Driver Power seat making noise…Help

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K2500 Diesel Suburban; 2016 CX5 GT
My power seat started making a loud noise when moving it forward and backwards. It moves.. for now.. just annoying. No noise going up or down. Anyone else experience this problem and know of a fix. Thanks!
 
Although my power drivers seat wasn't all that loud,after 4 years it seemed kind of dry sounding.Lubing both jackscrew shafts (long threaded rods for fore and aft movement) with some chassis grease made it quieter and smoother.Hopefully prolong the life of the motor and mechanism.The factory grease seemed a bit on the light/thinner side.Just my experience. Jmaz
 
There is another thread about this. Some say, that the cables causing the noise and not the motor. There is a TSB about this. I have never looked it up, though.
 
Here's the part needed and solution to address this:
Thank you for sharing this. Seems worth the try. Curious if the squealing noise is coming from that cable would removing the inner portion and lubricating solve the problem? What else could cause that noise other than being dry?
 
Thank you for sharing this. Seems worth the try. Curious if the squealing noise is coming from that cable would removing the inner portion and lubricating solve the problem? What else could cause that noise other than being dry?

I didn't attempt lubrication, but if you give that a try please let us know. My guess (only a guess) is that it won't fix the issue since the sound is coming from vibration. You can hear the difference between the old cable (start of video) and new cable (end of video) - the cable is definitely the source of the problem. Replacing the entire seat base is a waste of money (although it would get you a new cable).
 
I didn't attempt lubrication, but if you give that a try please let us know. My guess (only a guess) is that it won't fix the issue since the sound is coming from vibration. You can hear the difference between the old cable (start of video) and new cable (end of video) - the cable is definitely the source of the problem. Replacing the entire seat base is a waste of money (although it would get you a new cable).
Getting ready to attempt this tomorrow. Picked up the socket this evening. In the video when in stalling the drive shaft you first say it's important to install in reverse order. Put in the console side first. Later in the video you say you put in the motor side first. Which did you do? Thanks!
 
Hey Koz - I did motor side out first to take it out and then when I went to put it in I actually did motor side in first. That isn't really "reversing" the process but I found it easier to install that way. You don't want to get to aggressive bending the cable because you could put a kink in it but you will have to lift the center some in order to get the console side end far enough back to slip the end in - I also needed to use a "recurve" bend to bring that console side end back parallel to the ground for it to slide in place. Good luck with it!
 
I'm attaching a close up picture of the end of the cable to facilitate understanding of my description of the three component parts of it (hard plastic outer shell, cloth sleeve, closed spring winding).
 

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Here's the part needed and solution to address this:
Great “How To” video and I wish the forum still kept the “How To” section like it used to be, and this should belong to there!

Like LED DRLs on 2016 CX-5, this problem seems to be a definite issue sooner or later and we eventually have to fix it for this power seat noise. Mine, a 2016 CX-5 GT with Tech Package, started having such noise a year ago although it’s not as loud. Eventually I need to fix it as instructed in the video. And there’s a TSB for this issue, and it does reference the noise to the drive cable too.
 
averageJoe - Want to say THANK YOU!!! This CX5 GT is now my daughter's car. I always tell her I will help her fix her car BUT I won't fix it for her. Today we picked up the cable at the local dealership, paid a few bucks more than ordering it online but they had it so we purchased it. Your instructions were excellent. We decided to remove the seat from the car so we could both work on the cable together. Didn't take long before she took control. She had it removed and replaced in about 5 minutes. She even looked at me and said, Is that it? A few more minutes to reinstall the seat and no more noise. Can't believe we lived with this problem for as long as we did with such an easy fix available. The hardest part was finding the 12MM e-Torx socket. Homey had a set for $24 which I almost bought. Local auto parts store said he had no clue what an e-torx socket was but after explaining it to him he called it an E star socket which he had. Posting a picture of the packaging. For under $5 you can't go wrong. Again. thank you!

IMG_5302.jpg
 
I’m having this problem. Seems the bolt/joint is warn out. Can’t seem to find the part hopefully I don’t have to replace the whole assembly my car if out of warranty.
 

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I’m having this problem. Seems the bolt/joint is warn out. Can’t seem to find the part hopefully I don’t have to replace the whole assembly my car if out of warranty.
Looks like your have the loose rivet on your driver seat. This’s a known issue and has been discussed many times before:

2016 CX-5 Touring driver's seat rocks slightly

And this post by deeno35 exposed the weak design of using the rivets where “either the rivet is not pressed tight enough from the factory, or it is stressed out in some way in the side to side / twisting direction and once that happens it will never return to being tight.” And “after seeing this it's no mystery that many of the seats have this problem and the fix is to replace the entire seat base sub frame.”

This is an old thread, but I wanted to update with what I found after taking my drivers seat out and looking at how it is put together as this thread seems to have the most comprehensive info on the issue.

I just bought a 2013 CX-5 GT and after getting home I noticed the seat rocks. It rocks side to side as well is 'up and down'. Front to back is fine.
I took the seat out of the car expecting to find a loose bolt, but it turns out to just be supported by large rivets that are used as pivot pins for the motized seat. This one pictured below in particular is the culprit for side to side movement (there is a sister rivet on the other side).

http://s108.photobucket.com/user/deeno35/media/2013 CX-5/5b7f772d-8de7-4dbb-ac10-49302a19e7e8_zpspphfhqsq.jpg.html

This is the other side of it:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n32/deeno35/2013 CX-5/e14f86f2-c320-43a6-be15-0fef38d5d267_zpsd75fhp92.jpg


This rivet is meant to allow motion in one direction (rotation around the pin). What happens is either the rivet is not pressed tight enough from the factory, or it is stressed out in some way in the side to side / twisting direction and once that happens it will never return to being tight (ie only moving along one axis again). I can literally 'twist' this joint and move the seat rail with my pinky when the seat is out of the car.

After seeing this it's no mystery that many of the seats have this problem and the fix is to replace the entire seat base sub frame. One could technically drill the rivet out and use a large nut+bolt with a split and a flat washer on each side to solve this problem (ie same setup as the lower seatbelt anchor found on many cars). So far I am not desperate enough to do so, but if I hear of any crash reports where the seat failed, I will do it.

And there’s a TSB which I couldn’t find also states the remedy of this problem is to replace the entire seat base sub frame ($$$).
 
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