Fluid Levels from Manufacture?

[leocheng]

Hi All,

I know the car is shipped from Japan. Does CX5 ship with full level of engine, transmission, and brake/clutch oil, and full coolant level out of manufacture? or These are added by dealer?

Here is why I ask the question.

I bought a new 2020 CX5 GT today (2 miles of mileage before test drive). However, I noticed the windshield washer fluid warning light is on when I arrive at home. When I open the hood, I noticed the fluid is only at 10-15% level in the windshield washer fluid reservoir. It has been very dark, so I did not inspect other fluids level.

I wonder whether it is caused by the dealer technician omitting to add the windshield fluid? or more devastating, leaking of some sort. I will find out tomorrow as I add windshield fluid to full.

However, if it is a technician omission, I wonder whether he also omits other fluids? That is why I asked whether anyone knows that the car ships out of manufacture with full level of engine, transmission, and brake/clutch oil, and full coolant level.

Thanks.

 

[ruthrj]

I'm fairly certain ALL of the vital fluids like coolant, engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid are from the factory. Each vehicle has to be tested after assembly. It wouldn’t make any sense to drain those fluids back out for export and refill by a dealership. High levels of molybdenum in the first oil fill are a confirmation it is from the factory as it comes from assembly grease.

Washer fluid however could very easily be something the dealer fills. What is in that reservoir was probably just enough to verify no leaks in the washer fluid lines and that the pump works.

 

[leocheng]

Any recommendation for windshield washer fluid, or just any regular windshield washer fluid? I just notice (after I bought the GT trim), the car comes with rain sensing. Does it makes any difference in terms of topping the fluid?

 

[cz5gt]

if you use the wipers a lot yes. usually in the winter months I guess up to you.
the fluid and the rains sensors are not connected. Rain sensor only triggers the wipers when its raining but not the washers.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯
However, if it is a technician omission, I wonder whether he also omits other fluids? That is why I asked whether anyone knows that the car ships out of manufacture with full level of engine, transmission, and brake/clutch oil, and full coolant level.

This really depends on each dealer’s new vehicle prep practice. And the fluid levels would vary among different models from factory. For Mazda CX-5, 2.5L usually comes from factory with below the FULL/MAX mark on engine oil level, but at or higher than FULL/MAX mark on 2.5T. Engine coolant level is below the FULL line of the overflow reservoir from factory, so as the windshield washer fluid. Brake fluid is at the FULL mark of the reservoir from factory. Transmission comes from factory with below the required ATF level based on member’s reports here. Rear differential gear oil is way below the fill-hole, but front transfer case is at the fill-hole from factory.

In summary, all fluids in CX-5 are filled differently from factory and can be way off from Mazda’s approximate fluid capacity specs such as 66.6% off on rear differential gear oil.

Mazda dealers usually won’t do any top-offs during the new vehicle preparation to those easy-to-see or easy-to-check fluids as long as they're within the range as those fluids are at dealer’s cost and some may be expensive. Dealers won’t check fluid levels on transmission、front transfer case、rear differential as these simply are too difficult to check comparatively, and the OEM fluids are too expensive if these need to be topped off.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

Based on my experience with a brand new CX-5 and a nearly new MX-5, plus the info from this site and the experience of others reported here.

These cars come from the factory with;

engine - Oil level between the min and max marks. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same.

transmission - I have not checked mine but others have reported this as being low from the factory as shown on the dipstick.

brake/clutch oil - Brake fluid at the full mark. No clutch fluid with an automatic trans. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same.

coolant - Mine was low and needed topping off. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same. Make sure that if you're adding coolant that you use the correct type! Mixing types of coolant is a bad thing. FL22 is what is required.


When I purchased my MX it was obvious that someone had topped the coolant off with something other than FL22 because the coolant in the overflow tank was very murky. I drained the entire cooling system, flushed, and refilled with 55/45% FL22/distilled water.

 

[DwightFrye]

After I got home with my new 2019 GT-R I checked everything. The tire pressure was at 45 lbs.Too high. Should have read at about 38 lbs after a freeway run.
All fluids were topped off including the battery water. I didn't check the transmission fluid as that is a rather involved process. I wish Mazda had engineered in a dipstick that could be checked from the engine compartment.
What threw me was looking for the power steering fluid reservoir. Then I figured out that the car had electric steering.
I don't know what Mazda uses for the windshield washer fluid, but as I live in the mountains and get occasional snow I bought a jug of fluid that is rated for freezing temperatures at NAPA for when it is time to top it off.

