How to convert from cartridge to canister filter Mazda5

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2008 Mazda5 GT
How to convert from cartridge to canister filter Mazda5

There are already how-tos for the Mazda3, which is mostly the same except the Mazda5 and Mazdaspeed3 have oil cooler attachment! http://www.mazda 3forums.com/index.php?topic=146390.0. I took a slightly different sequence of steps that will give you more working space as you go along.

You NEED the mounting plate (WITH oil cooler provisions) and gasket. Why buying parts, just pretend you own a Mazdaspeed3 with the cartridge filter and that you want to convert to canister. One of the places that I call said this won't work b/c it is for MS3 (rolleyes) <- obviously a parts guy who only know serial numbers and part numbers.

By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12

By silentnoise713 at 2011-09-12

Plate part# L311-14-311 (supersedes L311-14-310)
Gasket part# LF01-14-342

Choose your preferred oil filter:
Mazda OEM: LF10-14-302A
Bosch 3330
Fram PH 3614
Fram TG 3614
Fram XG 3614
K&N HP-1002
Mobil 1 M1-102
STP S3614
Super Tech 3614
Royal Purple 10-2835
Purolator PL10241
Purolator L10241
Wix 51348
NAPA FIL 1348
ValueCraft V3614

Torque specs:
25.1-29.5 ft lbs for oil cooler to oil filter mount bolt
9-13 ft lbs for oil pressure switch
14.8-22.1 ft lbs for oil filter mount

Conversion plate WITH oil cooler provisions - $58,
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2870

Conversion plate NO oil cooler provisions - $36 (NOT for Mazda5)
http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2869

Diagram of how all of the parts (and options) fit together
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...ssembly=299330


Begin:
Remove1: Drain oil, removed the cartridge filter, and set aside.
I recommend rolling paper to plug the oil flow passage coming out of the oil filter housing or you’ll get dripping oil as you loosen and move the oil cooler hoses around.

Remove2: Remove the 15mm oil cooler to base plate mounting bolt.
I think it was a 15mm bolt. There is enough space for a combo wrench but not enough space for a socket wrench.
Note: I took, what I though, was the easy route by NOT removing the oil cooler hoses. In hindsight, I recommend that you do as it would give you more working space. It’s easy to remove but I didn’t want to deal with more mess coming from the hoses.

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

Remove3: Unclip the oil sensor plug!
Unlike link above, it takes 2 seconds. Trick (for me) to removing any stubborn clips is with two flat head screw driver. Using the 1st to push against the release clip, insert the 2nd one right into where the clip meets the base. Use a slight twisting motion with the 2nd screw driver and it comes off without a fight. Avoids the risk of breaking the locking clip from trying to pinch too hard or yanking too hard with your hands.

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

Remove4: Remove oil sensor plug.
You want to remove this now before loosening the base plate. Since you have loosened the oil cooler (or better yet removed the oil cooler hoses too), you have a tad more flexible working space. It will leak a little oil on the side mounting hole once it breaks loose. Had to us a monkey wrench since there is no space for a socket wrench and I don’t have a combo wrench that big.

Remove5: Remove the four 10mm base place mounting bolts.
If you did NOT remove the hoses, you can push/shove them aside and be able to squeeze in a 3/8 socket wrench. Having different length extenders will help!

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

Everything is off. Clean, prep, and prime the new parts and surface areas.

Install 1: Install the new base plate with a new gasket.
Make sure you order a NEW gasket and do not attempt to reuse the old one. It is a metal crush gasket and while you ‘may’ be able to get away with reusing the old one, why risk it? If using a new gasket, I don’t think you’ll need any additional sealant. If reusing old gasket (sigh), I would recommend adding some high temp sealant as a safety measure. That said, I put some high temp silicone sealant on a new gasket anyway :p. This is permanent for me and I had a tube lying around so why not. Note, that b/c this is a crush gasket, a light film is more than enough and be sure to spread it OUTSIDE of the lining.

