High Mileage CX-5s - report in

Kedis82ZE8

Contributor
V
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
Second day of being warranty free.. I feel like the motor overall will be reliable for me even with the really small TC cover leak. I think if anything goes it will be the AT or the rear diff if I experience a catastrophic failure. The front transfer seems to be fairly solid. At least Mazda made a lot of vehicles with the same drivetrain parts. Used parts on major components should be reasonable in cost.
 
V
CX-5 2016.5
Do the old and the new shift the same?
It's worse actually as she's still learning, but overall it's the same. Very "sticky" - 9 times of 10 it wouldn't downshift when I need it to, unless I really floor it - and then she goes down 2 gears at once with all the jerkiness involved. "Sport" mode is a hit and miss with me - it makes everything peppy-er, but unless you floor it all the time - there's also a tendency to stick and the engine brake is always on - which isn't always necessary. I'm also finding the new one a bit harsher - say when I'm shifting from P into R or D. My original one was smoother.

The gist of it - I'm so used to driving manuals that any "modern" AT optimised for fuel efficiency - annoys the hell of me. My wife's 2nd gen Mazda 3 AT with 2L!!!! shifts a lot better actually and is much more fun to drive. No Skyactive horse-rubbish... The way I see it - I either need to get something manual (and there isn't much out there with comparable back space) or something with a V6/8 - which will dampen the inherent idiocy of automatics.
 

Kedis82ZE8

Contributor
V
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
I never thought about it before but that is probably why AT temps stay in-line even when towing in the CX-5. In my experience AT's in locked up mode and lower gears don't really generate any heat in my experience. In my GX 460 on a grade un-locked you can watch temps climb but in lockup temps start to drop. I'm going to be towing my boat with CX-5 over local pass on Friday. I'm gonna pay attention again to AT temps under heavier load.


LOL. I watched a YouTube engineering video on the SkyActiv transmission somebody shared here. They engineered the transmission to have the torque converter locked as much as possible while driving. There is not much slipping at all when engaging or disengaging like a traditional transmission which allowed a small bump in efficiency.
 
V
CX5 GT-R
I never thought about it before but that is probably why AT temps stay in-line even when towing in the CX-5. In my experience AT's in locked up mode and lower gears don't really generate any heat in my experience. In my GX 460 on a grade un-locked you can watch temps climb but in lockup temps start to drop. I'm going to be towing my boat with CX-5 over local pass on Friday. I'm gonna pay attention again to AT temps under heavier load.
This is part of why I kept saying the CX5 doesn't need a fluid change, and why used ATF analysis seems to prove me right every time, with the fluid showing similar wear as a conventional automatic with 300% less miles on it. I'm glad others are starting to dig into the actual mechanics of it a bit further, as well.
 
V
CX5 GT-R
It's worse actually as she's still learning, but overall it's the same. Very "sticky" - 9 times of 10 it wouldn't downshift when I need it to, unless I really floor it - and then she goes down 2 gears at once with all the jerkiness involved. "Sport" mode is a hit and miss with me - it makes everything peppy-er, but unless you floor it all the time - there's also a tendency to stick and the engine brake is always on - which isn't always necessary. I'm also finding the new one a bit harsher - say when I'm shifting from P into R or D. My original one was smoother.

The gist of it - I'm so used to driving manuals that any "modern" AT optimised for fuel efficiency - annoys the hell of me. My wife's 2nd gen Mazda 3 AT with 2L!!!! shifts a lot better actually and is much more fun to drive. No Skyactive horse-rubbish... The way I see it - I either need to get something manual (and there isn't much out there with comparable back space) or something with a V6/8 - which will dampen the inherent idiocy of automatics.
Weird. Mine have both shifted great, and this is coming from a sports car background. Visiting a friend of mine right now who has a '19 STi, and he loves the auto in my CX5's shift logic.
 

sxa

V
2014 Mazda CX-5 FWD Touring, 2016 CX-3 FWD Grand Touring
Haven't posted on the forums in awhile. My 2014 CX-5 has 99,000 on it. Current plan is to drive it until something major happens or the Mazda 6 Wagon comes to the states (which may never happen).
 
