How To: Ebay FMIC

One more question about something I'm concerned on.. I had to delete the stock fans to run this setup, so I'm running a slim fan behind the radiator. In order for the fan to pull instead of push i wired it backwards negative to positive and vise versa. When I hooked up the fan directly to the battery it worked. So I cut off the wires on the stock clip where the original fan clips on, on the drivers side, and connected the wires via crimping sleeves. The problem is the fan never kicks on, but the car never goes above normal temp either. But still I think the fan should kick on at stable idles. Any one know why? Sorry for the boom hope everything made sense.
 
One more question about something I'm concerned on.. I had to delete the stock fans to run this setup, so I'm running a slim fan behind the radiator. In order for the fan to pull instead of push i wired it backwards negative to positive and vise versa. When I hooked up the fan directly to the battery it worked. So I cut off the wires on the stock clip where the original fan clips on, on the drivers side, and connected the wires via crimping sleeves. The problem is the fan never kicks on, but the car never goes above normal temp either. But still I think the fan should kick on at stable idles. Any one know why? Sorry for the boom hope everything made sense.

Kick on the AC, the pass side fan should run. Otherwise, just let it sit and idle, and eventually the driver's side will have to kick on.
 
The passenger side is no longer connected and I've let the car sit for 5+ minutes and no fan. So I was wondering if your guys fans kick on often maybe I need to connect the wires better
 
???

Will I have to reset my ecu or do something else if I get a fmic kit? Considering I am going from the bpv setup to completely venting the pressure through a bov. I've heard that the car sometimes can't adjust to this change?
 
Will I have to reset my ecu or do something else if I get a fmic kit? Considering I am going from the bpv setup to completely venting the pressure through a bov. I've heard that the car sometimes can't adjust to this change?

It would be advisable to have the battery disconnected when doing the work anyway, but yes. Forcing the ECU to relearn is a good idea. Ideally you'd want to log AFRs and tune the car accordingly but.. thats obviously budget dependant.


Ebay BOV FTMFL.
 
Sooo.... Is that a yes or no?

No. Ideally, you would buy no-name piping and couplers (for your boost levels fancy couplers are unnecessary, so it really doesn't matter), a good intercooler core (I had a vibrant, but there are many good brands to choose from.. not saying you have to go SPEARCO or something, just a decent bar/plate type), and a good branded BOV. If you have to skimp, you can use an ebay intercooler, but please PLEASE do not run a cheap knock-off BOV. They work like s***, and you'll just end up replacing it anyway.
 
I used a CXRacing kit. I try to stay away from posting links because they tend to break every couple of weks. Search that on ebay and you should get a hit. You want the kit with 2 J/U pipes, 2 45s, 2 90s, and as many couplers as you can get.
 
So I know this is irrelevant to this thread but I am looking for a low profile exhaust and think that the electronic cut out exhaust would be an awesome choice for me. Buttt I just looked under my car and did not see any possible way to be able to weld the y pipe to the exhaust? I guess I'm asking if anybody has any knowledge that if it is possible to put a electronic cut out on my car or not?
 
So I know this is irrelevant to this thread but I am looking for a low profile exhaust and think that the electronic cut out exhaust would be an awesome choice for me. Buttt I just looked under my car and did not see any possible way to be able to weld the y pipe to the exhaust? I guess I'm asking if anybody has any knowledge that if it is possible to put a electronic cut out on my car or not?

Why number one and really you just have to be creative with it.
 
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