You also don’t need to use any threadlock since there was none on there before but I used some anyway :p. Tighten in a ‘X’ pattern to distribute load on the gasket as you tighten.

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

Install2: Install oil sensor plug.
Remember, this does NOT go in all the way! Tighten by feel and make sure the clip is facing DOWN! Do this now while this is the most space you’ll get. Wait to clip on the harness till the end so it does not get in the way.

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

Install3: Install the oil cooler attachment
See Remove2. Also connect hoses if you took the effort to disconnect them.

Install4: Clip on oil sensor harness

Done

Before

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

After

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26


Comparing the two base plates:

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26

By silentnoise713 at 2011-11-26


Hints:
Remove oil sensor clip for easier work
Remove oil cooler hoses for easier work
Socket extenders help make it easier
Do NOT over tighten! This is how you break things. I rather tighten enough or let it leak and go back to retighten. More often, folks tend to over tighten in the name of ‘what if’. All of these mounting bolts come off/on pretty easily and you don’t need a torque wrench (not that there’s space to use one for the oil cooler attachment bolt or the oil sensor plug; only on the four base plate mounting bolts (not even referring to the monstrous one I have).


Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you find something different and good luck.



Disclaimer: Please don't attempt if you do not have common sense. Blah blah blah, do at your own risk.
 
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2003 Protege5, 2006 Mazda3, 2015 CX5
I did this conversion on my 3. After a little research I found 2 different filter options for more capacity. Problem is I can't find my notes. I believe the Wix numbers were 51515 (holds ~ a quart) and 51516 (holds ~ half a quart). However these filters are both taller and will come in contact with the stupid plastic shield under the engine.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
I did this conversion on my 3. After a little research I found 2 different filter options for more capacity. Problem is I can't find my notes. I believe the Wix numbers were 51515 (holds ~ a quart) and 51516 (holds ~ half a quart). However these filters are both taller and will come in contact with the stupid plastic shield under the engine.
Greatly appreciate it if you can look up and confirm the part numbers!! Being able to use a larger body filter is one of reasons why I converted (naughty)
 
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2003 Protege5, 2006 Mazda3, 2015 CX5
Okay, what I found out was that the 51516 Wix filter is exactly the same in all specifications except the height, it is 1.4" taller. So you will pick up some capacity there. The 51515 however will most likely not work. There are slight differences in the gasket dimensions. The 51348/51516 gasket is 2.734 o.d, 2.43 i.d. and 0.226 thk, 51515 gasket is 2.834 o.d, 2.462 i.d, and 0.200 thk.


Great write-up, and pics. Nice work.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
I think 51515 should work! The 1 quarter filter gasket is a tad wider but not by much, essentially having a wider and larger surface area. Most important thing is that the ID and thickness are close enough match. If you look at the first pic (and I observed this when I first mounted the Mazda filter), the base is WIDER than the OEM filter and should be able to mount an even wider filter/gasket. However, there is the concern that the filter body might be physically too wide to fit. Chances are this same motor and filter housing exists in some Mazda truck so most likely it will go on, with potential clearance concerns. Did you catch that there is a 2 quart version of this filter (pushing it)!?! I will try the 51515 for my next oil change and see how it goes.


Standard filter
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51348
Part Number: 51348
UPC Number: 765809513488
Principal Application: Various Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep (82-11), Various GM, Saturn (85-07), Lexus (90-10), Saab (67-09), Suzuki (86-02), Toyota (88-12), Various Ford (03-12), Mazda, Mercury (05-12), Yugo (86-89), VW (09-11) Various Lawn&Garden, Farm, HD Equipment
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921

Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4 16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.43 0.226


Larger filter
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51515
Part Number: 51515
UPC Number: 765809515154
Principal Application: Chrysler Family of Cars/Trucks (57-70), Ford Family of Cars/Trucks (57-00), Mazda Trucks (94-00), Toyota Landcruiser (71-96), various HD applications - (Two Quart version is 51773 (Yikes, pushing it I think!))
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 5.178 (+1.774)
Outer Diameter: 3.66 (+.739 -there should be enough space)

Thread Size: 3/4 16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Ends: Metal
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 290
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.834 2.462 0.2
 
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2003 Protege5, 2006 Mazda3, 2015 CX5
I really think the 51515 will work fine as well, I want to try it but I think it is too tall and may cause issues with the plastic undertray on my 3.
Don't forget the 51516 is a perfect match gasket wise and is also larger than the stock filter. That is what I have been using.

