How To: Make an AUX input for FREE

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2002 protege 2006 3
Hi every one. I have been looking for mod like this for a long time. Yesterday, I saw the end of my researching, but when i tried it on my 2002 Protege with non bose unit in it, it didn't work. I am positive that I did everything wright with a cd connector, but MD/Tape button didn't work.
Pleas help, I want AUX so bad. Thanks a Lot. My unit has a 4160 number in uper right corner.
 
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2006 Mazda 3
I did this mod over the weekend, and I could not be happier.

I have a 2006 Mazda 3, and the instructions worked perfectly for my setup.

I chose to use a male stereo plug at the end of a 6 foot cable. I ran the cable down behind the air controls (had to take out the ash tray/lighter assembly to get it through) and out through the ash tray area. I took out the actual ash tray and now I have a small compartment with a door to hold the coiled cable when not in use. When I need it, I can pull out the length I need: 1 inch to 5 feet!

Sound is great, although I do get a slight hum while charging. I may have to add the ground loop isolator. But I am also thinking of adding a blue tooth adapter like this one, which I think will solve the problem as well.

Thanks for all the info!
 

wannabe

meh
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16 CX-5, Old: 06 Mazdaspeed6, 08 CX-7, 01 Protege ES/Mp3wannabe
The Pinout on the back of the HU allows the Tape/Media button to be activated.

The stub-out on the bottom was for the optional Mini-Disc player available in the JDM versions. Jumping the pins at the connect activates the button and allows for the input.

The mod works, I used it but I was losing the right-side speakers so I moved to the Aux input that uses that stubout once they went back on sale and added a Groundloop isolator inline. I've had zero problems.
100% correct. I'm guessing the issue with your right speaker was a loose connection in the wire or breakage within it.

Hi every one. I have been looking for mod like this for a long time. Yesterday, I saw the end of my researching, but when i tried it on my 2002 Protege with non bose unit in it, it didn't work. I am positive that I did everything wright with a cd connector, but MD/Tape button didn't work.
Pleas help, I want AUX so bad. Thanks a Lot. My unit has a 4160 number in uper right corner.
I don't believe we've had anybody confirm this to work on a Protege. I think the HU's that were used back then are completely different than the more recent ones.

I did this mod over the weekend, and I could not be happier.

I have a 2006 Mazda 3, and the instructions worked perfectly for my setup.

I chose to use a male stereo plug at the end of a 6 foot cable. I ran the cable down behind the air controls (had to take out the ash tray/lighter assembly to get it through) and out through the ash tray area. I took out the actual ash tray and now I have a small compartment with a door to hold the coiled cable when not in use. When I need it, I can pull out the length I need: 1 inch to 5 feet!

Sound is great, although I do get a slight hum while charging. I may have to add the ground loop isolator. But I am also thinking of adding a blue tooth adapter like this one, which I think will solve the problem as well.

Thanks for all the info!
great ideas. i definetly get some hum/noise while charging, but it hasn't bothered me enough to follow up on it.

Let me know if the groundloop helps (if you go that route)
 
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Mazda 6 2005
Hi I recently bought 2005 Mazda6i and tried this mod.... but nothing happens to MD/Tape button... please suggest what should i do.............
 
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Mazda 6, 2003
I have tried this mod, and it did not work at first.
I blew up a PCB component in my radio by connecting pin 1 to pin 15. I went flash, boom, smoke. :S

So i opened the unit, and found that part Q702 on the PCB (labeled E-6894D) needs replacement, but i have been unable to determine the IC inscription or part number. Since a few people in this thread opened this radio unit, i wonder if anyone has a picture of that piece, with the IC part / inscription still readable?

Picture of damaged Mazda 6 radio PCB here.


Any help is appreciated!
I am unable to find the spare part numbers for this PCB online.

I haven't got any higher quality photos at the moment, but i'll post some here in order to help anyone having the same problem for other components/IC's on this PCB.

Update: It may very well be that it initially didn't work because my (2003!?) radio unit has "the 2004 problem" with a severed connection on the PCB.
 
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Mazda3 2.0 S-vt Executive
Worked just fine on my Mazda 5 2006. Took about 15 minutes and I could connect my mp3 player. Sound is great too.
Many thanks from The Netherlands.
 
