Fitment issues with 2017 MZ3 16" OEM Wheels [Solved]

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Small Update

I bought some 5mm wheel spacers off Amazon (these), and just got them in the mail today. It's a bit too rainy at the moment to put them on with the wheels and test the fitment, but I did lay them on top of the inner hub of the new wheels which are under a shelter right now, and this is what it looks like:
IMG_20200215_135313675.jpg

IMG_20200215_135316149.jpg


It's kind of bothering me that the spacers aren't the same outer diameter as the hubs of the wheels and of the car.

It doesn't look like it would be super problematic, but I've never run spacers before. Does anyone see this as a safety risk, and should I expect most spacers to be like this? If not, I may look for some other ones and return these just for the sake of doing it right.

Amazon makes returns easy and I'm not in a huge rush. I'd just prefer not to have to pay loads of money just for spacers.

Ben
 
Last edited:

JazzySP20

Madaz
:
AUSTRALIA
:
BJII Astina SP20
If you're referring to the outer diameter of the spacer itself, that is fine. No issues.

I'm not a fan of non hub centric spacers. Specially on the front.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
If you're referring to the outer diameter of the spacer itself, that is fine. No issues.

I'm not a fan of non hub centric spacers. Specially on the front.
The description says they're hub-centric. Are they not? I don't know... I'm just curious.
See this is the problem, I really don't have experience with this other than from my online research.

If hubcentric is referring to wheels which rest on the hub and not the studs, my current aftermarket wheels don't appear to be like that, and they've been on the car for over a decade so far as I know. They don't seem to have any contact marks from being on a hub. Furthermore, in the rear, there doesn't seem to be anything structural on the hubs for the wheels to rest on (or hit) other than the studs. This is why my new wheels had no issues fitting in the rear, but appeared to not fit in the front.

I'm confused.
 

JazzySP20

Madaz
:
AUSTRALIA
:
BJII Astina SP20
The description says they're hub-centric. Are they not? I don't know... I'm just curious.
Sorry, to clarify my post, I was referring to hub centric spacers with the hub ring. See image below.

In Benji's case, he is fitting rims with a centre bore of 67.1mm onto the 67.1mm Mazda hub. But by fitting a 5mm spacer, the wheel will most likely not be on the hub, and instead will be on with just the 5 studs. Not a fan of this method, as if you were to hit a big enough pothole with enough force, it is possible for the wheel to go off centre and be unbalanced, or worse, break a stud(s).

By fitting a 67.1mm centre bore wheel onto a 67.1mm hub, it is impossible to machine a hub centric spacer WITH a hub centric ring like in the photo I attached. If you were to fit... say a wheel with a centre bore of 73.1 (most aftermarket wheels) onto a 67.1 hub, then you can machine a hub centric ring onto the spacer.

Hope all that makes sense. ☺
 

Attachments

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Sorry, to clarify my post, I was referring to hub centric spacers with the hub ring. See image below.

In Benji's case, he is fitting rims with a centre bore of 67.1mm onto the 67.1mm Mazda hub. But by fitting a 5mm spacer, the wheel will most likely not be on the hub, and instead will be on with just the 5 studs. Not a fan of this method, as if you were to hit a big enough pothole with enough force, it is possible for the wheel to go off centre and be unbalanced, or worse, break a stud(s).

By fitting a 67.1mm centre bore wheel onto a 67.1mm hub, it is impossible to machine a hub centric spacer WITH a hub centric ring like in the photo I attached. If you were to fit... say a wheel with a centre bore of 73.1 (most aftermarket wheels) onto a 67.1 hub, then you can machine a hub centric ring onto the spacer.

Hope all that makes sense. ☺
That's how I figured it would work, but it makes complete sense now. I've always been weary of the idea of spacers, and this is one of the reasons. From what you've said, it doesn't seem like I've got much else in terms of options. The hub of the car only sticks out far enough for the hub of the stock wheel to just barely hit it, but this causes it to not fit properly. If it were to fit properly, It would act as a reinforcement.

This still doesn't explain why my rear hubs are different from my fronts in terms of fitment. I forgot to take a photo of the rear hub without a wheel on, but here's what a rear/front comparison looks like without caps. Obviously it's a FWD car, so I don't expect them to be identical.
IMG_20200125_150756358.jpg

IMG_20200125_154600888_HDR.jpg


I suppose my next step here will be to just go ahead and get my tires mounted and everything put on to test it.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Yay, new wheels on finally!
Just posting to prove that these wheels fit and to provide some photos of what they look like on the car. Also it was my first post so I feel somewhat obligated to follow up with a resolution.

I am running the 5mm spacers I bought on Amazon and this lets me use the OEM center caps which is great. I haven't had the wheels balanced, but the car still drives dead straight with minimal vibration at speed considering these have old weights on them from a completely different car.

Going from 16x7.5 +40 wheels to 16x6.5 +45 wheels with the same tire size has given the car more slop in the steering around corners and wheel fitment that isn't flush anymore compared to the perfectly flush fitment of the old wheels. It's a trade-off I'm okay with though, as these wheels look better than the old ones (IMO) and haven't been destroyed by curbs. The change will also prevent rubbing in the rear, which would happen sometimes with a large load in back, even on stock suspension.

As for my original question of why the wheels wouldn't fit directly onto the hub without getting stuck, my only remaining theory is that it the issue was caused by surface rust. The spacers illuminated this issue altogether for me, but more wire-brushing of surface rust would have also probably have remedied the issue.

Old wheels: (hard to see but they're horribly damaged and oxidated)
IMG_20191002_163905970_HDR-2.jpg


New wheels:
IMG_20200531_142416889_HDR.jpg

IMG_20200531_160733648_HDR.jpg

IMG_20200531_161025412_HDR.jpg


I'm satisfied overall. It's a small step compared to what some of you guys around here are doing, but I dig the OEM look and they were dirt cheap all-in. Now I kinda wanna ruin the OEM look again with mudflaps 🤷‍♂️

Of course, thanks also to everyone who helped me out!
 
Last edited:

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I like the background in your pictures.
You live in a beautiful area.
I love the Pacific North West, I haven't found anywhere I love more. The backroads in the area are also absolutely amazing to drive, and I find myself out there with no other reason but to just drive. I may get a GoPro at some point to record some driving clips.

We're getting a set of 2007 Miata NC wheels for my GF's P5. They are a direct fit, 17x7.5, correct offset and look really nice. View attachment 225001
:love: Goals.
Those wheels look amazing, I've photo-shopped a ton of different wheels onto my car and the modern Miata wheels are some of the best looking. I've got mockup photos of my car with the three main 2006-2008 5-lug Miata wheel styles and they're all great. I just wish they were cheaper. Post some photos somewhere when they're on, I want to see them!
 
Top