Interesting to hear that about MBQ. I was big into car audio in the mid 90's and MBQ was one of my favorites. Focal was just becoming known in the US around then, I built some really nice systems using Focal stuff that people had never heard of before. I haven't installed anything more than a head unit in the last 10 years though.
Frames' Mazda5 Build / Maintenance Thread
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I was thinking another component set in the sliders would be ideal too.
I keep reading bad reviews about the lower end MBQ's but the high ends seem to be all good. 5 stars every time. The construction and technology seem to be on par with focal too. I guess the ones in the link above aren't the same I had in my Passat (those suckers were $600/pr) but should be their predecessors. I drool when I look at them, and the reviews get me hyped, but I'm nervous about the bad publicity.
HEY MBQ LOVERS, LOOK WHAT I JUST FOUND: http://www.german-maestro.de/EN/company.htm
There is a local dealer here in Portland too. I may have to go have a listen. I bet they are really expensive though, so I think the Polk Audio DB6501 will probably be my final choice. I read these are the best all around 6.5 component set out there.
I keep reading bad reviews about the lower end MBQ's but the high ends seem to be all good. 5 stars every time. The construction and technology seem to be on par with focal too. I guess the ones in the link above aren't the same I had in my Passat (those suckers were $600/pr) but should be their predecessors. I drool when I look at them, and the reviews get me hyped, but I'm nervous about the bad publicity.
HEY MBQ LOVERS, LOOK WHAT I JUST FOUND: http://www.german-maestro.de/EN/company.htm
There is a local dealer here in Portland too. I may have to go have a listen. I bet they are really expensive though, so I think the Polk Audio DB6501 will probably be my final choice. I read these are the best all around 6.5 component set out there.
I may have spoken too soon. I just found an online retailer for them, and there is a sub $300 set. But seriously the prices are through the roof as I though.
For anybody else interested:
http://www.wwstereo.com/German-Maestro/Products/?category=Car-Speakers
I'm thinking these are probably winners:
http://www.wwstereo.com/German-Maestro/CS-6508-IV
I can even power them with one of the compact amps I was looking at.
For anybody else interested:
http://www.wwstereo.com/German-Maestro/Products/?category=Car-Speakers
I'm thinking these are probably winners:
http://www.wwstereo.com/German-Maestro/CS-6508-IV
I can even power them with one of the compact amps I was looking at.
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Haha. I have roadside for both cars, but hate waiting for a tow-truck.
Anyways. I just read an interesting article on proper car sound staging. Rear speakers aren't worth a damn. I can leave them alone, in fact I took a nice vocal heavy (Luca Turilli) cd and went out to the car and adjusted the fade to F4 and it really does sound a lot better. Can't wait to finish hooking up the sub. Looks like I can splurge a little more on my components, since only 1 set for each of my cars is going to be required. I was considering that I would need 4 sets of 6.5 components, and that's why I was working with a lower budget.
I will see what it sounds like after my Raammat package arrives next week and I get that all in.
Still need to add a subwoofer in the Jetta too, since I stole that one for the 5.
I got the power and ground run, I just need to figure out how to get the level inputs run to the passenger side from the seat that it's in. Probably going to drill some more ventilation holes too before hooking it up. Got some Jetta projects this weekend, like wire up it's 4-channel amp, test mount and adjust the new projector retrofit headlights, change oil, so finishing up my sub is going to the back-burner since I only see my Jetta on the weekends now.
Anyways. I just read an interesting article on proper car sound staging. Rear speakers aren't worth a damn. I can leave them alone, in fact I took a nice vocal heavy (Luca Turilli) cd and went out to the car and adjusted the fade to F4 and it really does sound a lot better. Can't wait to finish hooking up the sub. Looks like I can splurge a little more on my components, since only 1 set for each of my cars is going to be required. I was considering that I would need 4 sets of 6.5 components, and that's why I was working with a lower budget.
I will see what it sounds like after my Raammat package arrives next week and I get that all in.
Still need to add a subwoofer in the Jetta too, since I stole that one for the 5.
I got the power and ground run, I just need to figure out how to get the level inputs run to the passenger side from the seat that it's in. Probably going to drill some more ventilation holes too before hooking it up. Got some Jetta projects this weekend, like wire up it's 4-channel amp, test mount and adjust the new projector retrofit headlights, change oil, so finishing up my sub is going to the back-burner since I only see my Jetta on the weekends now.
That is correct - rear speakers are fill, not soundstage. Even in pure SQ installs, there's still reasons to have them though. But $1k components aren't required by a long shot.
Assuming that you have some kind of car that sees use other than a car audio trailer queen, it's not a bad idea to have rear fill speakers that you can turn up a bit for the occasion that you carry passengers.
Assuming that you have some kind of car that sees use other than a car audio trailer queen, it's not a bad idea to have rear fill speakers that you can turn up a bit for the occasion that you carry passengers.
The Jetta has 6.5 components stock in both doors. I can hear the rear tweeters slightly from the drivers seat; but I'm 34, I don't go bar hopping with 5 people in my car anymore, so it's a waste since the later mk4 OEM VW speakers are actually very good and kept right up with my 3 JL Audio 10's. They are expensive though, so I can spend $300 on aftermarket components before I break OEM price. They are starting to show age, so I'm in the market and I figure I'll just get both cars sorted.
I do agree, though that in the Mazda I will eventually want to do the rears, since the most important reason we bought it was that it could seat 6 and my father-in-law is also an audiophile. In that case it will be useful, and that's the reason I was thinking add another set of components in the rear, was purely for the rear passengers.
The 5 speakers are a joke. I'm not going to wait 10 years on those. But now I can save that money from a rear set of speakers and get that cool rear K-Style valence. https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Really want that thing.
I do agree, though that in the Mazda I will eventually want to do the rears, since the most important reason we bought it was that it could seat 6 and my father-in-law is also an audiophile. In that case it will be useful, and that's the reason I was thinking add another set of components in the rear, was purely for the rear passengers.
The 5 speakers are a joke. I'm not going to wait 10 years on those. But now I can save that money from a rear set of speakers and get that cool rear K-Style valence. https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Really want that thing.
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I went to Car Toys today because I was too lazy to run the high-level inputs to the powered sub. I got a chance to hear the Focal 165 AS and ISS 165 and I'm a believer. Focals are definitely going in all my cars. They are absolutely incredible, and put every JL Audio, Alpine, and Infinity to shame. Those aren't even the expensive ones, these are the sub-$300 sets. I actually found them (ISS165 and 165AS) to sound better than the more expensive Focal sets.
Are you going to use 6.5's that you listened to? You'll need to build a mount/baffle/adapter, but that's pretty simple (at least in the other cars I've done it in, I've not had the doors off the 5 yet).
What did you like about the ISS and AS? (since we all have different tastes)
What did you like about the ISS and AS? (since we all have different tastes)
Sadly the 165AS won't fit either of my cars, so I just ordered a pair of the 130AS for my Jetta, they are the same, but 5.25" and less of a pain to fit. If those are to my liking (they ought to be as the 5 star reviewer also loves them for metal) I will just use those on the 5 since they should be an easy fit with the provided brackets.
The clarity of those speakers is amazing, the other speakers (JL Audio, Infinity, and other Focals) sounded really dull in comparison even with the eq set the same. I'm fairly certain it's the materials used that makes the difference to me. I was using pop alternative (94.7) and classical (89.9) to test with since those come closest to the classical, metal, and punk rock they are going to be filling my happy ears with. You could hear every note of every instrument so vividly. I'm supplementing with a sub, so I don't really care about trying to force base out of my door speakers where it doesn't belong anyways.
I got my sub hooked up today and I'm not 100% happy and I think that's due to using speaker-level inputs. I know it could be better, so looks like a line-out converter is going to be in my near future.
The clarity of those speakers is amazing, the other speakers (JL Audio, Infinity, and other Focals) sounded really dull in comparison even with the eq set the same. I'm fairly certain it's the materials used that makes the difference to me. I was using pop alternative (94.7) and classical (89.9) to test with since those come closest to the classical, metal, and punk rock they are going to be filling my happy ears with. You could hear every note of every instrument so vividly. I'm supplementing with a sub, so I don't really care about trying to force base out of my door speakers where it doesn't belong anyways.
I got my sub hooked up today and I'm not 100% happy and I think that's due to using speaker-level inputs. I know it could be better, so looks like a line-out converter is going to be in my near future.
I paid premium for integrated bluetooth and steering wheel controls. Factor in the extra cost of components for interfacing with factory controls then no, it really isn't very cost effective. Don't forget to factor in the money already spent on the extra bluetooth and steering wheel controls that is nullified, and it really becomes expensive. I can do a great 6 channel line out converter (though 4 should suffice) cheaper than a good receiver.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
If you limit yourself to local roads, then yes this is the way to go. BUT, say you are driving along the top of the Shenandoah mountains and discover you have a huge bulge on the tire sidewall, a spare sure comes in handy
. At a min, make sure you have a spare when trekking to unknown territory. Otherwise, a plug kit + 12v mini air compressor is good insurance. I can understand your perspective as I feel the same way. Most aftermarket HU’s do poor sound processing anyway. IMO, only gains are flashy screens and maybe a little more bells and whistles but nothing worth putting money into. The factory HU is also integrated into the display panel so loosing it also means loosing a display (or gaining a blank). There's nothing a proper AMP + EQ can't fix to make the stock HU perform better than the aftermarket. You will end up with more bulk but also more customization/control.
I found this guys thread when I was researching automatic EQs -Behringer DEQ2496 is some good stuff. Not specifically for car use but that can be fixed.
http://myamanari.blogspot.com/2011/08/diy-car-audio-with-digital-graphic.html
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I disagree about the sound quality of aftermarket HU. "a proper amp and eq" can't fix a poor source (e.g. speaker-to-line level converters)
Without discussing unique one-off alternative's (like SN's adaptation of home audio rack-mount processors), a HU with proper 4, 6, or 8V line outs will be a better source from the beginning.
And some of the "flash" is no longer just flashy crap like dancing lights. HU's often have true parametric EQ's and crossovers built in, crossovers built-in for your line-outs, and new android HU's have the ability to run apps - I'd love to have an android HU and run the Torque app to have my gauges for coolant temp, AFR, boost, etc, right there in the dash.
Losing the OEM integration like the display panel is a definite drawback. There are adapters made to enable use of factory steering wheel switches - though there have been a few threads here about issues with them, IIRC.
Without discussing unique one-off alternative's (like SN's adaptation of home audio rack-mount processors), a HU with proper 4, 6, or 8V line outs will be a better source from the beginning.
And some of the "flash" is no longer just flashy crap like dancing lights. HU's often have true parametric EQ's and crossovers built in, crossovers built-in for your line-outs, and new android HU's have the ability to run apps - I'd love to have an android HU and run the Torque app to have my gauges for coolant temp, AFR, boost, etc, right there in the dash.
Losing the OEM integration like the display panel is a definite drawback. There are adapters made to enable use of factory steering wheel switches - though there have been a few threads here about issues with them, IIRC.
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True, but you have to go pretty high end before you get one with good equalizing abilities. I paid 600 for my old Pioneer that allowed full range adjustments. Also the RMS value of 90% aftermarket HUs is only about 5-10 W higher that newer factory HUs.
I am not risking my steering wheel controls, and the only adapter I would even consider is the Corksport which runs $140. I can get an eq and line-out converter still less than the cost of "upgrading" my head unit to a good one.
As an electrical engineer, I will say this, decks may have low-level preouts, but the converting is still going on, just internally rather than externally, so I don't think that "better from the source" really holds water.
It would be cool to see some genuine experiments though.
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I am open to convincing though, but I'm sure that each manufacturer is different and probably that design info is proprietary.
I suppose if the hu has a separate signal processor for low and high level inputs internally, then adding one more on the end of one, could cause a slight delay as opposed to just running out of one or the other directly. I doubt it would be noticeable to the human ear though.
I suppose if the hu has a separate signal processor for low and high level inputs internally, then adding one more on the end of one, could cause a slight delay as opposed to just running out of one or the other directly. I doubt it would be noticeable to the human ear though.