V
2014 CX-5 Touring
Haven't posted on the forums in awhile. My 2014 CX-5 has 99,000 on it. Current plan is to drive it until something major happens or the Mazda 6 Wagon comes to the states (which may never happen).
We're not far behind. Just over 96K on our 2014 also!
 

Fish1

Contributor
V
Mazda 2014 CX-5 GT AWD w/tech
2014 CX5 AWD with Tech package (83K miles)

My issues:

Lower control arm at 32K miles
Over heats when running in traffic with AC on
squeaking in rear of car when going over some bumps
gas mileage on same commute has gone from 28.5MPG to 24.5MPG
Error code P011A comes and goes still chasing this down
Lots of surface rust on under carriage
Front window breaks easy about every 20K miles
Paint seems very thin and scratches easy
 
2014 CX5. 103,500 miles.
Tranny drain and fill
Transfer case drain and fill
Rear diff drain and fill
New front and rear pads with powerstop drilled and slotted rotors
Gear shift console light bulb
Gear shift shifter switch replaced $58 instead of dealer $400+. Known CX-5 issue
 
170k miles, 275k km. Just went for an oil change. About a year ago my transmission was on its way out, was told this was due to the amount of high speed, highway driving I do. Replaced it with one that had 40,000km on it. Other issues I'm aware of include, the fact the car doesn't register that it is in park, and I have to shake the shifter to get it to register. Front strut boots are completely destroyed, but this has been for over a year and a half and everything has been looking fine underneath.
 
170k miles, 275k km. Just went for an oil change. About a year ago my transmission was on its way out, was told this was due to the amount of high speed, highway driving I do. Replaced it with one that had 40,000km on it. Other issues I'm aware of include, the fact the car doesn't register that it is in park, and I have to shake the shifter to get it to register. Front strut boots are completely destroyed, but this has been for over a year and a half and everything has been looking fine underneath.
170k on a transmission seems good. I would think highway driving would be better than city stop and go.
 
V
CX5 GT +pp 2018
Think its all about oil temp, torque and rpms which usually wears the gearbox.
Still 170k miles is impressive if never changed the gearbox oil.
 
V
Mazda CX5 GT
2013 Mazda CX5 GT. 110km.

What should I prioritized to do on the following.

1. Replace belts (one is the serpentine and another small belt)
2. Tranny oil
3. transfer case oil change
4. rear diff oil change

what else should I be aware to replace?
 
V
Mazda CX5 GT
2014 CX5. 103,500 miles.
Tranny drain and fill
Transfer case drain and fill
Rear diff drain and fill
New front and rear pads with powerstop drilled and slotted rotors
Gear shift console light bulb
Gear shift shifter switch replaced $58 instead of dealer $400+. Known CX-5 issue
Gear shift shifter switch replaced $58 instead of dealer $400+ << is this the one where the radio does not turn off?
 
V
2014 CX-5 GT
At close to 140K miles on my 2014 CX5 and in need of new tires, rotors and pads. Big bill coming up. But honestly, this will be the first major thing.

I am not sure if it is me or what, but I go through lots of tires on this thing. This will technically be my 4th set of tires. The Toyo's (original), Duelers (2nd), Michelins (3rd) and whatever is next (looking to go cheap!).
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg. Plano, TX
Contributor
L
Plano, Texas, USA
V
16 CX-5 GT AWD Tec
2013 Mazda CX5 GT. 110km.

What should I prioritized to do on the following.

1. Replace belts (one is the serpentine and another small belt)
2. Tranny oil
3. transfer case oil change
4. rear diff oil change

what else should I be aware to replace?
If you havent changed the ATF since new, if I were you I may have some hesitation to change (drain-and-fill) the ATF. If I decided to do it, I may consider taking the ATF pan down to replace the ATF filter cartridge inside.

For serpentine belt and water pump belt replacement, you may want to replace the tensioner even if its not leaking.

You need 2 quarts of Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 as in addition to 0.45 quarts for front transfer case, the rear differential needs ~0.8 quarts instead of 0.45 quarts specified in owners manual.
 

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