esp on the labor cost. I’m 99.9% sure my left bearing is shot. Just not sure if I should include the hub. Did you folks also replace the “suggested” axle nut and C-clip?

Bearing: comes down to Timken ($20), SKF, Koyo in that order. OE runs about $50 so Timken it is.
Hub: There are few generic mfgs that run unusually cheap. My cheap’dar tells me to avoid these b/c they seem too good to be true. I’m left with Timken ($80) and OEM ($100). I guess Timken also but would it be an unnecessary $160 wasted?...

Front axle diagram
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/s...odel=14357&modelYear=2008&ukey_category=20236




Here’s a how-to for a Speed3 using a universal bearing removal kit. Look pretty uneventful and not difficult. I guess I have to ask myself do I really want that kit vs just give in to the shop to keep it simple.
MazdaSpeed3 how-to (note part # are not the same).
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1H1pSrl177uwhMEAsQ1dN25Dgh9GnBgRqT6RIZ_LMP4w/edit
 
I always put on a new axle nut for a CV shaft change and this would be no different. That's because I Dremel off the part of the nut that is punched down into the shaft. I don't like reusing those nuts at all.

For the front wheel hub? I'd be inclined not to change it as long as the bearing was only marginally noisy and not having rotational problems. If for any reason the bearing wasn't spinning properly and grinding on the hub, you'd probably know it from a deep grinding noise it would make. Plus, the heat created would likely make all the grease come out of the CV shaft outer boot.

That inner circlip bearing retaining ring is likely reusable.
 
I always put on a new axle nut for a CV shaft change and this would be no different.

That inner circlip bearing retaining ring is likely reusable.

I agree on the axle nut , here in the rustbelt though the retaining clip is probably a fuzzball of rust. I recommend replacing the clip.

Also if doing this yourself installing a new hub will save time and effort cutting the inner bearing race off the old hub. Just make sure to install the bearing in the spindle assy so the tone ring (black side) is towards the ABS sensor.
 
I agree on the axle nut , here in the rustbelt though the retaining clip is probably a fuzzball of rust. I recommend replacing the clip.

Also if doing this yourself installing a new hub will save time and effort cutting the inner bearing race off the old hub. Just make sure to install the bearing in the spindle assy so the tone ring (black side) is towards the ABS sensor.

Good points. I always forget about what y'all northerners have to face. :)
 
Update: Finally took the car in to get it done, $160 labor ~2hrs - rides much smoother.
Spent a good amount of time using 3M Roloc and 4” wire wheel to clean the rust off the hub surface. Rides better but still detect some ever so slight out of round.


Timken bearing WB000028 x2
SKF C-clip CIR166 x2
hub nut Beck/Arnley 1030519 x2
 
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