The one currently being linked to everyone is out of date and missing the most basic things... pictures. With Tunersteve's help i had recontructed it with more details over @ 6crew. lol, yes this is a quote from a quote that i updated then quoted... (wiggle)
Enjoy!
http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10265
If you have any thing to add or questions feel free to ask me or tunersteve (volunteering you steve! haha)
cheers
Enjoy!
http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10265
The small price we MS6 owners paid for extra performance is emphasized by our back seats.
The majority of sedans, even other sport sedans, have back seats that can drop down as a standard.
But the extra bracing behind the back seat must have made the designers assume that drivers would be willing to give up that pass through space all-together!!
Well i sure as hell was not. Im an avid snowboarder and the space between the bracing is still plenty of room for 1 or 2 snowboards to pass through!
I used the instructions from the how-to on Mazdas247 here: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2297857&postcount=6
Newly inserted pictures are provided by tunersteve, thx!
All the following pics come from his album HERE.
This is a duplicate post of one I made over on *Sister Forum*. FYI in case you don't frequent that forum.
I have completed my rear-seat pass-through mod on my Mazdaspeed6. This mod involves two steps:
1) cut an opening in the rear seat/trunk liner
2) install rear seat remote-release levers
STEP 1 Obtain the necessary parts
I purchased my parts from mazdastuff.com. Cost: about $55 including shipping.
(2) GK2A-57-X50A ... LEVER, REMOTE
(2) GK2A-57-X24 ... BRACKET, LEVER- REMOTE
(1) GK2A-57-X6YA ... CABLE, LEFT
(1) GK2A-57-X6XA ... CABLE, RIGHT
(3) GB02-67-014 ... CLIP **
(4) metric nuts and washers that you can find at your local hardware store***
(Click HERE for a direct link to the complete package of all parts in the above list.)
** buy only 2 if you have NAVI.
*** sorry, I don't know the size. I used some I found in my random parts bin.
(NUT size needed is 6mm/1.0 thread.)
STEP 2 Remove all of the trunk lining, then flip down the rear seats.
Pop off the numerous clips securing the panels around the trunk by pulling up on their centers.
(He forgot to add, that to release the seats, when all the trunk liner has been removed, simply lay on your back and look up between the rear dash and the seats/back of trunk... you should see a metal bolt/pin behind each seat which you can simply push outward to release the seat latches. This pic shows the latches after the seats were released/opened.)
STEP 3 Make the trunk comfy.
You will need to lay down inside the trunk to install the cables, so place something comfy on the trunk floor.
STEP 4 Widen the holes at the ends of the cables
The pins on the rear seat latch are slightly bigger than the slotted opening on the cable, so I opened up the hole just a little so the cable would fit over the pins.
(Pic is a bit blurry, but in the foreground is a pentip pointing to the end of the cable with the slotted opening. It is in a vice to widen the far tip of the hole, using a rat tail file.)
STEP 5 Install the remote-lever cables
Lay down in the trunk on your back and attach the ends of the cables to the seat latches. Route the cables through the body as shown below. When the cables are routed and attached to the seat latches, clip the cables to the body so they don't pop off.
(Driver side seat latch & cable clip location.)
(Driver side cable route.)
(Driver side cable route & release lever location.)
(Passenger side seat latch & cable clip location.)
(Passenger side cable route.)
(Passenger side release lever location.)
STEP 6 Assemble the ends of the levers and secure them to the mounts with the nuts you bought.
Sorry no pics of bracket & release lever assembly.
Prep: First slide the black metal bracket over the cable, with the correct end facing toward the ball tip of the cable (bracket sits flush with the plastic release lever... Basically take the ball tip end of the cable, pull some slack out of the cable housing. Attach the ball tip inside the plastic release lever, and then snap the metal collar of the cable into the plastic end with a small divit. Any questions? PM me.
Assembly: If you already routed the cable, you can do the above in the trunk, if not, route the cable backwards from the release lever locations. Use the 6mm nuts to secure the bracket/lever. Locknuts are safest bet, washers arent rlly necessary but usable with normal bolt nuts.
(To give you an idea of what the release levers look like...)
(Factory mounts for release levers.)
STEP 7 Cut an opening in the trunk liner and modify it to flip up and down easily.
Reattach the trunk liner to the trunk with the speed-clips, then trace an opening on the back of the liner from the inside of the car. Carefully cut out the opening with a utility knife. I placed a block of wood beneath the liner to have a firm surface on which to cut. Fabricate some method to open/close the cut-out. Here's the results of my work, in which I used some lexan strips, double-sided tape, velcro, and a convenient pull-strap: (Pic n/a.)
(This step is purely up to preference, you can also free cut an opening when not in the trunk, or leave out the backing all-together.
STEP 8 Cut out notches in the left and right-side trunk liners to allow for the newly installed levers to fit.
(Roughly 1" wide by 3/4" tall square cut into the top right-angle portion of the side liners.)
STEP 9 Reinstall the trunk panels and admire your handiwork!
(Driver side release lever & liner.)
(Passenger side release lever & liner.)
Red text is obviously my added notes to the original info.
Enjoy!!
If you have any thing to add or questions feel free to ask me or tunersteve (volunteering you steve! haha)
cheers