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2006 Mazda5
I have tried this mod, and it did not work at first.
I blew up a PCB component in my radio by connecting pin 1 to pin 15. I went flash, boom, smoke. :S

So i opened the unit, and found that part Q702 on the PCB (labeled E-6894D) needs replacement, but i have been unable to determine the IC inscription or part number. Since a few people in this thread opened this radio unit, i wonder if anyone has a picture of that piece, with the IC part / inscription still readable?

Any help is appreciated!
I am unable to find the spare part numbers for this PCB online.

I haven't got any higher quality photos at the moment, but i'll post some here in order to help anyone having the same problem for other components/IC's on this PCB.

Update: It may very well be that it initially didn't work because my (2003!?) radio unit has "the 2004 problem" with a severed connection on the PCB.
I found this PDF that says that the transistor is a 2SB1321TA, but that part seems to be out of stock everywhere. I did find a possible replacement on eBay - no guarantee, but it may work. HERE is the eBay auction.

Mouser (where I buy my electronics from) doesn't have the exact part number in stock, and their website doesn't give any similar options. I checked DigiKey and they may have a similar part. Try this link for Digikey. I'm not saying that's the exact part and I'm not saying that's the only bad part, but it may help you out.

There's always after-market radios.....

Good Luck.
 
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Mazda 6 2.3 Sport (UK)
Hi all,

Firstly great mod and one that I wish to try for myself!

Just wondering if you had heard anyone trying this on a UK based spec first generation 6? (with BOSE)

Do you know if the US / UK stereos are the same? Does anyone know where I might find a diagram of the pins suited to my model?

I'm a little apprehensive to try it after seeing a couple of people have blown up their stereos... I'd like to make sure the live and earth are in the same places first!

Thanks in advance!

Ross.
 
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2006 Mazda5
I just finished this on my 2006 Mazda 5 with 6-CD changer. It worked perfect. Thanks.

It sounds great, but the volume is considerably lower when using my phone as the music source through the media button on the Mazda's radio. If I crank my phone's volume and the car volume up all the way (level 34 on the car), it's comparable to listening to the CD with the volume on 18.

Still, it's a much needed improvement.
 
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Mazda 6 2.0 CRTD 136
I have Mazda 6 2003 model, and I tried this mod. It did not work, and then I made a stupid mistake. Shorted 1, and 15, and fried the poor thing.

Same transistor burned out, model of transistor is 2SB1073TX.

Obviously older models of Mazda 6 have different audio.

Anyone out there that knows what to do with older models?
 
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Mazda 6 2.0 CRTD 136
Ok, here is the PIN assignment for the connector on HU in my 6 (Matsushita Electric CR-YM4272K).



Pins mentioned in this mod (1-15) are lower row (a-o).

Does anyone have the manufacturer's layout of pins for the HU models on which this mod was successful?
If so, we could compare them, and possibly come to a solution for older models, and nicely round up this thread.

Also, i've seen many conversations about L716 mod. And some of them are showing this image:



I guess Bus+ here is new port you enable with mod L716.
Is there any special signal that needs to come on this port or this is the pin that is being shorted in this thread?
 

wannabe

meh
:
16 CX-5, Old: 06 Mazdaspeed6, 08 CX-7, 01 Protege ES/Mp3wannabe
and looking at that pinout, its the same. except in ours, pin 13/m is where we get our media button from.
 
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mazda 3 2006
Hi all,

I have a 2006 Mazda3,

Done this mod this morning........

It took me 20 seconds to remove radio from car ...WOW...

Had done the wiring with the " D sub " pins, made a jumper cable for pin 1-13

My earbubs had 3 wires : a red, a blue, a green...... It ended up being red for left, blue for right and green for signal.

It has the sound quality of factory installed component ....WOW....

SO GLAD I DID THIS !!!!!

Thank you all !
 
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2005 Mazda 3S Hatch 2.3L
Hey all,

I tried to install from the instructions in the first post. Jumped 1-13 and installed the headphone wires:
Red = 3
Blue = 5,
Signal (Copper) = 7

With the 2005 Mazda 3 HU would the Jumper from 1-13 pin activate the Tape/ MD functionality to get sound out of the auxilary device? Are the other pin setups just as important?

I'm at the finish line, I can feel it, just need to diagnose this once issue!!!

Much appreciated!
 
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Mazda Tribute 2006
Hey All,

For those of you with Hum / Noise issues (well everyone else actually also):
You should NOT be connecting the Audio Ground (i.e. the bare copper shield from the audio cable) to Pin number 7. This is a Signal Ground (i.e. for communications, not audio). The proper Ground for the Audio would be Pins 4 and 6 (Labelled RH- and LH- in various pictures in this thread).