Disclaimer: If anyone uses one of these other filters it is at your own risk. Even though you can do so without any issues I don't want anyone crying to me because they blew their car up.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
My car may be gutless but it got ballz

Since I was not sure if the WIX 51515 will fit, I decided to give the AutoExtra version of the same filter a try. The AE filters were cheap at $1.XX each from Rockauto. I must say, I am even more impressed with the Mazda OEM filter as it is made in the USA and have a very high quality feel to it (thick, sturdy, and heavy). The AE feels thin and cheaply made. Nonetheless, they are WIX baby brothers and I trust that over some of the cheaper (quality but cost more) filters out there. I will stick with WIX moving forward.

What are AutoExtra filters? See below. WIXs website show the corresponding part number for AE and WIX filters. Just add 618 in front of any WIX filter and you get the AE filter. Thought these three are different sizes, the biggest one is actually cheaper than the other two smaller ones (supply and demand?)!
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=426763
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2345946

Does it fit? Well, yes and no. The 618-51516 fits and clears the engine belly pan cover with no problem. The 618-51515 can mount but cannot spin up all the way as it hits two side notches on the filter base. If you cut out these two non functional pieces of the bracket it will go on with no problem in terms of gasket seal and width. Height, on the other hand, I cannot confirm since I cannot mount it all the way. What I was able to get on, it seem to hand low and may interfere with the under tray. It does look like HUGE filter (insert nut joke)! If you do the filter relocation kit and find a space big enough, this filter is a viable option.


Do at your own risk.






 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
Silentnoise713, I'm considering doing this conversion and was wondering if you gained oil capacity from stock cartridge to 51516. How much oil do you refill with now if you have continued with the 51516 filter?
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Honestly I never measured exactly how much more oil the 51516 filter took. I top off by as needed and don't follow exact measurents. Also I actually switch around but mostly prefer to use the Ford Motorcraft filter for the Focus. It seems to be about the same size/capacity as the OE Mazda filter (I suspect it is the same filter). I prefer it bc it litterely feels like a quality filter and readily available for ~$4 at Walmart so I don't need to stock it. Made in the USA!

Now, the trick is to find a larger FMC filter that also works!
 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
It's probably a wash with oil capacity, and saving $2 per filter doesn't render a payback. I just thought that since I have to remove the oil cooler to sand down the rust and fix some pitting, that I may convert for capacity purposes. But I have other things to do to the vehicle this summer that are more important. Thanks.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
In terms of oil capacity, it probably is a wash and nothing to be concerned with so this is probably not what you are looking for. What you get from a larger filter is more physical filtering media space inside. IMO, what matters most is the quality of the media (ability to filter out fine particles), quantity is a distant second. However, if you like to stretch your OCI (say 10K with quality full synthetic), then you’d want both quality and quantity. In the warm season, I do 5K OCI with semi synthetic and standard size filter. In winter months (when I really don’t care to do any maintenance), I use full synthetic and the larger filter and go ~10K. I also change my oil weight based on season.

I agree doing this to save a few bucks per filter is not a good reason but it is a bonus. IMO, the only reason to do this is if you want easier oil filter changes (or oil free fingers for me). That alone should be the primary reason and is worth more than the $40 or so bucks –to me :). YMMV.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Oh forgot to add. I transferred the conversation based when I changed cars. Unfortunately I did not have the time to make the modification on the base to fit the 51515 filter. It would have been two easy cuts but I just didn’t have time. If you are looking for added capacity, using the 51515 filter will DEFINALTEY require more oil. This thing is 1 quart capacity and is HUGE but it “may” (or may not) hang low. If you are really pursuing more oil, I recall WIX's catalog also mentions a 2 quart version of this filter. I can't image how big it would be... Worst case, oil filter conversion + relocation = problem solved!
 