 

[Jmaz]

Based on my experience with a brand new CX-5 and a nearly new MX-5, plus the info from this site and the experience of others reported here.

These cars come from the factory with;

engine - Oil level between the min and max marks. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same.

transmission - I have not checked mine but others have reported this as being low from the factory as shown on the dipstick.

brake/clutch oil - Brake fluid at the full mark. No clutch fluid with an automatic trans. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same.

coolant - Mine was low and needed topping off. I observed this first hand and others have reported the same. Make sure that if you're adding coolant that you use the correct type! Mixing types of coolant is a bad thing. FL22 is what is required.


When I purchased my MX it was obvious that someone had topped the coolant off with something other than FL22 because the coolant in the overflow tank was very murky. I drained the entire cooling system, flushed, and refilled with 55/45% FL22/distilled water.

If you added 45% distilled water,where did you get full strength FL22.I thought it only came in 50/50 premix.

 

[Mazdiod2]

I'd say dealer prep should have taken care of those issues. That's what the fee is for.

 

[murky]

I'd say dealer prep should have taken care of those issues. That's what the fee is for.

The fee is for profit. They should sell the car ready to drive. All the little fees are BS. Surprised they don't have a "New Employee Orientation Fee". Or "Showroom Illumination fee".

 

[yrwei52]

If you added 45% distilled water,where did you get full strength FL22.I thought it only came in 50/50 premix.

Conrad 16.5 could mean he used OEM pre-diluted 55/45 FL22 coolant? But I agree, I really wish Mazda can keep offering pure OEM FL22 coolant which they’d stopped selling so that after the flush with distilled water, we can easily to pour in a half of the pure FL22 with specified coolant capacity to make a perfect 50/50 coolant. Or can we really trust the approximate coolant capacity given by Mazda anyway?

 

[yrwei52]

I'd say dealer prep should have taken care of those issues. That's what the fee is for.

My Mazda dealer did peel the protection films and clean-up salt-protection hot wax spray on car body, washed the car throughly, removed plastic covers on seats and carpet, put back the head rests and carpet floor mats, vacuumed the whole interior, did a visual check on those fluids in engine bay, topped off the windshield washer fluid, checked the torque of tire lug nuts and tire pressure, put the wheel caps on, and handed me a check list where I can see at least a half of the items didn’t do but checked. I stopped the guy drilling 2 holes on front bumper for dealer’s plate and future license plate though.

Yes, dealer prep for a new vehicle should do a better job but my Mazda dealer’s prep is sufficient to me.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

If you added 45% distilled water,where did you get full strength FL22.I thought it only came in 50/50 premix.

Conrad 16.5 could mean he used OEM pre-diluted 55/45 FL22 coolant? But I agree, I really wish Mazda can keep offering pure OEM FL22 coolant which they’d stopped selling so that after the flush with distilled water, we can easily to pour in a half of the pure FL22 with specified coolant capacity to make a perfect 50/50 coolant. Or can we really trust the approximate coolant capacity given by Mazda anyway?

Nope, I did not mean that I used the OEM pre-diluted stuff. I used this 100% concentrate.

Again, this was in my MX-5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

For topping off the CX-5 I used the OEM premix that was mentioned above by Yrwei52.

 

[Jmaz]

Nope, I did not mean that I used the OEM pre-diluted stuff. I used this 100% concentrate.

Again, this was in my MX-5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

For topping off the CX-5 I used the OEM premix that was mentioned above by Yrwei52.

Thanks for clarifying.I missed the MX-5 reference but it's still 100%, only it's Ravenol.I used the premix Asian blue Zerex for my coolant change.

 

[hal2]

The fee is for profit. They should sell the car ready to drive. All the little fees are BS. Surprised they don't have a "New Employee Orientation Fee". Or "Showroom Illumination fee".

A bit off topic. - On high demand/low supply cars, I respect a dealer more that at least has the integrity to add at the bottom on the window sticker "ADM" or "Additional Dealer Markup". I remember that on a 1985 CRX Si.

 

[Jmaz]

Yes, I remember that additional markup. A company transfer took me to California in 1985 and I needed a new car. The Honda and Toyota dealers were not bashful about adding in plain sight a $2000-3000 premium above MSRP on the sticker. Never saw so many Japanese cars until moving to CA.

 

[murky]

A bit off topic. - On high demand/low supply cars, I respect a dealer more that at least has the integrity to add at the bottom on the window sticker "ADM" or "Additional Dealer Markup". I remember that on a 1985 CRX Si.

Agreed. Better to be honest and say they are charging it because they can, rather than saying they charge it because they must.