- :
- 2008 Mazda5 GT
How to convert from cartridge to canister filter Mazda5
There are already how-tos for the Mazda3, which is mostly the same except the Mazda5 and Mazdaspeed3 have oil cooler attachment! http://www.mazda 3forums.com/index.php?topic=146390.0. I took a slightly different sequence of steps that will give you more working space as you go along.
You NEED the mounting plate (WITH oil cooler provisions) and gasket. Why buying parts, just pretend you own a Mazdaspeed3 with the cartridge filter and that you want to convert to canister. One of the places that I call said this won't work b/c it is for MS3 (rolleyes) <- obviously a parts guy who only know serial numbers and part numbers.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12
By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12
Plate part# L311-14-311 (supersedes L311-14-310)
Gasket part# LF01-14-342
Choose your preferred oil filter:
Mazda OEM: LF10-14-302A
Bosch 3330
Fram PH 3614
Fram TG 3614
Fram XG 3614
K&N HP-1002
Mobil 1 M1-102
STP S3614
Super Tech 3614
Royal Purple 10-2835
Purolator PL10241
Purolator L10241
Wix 51348
NAPA FIL 1348
ValueCraft V3614
Torque specs:
25.1-29.5 ft lbs for oil cooler to oil filter mount bolt
9-13 ft lbs for oil pressure switch
14.8-22.1 ft lbs for oil filter mount
Conversion plate WITH oil cooler provisions - $58,
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2870
Conversion plate NO oil cooler provisions - $36 (NOT for Mazda5)
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2869
Diagram of how all of the parts (and options) fit together
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...ssembly=299330
Begin:
Remove1: Drain oil, removed the cartridge filter, and set aside.
I recommend rolling paper to plug the oil flow passage coming out of the oil filter housing or you’ll get dripping oil as you loosen and move the oil cooler hoses around.
Remove2: Remove the 15mm oil cooler to base plate mounting bolt.
I think it was a 15mm bolt. There is enough space for a combo wrench but not enough space for a socket wrench.
Note: I took, what I though, was the easy route by NOT removing the oil cooler hoses. In hindsight, I recommend that you do as it would give you more working space. It’s easy to remove but I didn’t want to deal with more mess coming from the hoses.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Remove3: Unclip the oil sensor plug!
Unlike link above, it takes 2 seconds. Trick (for me) to removing any stubborn clips is with two flat head screw driver. Using the 1st to push against the release clip, insert the 2nd one right into where the clip meets the base. Use a slight twisting motion with the 2nd screw driver and it comes off without a fight. Avoids the risk of breaking the locking clip from trying to pinch too hard or yanking too hard with your hands.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Remove4: Remove oil sensor plug.
You want to remove this now before loosening the base plate. Since you have loosened the oil cooler (or better yet removed the oil cooler hoses too), you have a tad more flexible working space. It will leak a little oil on the side mounting hole once it breaks loose. Had to us a monkey wrench since there is no space for a socket wrench and I don’t have a combo wrench that big.
Remove5: Remove the four 10mm base place mounting bolts.
If you did NOT remove the hoses, you can push/shove them aside and be able to squeeze in a 3/8 socket wrench. Having different length extenders will help!
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Everything is off. Clean, prep, and prime the new parts and surface areas.
Install 1: Install the new base plate with a new gasket.
Make sure you order a NEW gasket and do not attempt to reuse the old one. It is a metal crush gasket and while you ‘may’ be able to get away with reusing the old one, why risk it? If using a new gasket, I don’t think you’ll need any additional sealant. If reusing old gasket (sigh), I would recommend adding some high temp sealant as a safety measure. That said, I put some high temp silicone sealant on a new gasket anyway . This is permanent for me and I had a tube lying around so why not. Note, that b/c this is a crush gasket, a light film is more than enough and be sure to spread it OUTSIDE of the lining.
You also don’t need to use any threadlock since there was none on there before but I used some anyway . Tighten in a ‘X’ pattern to distribute load on the gasket as you tighten.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Install2: Install oil sensor plug.
Remember, this does NOT go in all the way! Tighten by feel and make sure the clip is facing DOWN! Do this now while this is the most space you’ll get. Wait to clip on the harness till the end so it does not get in the way.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Install3: Install the oil cooler attachment
See Remove2. Also connect hoses if you took the effort to disconnect them.
Install4: Clip on oil sensor harness
Done
Before
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
After
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Comparing the two base plates:
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Hints:
Remove oil sensor clip for easier work
Remove oil cooler hoses for easier work
Socket extenders help make it easier
Do NOT over tighten! This is how you break things. I rather tighten enough or let it leak and go back to retighten. More often, folks tend to over tighten in the name of ‘what if’. All of these mounting bolts come off/on pretty easily and you don’t need a torque wrench (not that there’s space to use one for the oil cooler attachment bolt or the oil sensor plug; only on the four base plate mounting bolts (not even referring to the monstrous one I have).
Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you find something different and good luck.
Disclaimer: Please don't attempt if you do not have common sense. Blah blah blah, do at your own risk.
