I did mine on 6-29-14 and still working fine!Clearly the original poster is of an engineering background, a well thought up work around. However out of curiousity, of those of you who have done this how has it held up long term? I'm sure the AC still works, basically the "acceptable range" for the compressor to engage after voltage drop, and understand that completely. So the AC light won't flicker anymore. In the engineering realm i understand what this does and why it works.
However the root cause that i've found real world (which doesn't always mesh with the engineering world) is that the contacts inside the fan switch are very thin, and the surface area of the contact point itself leaves a bit to be desired. When clean, everything works great. However over time dirt accumulates in there, which adds resistance to the circuit. This added resistance inside the fan switch itself is why the voltage drops as much as it does, to put the "AC Sense" circuit out of range, and turning off the compressor (AC light turns off). resistance adds heat, and enough resistance/heat melts connectors and wires. Normally, if the AC quits working, you'll stop and choose a different fan speed that DOES work. You don't LEAVE it on the setting that doesn't work (and if you do, you've likely got damaged/melted wires/connectors behind the fan switch).
While this work-around does increase the operating range of the AC sense circuit, and the AC doesn't cut out anymore, you're not fixing the increased resistance through the switch itself, which in many cases melts connectors/wires/etc at the back of the fan switch. So i'm curious to some of you who have done this, hows it work out long term? Any signs of melting parts because you're basically ignoring that it normally "wouldn't" work and forcing it to work anyway.