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Sweet writeup. I did the same. My instructions are easier but not necessarily cheaper..

Sell 2008 Mazda5

Buy 2009 or 2010 Mazda5....
 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
A remote oil filter would be ideal to gain capacity with the 51515 because I'm personally not inclined to modify the mount support braces. When looking at the cartridge housing, I feel that some capacity may actually be lost to the OEM canister, but then gained back with the 51516. The cartridge housing actually has quite a bit of volume with the cap. Have you cut open any canister filters to compare to the cartridge (WIX - 2.94" ht. X 2.461 dia.)?
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Sweet writeup. I did the same. My instructions are easier but not necessarily cheaper..

Sell 2008 Mazda5

Buy 2009 or 2010 Mazda5....
LOL. You can be a pioneer and revert to a cartridge based filter :D

Also, I though it was 2009.5+ that Mazda went back to canisters? Just wanted to clarify incase others see this and get confused.



A remote oil filter would be ideal to gain capacity with the 51515 because I'm personally not inclined to modify the mount support braces. When looking at the cartridge housing, I feel that some capacity may actually be lost to the OEM canister, but then gained back with the 51516. The cartridge housing actually has quite a bit of volume with the cap. Have you cut open any canister filters to compare to the cartridge (WIX - 2.94" ht. X 2.461 dia.)?
The mod is simply cutting out a very small (and I mean itsy-bitsy) amount of metal that interferers. It will not pose any risk to the structural integrity of the base but I do understand where you are coming from.

Might I ask why you want more oil capacity? Regarding the filter base I’d think of it this way, it is the size of the filter itself that really matters in terms of filtering capacity and quality. Does it matter if the housing unit is the size of a fish tank or the size of a cup? The flow rate restriction is limited to the size of the oil passage and media quality. I’m going off memory here but the replacement OE cartridge filters (the media itself) seem to be about the same size as the regular sized OE canister filter. If you up size of the canister filter, you net more media space inside also; you cannot do this (not that you need too) with a cartridge filter.
 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
Basically it's because I want to run longer (10k+) oil change intervals and be tow capable. More capacity should equal longer oil life and cooler oil temperatures. Being out of warranty I'm not concerned what Mazda says about towing any more, but intend on doing some upgrades/improvements for the sake of reliability, ie - ATF cooler, Firestone rear helper springs, new rear struts, and possibly this conversion. But, per our conversation, this probably doesn't need to be on my towability list unless I can come up with a good location for a remote filter to accommodate the 51515.
 

phunky.buddha

Booga Booga?
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DFW TX
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No mo MZ5 want MX5
I have an extra adapter WITHOUT the top oil cooler fitting if anyone needs it for a 3... got the wrong one off eBay, waited too long to verify fitment and return. :(
 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
After more research I found out that the oil filter adapter for Ford 2.3L Duratec is identical for less than the cost of Mazda.

Adapter: 3S7Z-6881-AA
Gasket: 1S7Z-6840-AA
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
After more research I found out that the oil filter adapter for Ford 2.3L Duratec is identical for less than the cost of Mazda.

Adapter: 3S7Z-6881-AA
Gasket: 1S7Z-6840-AA
Nice find! What's the price difference like?

I suspected they might be the same but never dug into it. When I went to my local Mazda dealer to get a replacment gasket to mount the adapter to my new car, the Mazda parts guy said they were out of stock. He then crossed reference their system (dual Mazda and Ford dealer) and gave me the Ford part # and told he to go across the street b/c they had it in stock. I didn't get it b/c it still cost more than an online vendor. If the Ford parts are cheaper, that would be the way to go!
 
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