There are already how-tos for the Mazda3, which is mostly the same except the Mazda5 and Mazdaspeed3 have oil cooler attachment! http://www.mazda 3forums.com/index.php?topic=146390.0. I took a slightly different sequence of steps that will give you more working space as you go along.
You NEED the mounting plate (WITH oil cooler provisions) and gasket. Why buying parts, just pretend you own a Mazdaspeed3 with the cartridge filter and that you want to convert to canister. One of the places that I call said this won't work b/c it is for MS3 (rolleyes) <- obviously a parts guy who only know serial numbers and part numbers.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12
By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12
Plate part# L311-14-311 (supersedes L311-14-310)
Gasket part# LF01-14-342
Choose your preferred oil filter:
Mazda OEM: LF10-14-302A
Bosch 3330
Fram PH 3614
Fram TG 3614
Fram XG 3614
K&N HP-1002
Mobil 1 M1-102
STP S3614
Super Tech 3614
Royal Purple 10-2835
Purolator PL10241
Purolator L10241
Wix 51348
NAPA FIL 1348
ValueCraft V3614
Torque specs:
25.1-29.5 ft lbs for oil cooler to oil filter mount bolt
9-13 ft lbs for oil pressure switch
14.8-22.1 ft lbs for oil filter mount
Conversion plate WITH oil cooler provisions - $58,
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2870
Conversion plate NO oil cooler provisions - $36 (NOT for Mazda5)
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2869
Diagram of how all of the parts (and options) fit together
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...ssembly=299330
Begin:
Remove1: Drain oil, removed the cartridge filter, and set aside.
I recommend rolling paper to plug the oil flow passage coming out of the oil filter housing or you’ll get dripping oil as you loosen and move the oil cooler hoses around.
Remove2: Remove the 15mm oil cooler to base plate mounting bolt.
I think it was a 15mm bolt. There is enough space for a combo wrench but not enough space for a socket wrench.
Note: I took, what I though, was the easy route by NOT removing the oil cooler hoses. In hindsight, I recommend that you do as it would give you more working space. It’s easy to remove but I didn’t want to deal with more mess coming from the hoses.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Remove3: Unclip the oil sensor plug!
Unlike link above, it takes 2 seconds. Trick (for me) to removing any stubborn clips is with two flat head screw driver. Using the 1st to push against the release clip, insert the 2nd one right into where the clip meets the base. Use a slight twisting motion with the 2nd screw driver and it comes off without a fight. Avoids the risk of breaking the locking clip from trying to pinch too hard or yanking too hard with your hands.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Remove4: Remove oil sensor plug.
You want to remove this now before loosening the base plate. Since you have loosened the oil cooler (or better yet removed the oil cooler hoses too), you have a tad more flexible working space. It will leak a little oil on the side mounting hole once it breaks loose. Had to us a monkey wrench since there is no space for a socket wrench and I don’t have a combo wrench that big.
Remove5: Remove the four 10mm base place mounting bolts.
If you did NOT remove the hoses, you can push/shove them aside and be able to squeeze in a 3/8 socket wrench. Having different length extenders will help!
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Everything is off. Clean, prep, and prime the new parts and surface areas.
Install 1: Install the new base plate with a new gasket.
Make sure you order a NEW gasket and do not attempt to reuse the old one. It is a metal crush gasket and while you ‘may’ be able to get away with reusing the old one, why risk it? If using a new gasket, I don’t think you’ll need any additional sealant. If reusing old gasket (sigh), I would recommend adding some high temp sealant as a safety measure. That said, I put some high temp silicone sealant on a new gasket anyway . This is permanent for me and I had a tube lying around so why not. Note, that b/c this is a crush gasket, a light film is more than enough and be sure to spread it OUTSIDE of the lining.
You also don’t need to use any threadlock since there was none on there before but I used some anyway . Tighten in a ‘X’ pattern to distribute load on the gasket as you tighten.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Install2: Install oil sensor plug.
Remember, this does NOT go in all the way! Tighten by feel and make sure the clip is facing DOWN! Do this now while this is the most space you’ll get. Wait to clip on the harness till the end so it does not get in the way.
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Install3: Install the oil cooler attachment
See Remove2. Also connect hoses if you took the effort to disconnect them.
Install4: Clip on oil sensor harness
Done
Before
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
After
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Comparing the two base plates:
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26
Hints:
Remove oil sensor clip for easier work
Remove oil cooler hoses for easier work
Socket extenders help make it easier
Do NOT over tighten! This is how you break things. I rather tighten enough or let it leak and go back to retighten. More often, folks tend to over tighten in the name of ‘what if’. All of these mounting bolts come off/on pretty easily and you don’t need a torque wrench (not that there’s space to use one for the oil cooler attachment bolt or the oil sensor plug; only on the four base plate mounting bolts (not even referring to the monstrous one I have).
Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you find something different and good luck.
Disclaimer: Please don't attempt if you do not have common sense. Blah blah blah, do at your own risk.
Last edited: