Guide Found a successful Drive Cycle formula!

50poundbrain

Member
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1996 626 DX
Will it solve your problems? I don't know, but it worked for me! I did have to run it twice to clear everything but "Catalyst", but Utah allows one I/M sensor to be "Not Ready" and still pass inspection. I also "Faked" a cold soak by hooking up a 0-1000 ohm variable resistor in series with the coolant temp sensor so I could run a drive cycle, shut the car off, put the full 1000 ohms resistance in the temp sensor circuit (the ECM then thinks the engine is cold), turn the resistor form 1000 down to 0 ohms (now reading the actual temp sensor signal), and run the drive cycle again. From a Miata forum I found via Google:

Here is a Mazda drive cycle:

Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)

1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.

Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.
 
Will it solve your problems? I don't know, but it worked for me! I did have to run it twice to clear everything but "Catalyst", but Utah allows one I/M sensor to be "Not Ready" and still pass inspection. I also "Faked" a cold soak by hooking up a 0-1000 ohm variable resistor in series with the coolant temp sensor so I could run a drive cycle, shut the car off, put the full 1000 ohms resistance in the temp sensor circuit (the ECM then thinks the engine is cold), turn the resistor form 1000 down to 0 ohms (now reading the actual temp sensor signal), and run the drive cycle again. From a Miata forum I found via Google:

Here is a Mazda drive cycle:

Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)

1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.

Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.
Followed steps for my 2012 cx9 and it worked! Thanks for the awesome tips!
 
Thank you Internet Strangers. This was so helpful. For “idle with the cooling fan off” I just turned off the heater and a/c.
 
In that exact order, yes, has been my experience. However, I've sometimes had to pause in between each step because of traffic or road conditions but I've done it all in that one drive. I've driven more time that what the cycle recommends (by a few minutes), once again because of traffic and such, but it hasn't negatively affected the outcome. I have noticed on my Protege I have to do it more than once for it to ready set the sensors.
 
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