FMIC issues!

milocas

Member
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
Okay guys.. new to this forum. I got a speed 6 two weeks ago. And doing some things to it. Ive had a 02 wrx before, so i know my stuff about the turbo and bov stuff. Installing the Cold side was a pita for me. But I got it. Anyways! I pulled the neg wire from battery, open doors to drain any voltage in the car. Re connected it, and fired her up. She started up like normal, and idled roughly, but corrected itself. I think there is a leak somewhere to be idling rough. Once warmed up, I took her for a spin, about 2 miles kept it below 2500 Rpms. I than rip it in 3rd and as soon as it past 3000 to 3350rpm, bog out like crazy and backfired a lot of times! I shifted into 4th and tried it one more, bog alittle, but pulled fine. While on the drive back home, my cel and traction light came on. I'm stumped right now. Help please? Current mods are,*fmic, custom intake, test pipe and muffler delete. I am running my bov on full atmosphere and capped the intake end.
 
...now I may just be stupid but I thought we had to have our BOV vent 50/50 and not full atmosphere? Just trying to help! :)
 
Yes, i knew i had to cap that end. I went over all my piping, Everything is solid tight. But while i was under the hood.. i thought of something! I was moving my intake around and sure enough, my maf sensor was barely on! Pluged it in all the way. First this i noticed was the traction light turned off. Second, start up much better. Third, after like 10miles, cel is off. Soo everything is running fine. But! Its idles roughly, like itll drop below like 600rpm, than jump to 900 than vise versa, but than itll be steady. Im thinking its the bov, might need to connect the hose maybe? Where should i check my vaccum lines? Thanks guys!
 
Likely because u need to relocate your maf so it is not measuring air before your vta vents the pressure off. If you were to relocate your maf sensor to after the bov, say the elbow(not ideal) attaching to the throttle body, it should idle/shift fine.
 
Yeah, I'd say you are confusing the hell out of the ECU; you're venting metered air so I'm guessing you'd be running way too rich. As they sit, these cars were meant to have a bpv, not a bov. And before everyone else says it, you need some means of monitoring what the ECU is seeing. The preferred method is an AP, because you can also tune with it. A particular thing to watch is CDFP pressure. Below 1600 at WOT is the current favorite cause of zoom zoom boom. Before I did anything else, I'd buy an AP and upgrade the fuel pump internals.
 
I got everything figure out after seeing a pipe blowing out! i guess i didnt tight up my cold said, so when i WOT it from 3rd to 4th, my elbow from the core blew out. its all fixed right now, idles fine (Spark plugs were s***) but everything is perfect now. pulls alot harder. and i am currently looking for an AP. i had a wrx before and had a AP and i manage the map to my liking. most likely same thing ill be doing than. but im glad shes up.
 
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