So, the RH+ (Pin 3) and RH- (Pin 4) are the RIGHT AUDIO signal (+) and AUDIO ground (-)
and the LH+ (Pin 5) and LH- (Pin 6) are the LEFT AUDIO signal (+) and AUDIO ground (-)

Do not confuse the '-' or AUDIO Grounds with the chassis or power (12Volt) ground or the Signal ground - this is what is causing any humm.

Best way would be to tie the two AUDIO grounds together and to the SHIELD of your Audio cable.

[HR][/HR]

As for those of you blowing up your units when trying to short Pin 13 / Pin 15 to Pin 1:

If you do not know for sure, for your particular model, that the pin (13 or 15) is the ACC (Accessory Power out) or the RES/AUX the DO NOT just connect a wire to GROUND because if the Pin you are tying to ground ends up being the ACC pin then you WILL fry your unit! (You are tying a POWER OUTPUT pin DIRECTLY to Ground - this is not a good thing to do...)

The better way to 'experiment', if you must, would be to go to Radio Shack (or other parts store) and get a in-line fuse holder and put in a small current (Amperage) value Fuse (like 0.25A, i.e. a quarter of an Amp or 250 milliamp). Now use the two wires one either side of this pig-tail fuse to tie the Pin 13 or 15 (on one side) to Pin 1 (on the other side). Now, if this ends up (after powering radio on and trying to select AUX or CD, etc.) BLOWING this 0.25 A fuse the you know that this is NOT the pin you want to tie to Ground.

[HR][/HR]

Another Idea (I haven't tried this myself yet):

In regards to the pin that IS the ACC (Accessory Power Out) - This is probably not really a Pin meant to POWER an external Accessory but more likely to 'tell' that Accessory Unit the the Radio is ON (and then the Accessory can turn itself on, but getting it's own power from it's own Power pin that is connected through a Fuse to the Vehicle +12V). Does anyone know if this Pin (ACC) goes Hi/Lo (i.e. +12V / 0V) when the radio is powered on off? Or maybe it only goes Hi (+12V) when you press an AUX or other button on the Radio face?
If this is the case then I could come up with a simple circuit that when you press the AUX button on the Radio (and ACC goes Hi) then the 'grounding' of the RES/AUX pin would occur (via a relay or transistor) - this would make it so that you could switch your AUX input On/Off via the Radio control.

[HR][/HR]

Also, for those wanting to power a USB receptacle from your vehicle you could use an LM7805, which is a DC to DC converter (5V regulator), to convert the battery voltage (12V, actually nominally about 13.5V) down to 5V (which is what USB power is).

Here is the Radio Shack info:
+5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805
Model: 7805 | Catalog #: 276-1770
$1.99

Here is an LM7805 circuit:


And the LM7805 device image:


You would probably want to put a pigtail fuse between the +12V and the INPUT pin of the LM7805 as well as another between the OUTPUT pin of the LM7805 and the USB port. The above LM7805 from the Shack is capable of 1.0A so you would probable want a 2A Fuse between +12 and LM7805 INPUT and a 0.5A or .75A Fuse between the LM7805 OUPUT and your USB Connector.

Here is an image of the USB connector pinout:


You would connect the LM7805 OUTPUT (through 0.75A fuse) to Pin 1 of the USB and connect Pin 4 of the USB to Vehicle Ground (also connect the GND pin of the LM7805 to Vehicle Ground).


I'll post again if I get a chance to look at this and try it over the holidays...


-Waltf (Electrical Engineer)
 
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Mazda 6, 2003
Sorry for bumping, but i'd like to leave a message on how i solved this problem i had:
I blew up a PCB component in my radio by connecting pin 1 to pin 15. I went flash, boom, smoke. :S

So i opened the unit, and found that part Q702 on the PCB (labeled E-6894D) needs replacement, but i have been unable to determine the IC inscription or part number. Since a few people in this thread opened this radio unit, i wonder if anyone has a picture of that piece, with the IC part / inscription still readable
My fix:
I was not able to identify and aquire the original IC, and i ended up putting in a PZT2907AT1G transistor (pnp sot-223).
I can give no warrenty though! :) It was a guestimate for a similar IC based on the PCB and schematics, but it still works fine after thousands of kilometers.

I bought it here: http://nl.farnell.com/on-semiconductor/pzt2907at1g/transistor-pnp-sot-223/dp/1459169RL
 
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