Not necessarily. Most of the 51,000 of mine are highway and the OE battery only lasted 2.5 years. Cells go bad regardless of frequent charges. You are right though in most cases.I suppose battery life will also be affected by the lenght and regularity of drives.
Short /less frequent driving should result in shorter battery life, as opposed to frequent long drives that charge the battery everytime.
Thanks GAXIBM, I will give it a good wash underneath and see what happens.If you drive a lot on secondary roads be sure to wash and mud/dirt off the inside and outside of the lower panels behind the rear wheels which is where the radar units are that "see" cars in your blind spots. I just ordered replacements for my 2013 GT with over 50,000 miles as the wear bars are showing but most of my miles are interstate miles at 70-75 mph.
I was hoping to find someone with 150K plus but that would mean around 50K per annum and it seems to be typical that there are not many truly high miler CX-5 owners. But this does demonstrate one of my fears: the biggest problem with modern vehicles isn't the traditional basic things, e.g., engine/transmission mechanicals, but "technology" and electricals. The problems I've been reading about with CX5 with transmissions seems to mainly involve something with the computer or solenoids.I own the 2014 Grand Touring with the 2.5l engine and have approximately 43000 miles on the odometer. I had to change the factory tires at 20000 miles. I drive 95% highway miles and the premature wear of the tires could be because of the gravel based roads in east Texas. I currently have the "BSM off" warning light flashing on the dash board. The vehicle is out of warranty and I understand that it is an expensive fix for the "BSM" problem. I am going to disconnect the battery, if this fixes the problem I plan on trading it in for another brand vehicle. This is my first Mazda and I haven't been happy with it. Good luck everyone.
I was hoping to find someone with 150K plus but that would mean around 50K per annum and it seems to be typical that there are not many truly high miler CX-5 owners. But this does demonstrate one of my fears: the biggest problem with modern vehicles isn't the traditional basic things, e.g., engine/transmission mechanicals, but "technology" and electricals. The problems I've been reading about with CX5 with transmissions seems to mainly involve something with the computer or solenoids.
All of my most recent vehicles I've had to trade were electrical/electronic problems that just became to oppressively expensive to continuously track down and fix. Sensors, motors, relays, solenoids, coil towers, ECU's and etc, have been the things that send me back to the dealer showrooms at about 130-150K miles / 11-13 years old.
I'm glad to hear I should expect not to have tranny problems on my '14!...
Learn a little soldering and basic electronics knowledge and save a lot of money
I fixed my hot tub last year... let's see $800+ spa pack replacement or $20 relay.
That IACV was a problem area on the '00-'01 Maxima's. My CX-5 replaced a '02 Maxima GLE I bought new.... other than eating pads and rotors every 20K miles, one oxygen sensor and one cam position sensor it was quite reliable. I lucked out that mine wasn't one of the VQ35DE oil burners. IMO..the VQ30DE in your car was mechanically a solid motor.I'm glad to hear I should expect not to have tranny problems on my '14!
I try to fix everything I can... but a $20 anti-knock sensor can still require major disassembly beyond my resources to access. On my most-recent debacle (Maxima) I replaced coil towers, MAF, oxygen sensors twice, alternator, starter, transmission solenoids, electronic motor mounts. Power seats were locked in position and the windows and mirrors were iffy at best. I was planning a suspension rebuild when the IACV blew taking the ECU with it (terrible design: FET drivers on the ECU with no protection in them) at 140K. A replacement ECU guaranteed to work with my VIN was $2000 (junk yard replacements are iffy gambles for a variety of reasons). The motor and transmission were perfect, it was clean and otherwise solid. I'm sure this would have been a fun car even at 200K if it weren't for that ECU.
It needed a sway bar in back and a FSTB in front to make handling even approach the quality of the engine, but once done I really enjoyed driving that Maxima. I come from a day when it was not unexpected to put a can of oil in at every gas fill-up so I'd not have considered dumping a car just for burning a little oil. The whole point is that automotive mechanicals are, generally, very solid these days: it's the electronics that drive me crazy and end up making me junk it. Very sad and unnecessary if mfr's just put half as much effort into spec'ing solid designs for electricals and/or locating things that require replacement in easier to reach locations.That IACV was a problem area on the '00-'01 Maxima's. My CX-5 replaced a '02 Maxima GLE I bought new.... other than eating pads and rotors every 20K miles, one oxygen sensor and one cam position sensor it was quite reliable. I lucked out that mine wasn't one of the VQ35DE oil burners. IMO..the VQ30DE in your car was mechanically a solid motor.
Thanks for checking in! It's rare for people to spend the time reporting no unexpected problems. Mostly we hear from people who have a gripe!2013 2wd Touring, 2.0l automatic, purchased June of 2012. As of 12/2015 have 62,000.
Repaired: Shaking side view mirrors both fixed under service bulletin (problem on earliest model).
Replaced: Engine air filter at 40,000 - solved slight hesitation from stop: $12
Replaced: Yoko tires with Michelins from CostCo at 60,000 (snow coming here, in desert could've gone another 10,000 miles): $600
Replaced: Windshield wipers at about 50,000: $22 Amazon
Of course: Oil changes (self-done) every 6-7,000 miles: $25 Mobil 1 oil @Wal plus $6 eBay Mazda filter in bulk
Gas mileage (measured in full tanks):
Suburban summer 29-31 mpg - very consistent
Pure highway summer 33-35 mpg at 60-75mph (loaded with gear and bikes on back)
Suburban winter 27-30 mpg - very dependent on temperature, lowest ever was 26 mpg when near zero Fahrenheit
When new: Mazda rear cargo shade, works excellent
When new: Mazda remote start, terrible design, waste of $400
When new: Tech package, love blind spot warning beeps and adaptive headlights. Navigation works, though with design faults and slow.
Added back-floor cargo net with 4 hooks (originally for a Chrysler): $7 delivered eBay
Added 3M clear door edge tape to hood, 4 doors, and rear lift: $25 for 2 rolls Amazon
Door arm rests showed wear within 2,000 miles, understand they changed them for 2014. A damp wipe helps.
Back lift where bike rack rubs and where garage door closed while lift was up. oops. $12 eBay touch-up paint.
Some pitting on front plastic bumper from stones, touch-up paint.
Not a single rattle, very very little wind noise
Other than stone dings paint looks like new, self-wash monthly and self-wax twice a year.