- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
Zero issues? So you didn’t do 3 safety recalls? And your rear brakes have no dragging issue from EPB? And I believe your 2016 CX-5 GT doesn’t have problematic optional LED headlights.
High Mileage CX-5s - report in
- Thread starter Kedis82ZE8
- Start date
To replace the transmission filter yes you have to drop the pan. I think I ordered the filter from Rock Auto and it came with a new gasket. Just make sure you scrape away all the old RTV first. The fluid was actually fairly dark. I don't know if this really indicates anything or not. When I did drop the pan on the last refill there were some metal flakes in the pan. However, no issues with the tranny. So far I've only used genuine Mazda fluid too.
- :
- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Say what? No one changes transmission fluid every 5,000 miles, or at least they shouldn't. That's a massive waste of money. A gearbox doesn't see all the combustion vapors and blow-by gasses that engine oil is exposed to, nor is it subjected to near as much compressive and shearing forces. Therefore the fluid generally lasts 30K to 50K miles easily in "normal" gearboxes.
- :
- Cx5
Lol. Not every vehicle is impacted by all “known issues” for a model.
I have a 16,5 with 45k. No recalls. No brake issues since pads were replaced. No DRL issues.
I think what Kaps was asking was about doing a couple drain/fills in short window of mileage to get as much of the old fluid out. Essentially diluting it enough where it's virtually all fresh fluid.
- :
- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Yeah but I thought the general recommendation was to do those drain and refills maybe a couple weeks apart, not 5,000 miles apart.
New around here, but I thought I'd add some information and ask a question.
2013 CX-5 Sport Manual FWD - checking in at 120,000 miles. Bought at 35,000 used with no issues.
Work has included basic scheduled maintenance: replacement of drive belts, coolant flush/replace, spark plug replacement (old spark plugs were still okay, I just opted to replace as its an easy job), and new tires of course after all that driving. Ball joints also needed replaced so I opted to just install completely new control arms with new bushings. Struts still seem to be in decent shape but the bellows are cracked.
I haven't had any transmission issues, but because this is a manual transmission I can't help but think that the transmission fluid may need to be replaced. All that I read online is in regards to ATF drain and replacements.
Does anyone here have any input in regards to the manual transmission fluid drain and replace? The manual I have gives the lifetime fluid line, but just thought I'd see if anyone out there is in a similar situation.
2013 CX-5 Sport Manual FWD - checking in at 120,000 miles. Bought at 35,000 used with no issues.
Work has included basic scheduled maintenance: replacement of drive belts, coolant flush/replace, spark plug replacement (old spark plugs were still okay, I just opted to replace as its an easy job), and new tires of course after all that driving. Ball joints also needed replaced so I opted to just install completely new control arms with new bushings. Struts still seem to be in decent shape but the bellows are cracked.
I haven't had any transmission issues, but because this is a manual transmission I can't help but think that the transmission fluid may need to be replaced. All that I read online is in regards to ATF drain and replacements.
Does anyone here have any input in regards to the manual transmission fluid drain and replace? The manual I have gives the lifetime fluid line, but just thought I'd see if anyone out there is in a similar situation.
Last edited:
- :
- CX5 GT
Manual transmission oil change is easy and drains all out. Probably good idea to change it now. Plus its less quantity and cheaper usually vs automatic. Just find the right viscosity for your car and go with some nice brand or mazda oem if they sell it. 120k miles is near 200k kms.
Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know what type of fluid to use? I can't seem to find that information anywhere.
Folks don't believe me........that 2.0 manual setup is a peppy. It likes to rev.
Manual tranny is easier/cheaper to fix if need be too.
Folks don't believe me........that 2.0 manual setup is a peppy. It likes to rev.
Manual tranny is easier/cheaper to fix if need be too.
Indeed it is. I wouldn't want to to drive an automatic version and have to wait on it to shift for me, but luckily I don't need to worry about that when I drop it down two gears and get going right away. Personally, I really enjoy driving it.
- :
- Denver, CO
I did 3 sessions each a week apart when I did mine since it was the first time at 71k miles.
- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
At 120K miles, I’d consider to change manual transmission gear lubricant but it’s not critical like automatic transmission ATF replacement.
Based on CX-5 owner’s manual, recommended manual transaxle oil is API Service GL-4 with 75W-80 viscosity. The capacity is ”approximately” 1.65 L (1.74 US qt, 1.45 Imp qt). Any name brand gear oil which meets the specs will do. Or simply to get Mazda OEM gear oil with correct specs.
Thanks so much for this!
2014 6 spd manual checking in at 366000kms. Bought it new. Only issues I’ve had were rear brakes seizing up 3 times. Replaced rear calipers once, front wheel bearings as a pair. Everything else still original. I guess keeping it maintained with regular maintenance will keep it running for the foreseeable future. It’s now my long distance travel wagon for when I have to commute to the local base 1.5hrs away. Been trying to sell but everyone thinks a high mileage car is a basket case. Oh well still works great for me!
- :
- Mazda cx5 2013
@merc3065 What kind of maintenance are you doing?
- :
- 2020 CX-5 GT w/PP
Had a 2015 CX-5 Touring AWD, purchased new, traded in at 112,691 miles.
Attached pdf file is maintenance log with mileage noted.
Other than routine maintenance, battery, tires, and windshield replacement, there were just a few issues:
Rear brake pads changed at 61,461 miles.
Driver-side brake light bulb changed at 72,369 miles.
Lift gate dampers replaced per recall, at 77,648 miles.
Serpentine belt, water pump belt, and belt tensioner replaced at 96381 miles, after serpentine belt shredded while driving on the freeway.
Front & Rear brake pads and rotors all replaced at 105,395 miles, due to warped rotors (car would shudder when braking at speeds > 55mph).
Attached pdf file is maintenance log with mileage noted.
Other than routine maintenance, battery, tires, and windshield replacement, there were just a few issues:
Rear brake pads changed at 61,461 miles.
Driver-side brake light bulb changed at 72,369 miles.
Lift gate dampers replaced per recall, at 77,648 miles.
Serpentine belt, water pump belt, and belt tensioner replaced at 96381 miles, after serpentine belt shredded while driving on the freeway.
Front & Rear brake pads and rotors all replaced at 105,395 miles, due to warped rotors (car would shudder when braking at speeds > 55mph).
I've stuck with regular service intervals using royal purple oil, regular service to the brakes and caliper slides. I think it's mostly due to the amount of driving I've done and the fact that 90% of my driving is highway speeds (80kph+) for hours at a time, there's little chance for condensation to build up and regular oil changes means lower chance for sludge to form. I've replaced both front wheel bearings, 1 at around 200000 and the other at 300000. Had to have the tires balanced a couple times to fix some vibration when I bought new ones. Alignment to fix steering off center once. I've had to replace the outdoor temp sensor twice. Once under warranty, and another 2 summers ago. Still on stock suspension components and they aren't leaking, rusty or have excessive play either. Had to replace the heater motor since it got really noisy. Replaced battery a couple years back and keep it on a tender. Had the brake and clutch system flushed 4 times over the years, coolant flushed twice so far, plugs changed out once so far. Tune up is this weekend along with new brakes as the ones on there are pretty crusty. Other than that...Grease everything, spray oil on everything, keep all the fluids changed, keep it clean, put touch up on any rock chips, keep it waxed. Should last for another 366000kms if I am lucky. Replacing the steering wheel this weekend with a new to me used leather one to replace the palm worn one on my original.
Next task is to dig into the front dash duct work to clean it inside and out as a mouse decided to move in while it was in storage and made it pretty smelly in there. I caught the freeloader and evicted it permanently after about 3 days and various traps. Thankfully before it could start making a nest and chewing on everything.
