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driver headlight not working, need help

My 2003 P5 driver side headlight is out and I am wondering what the cause can be. I have already changed out the bulb (not the issue) and have checked the fuses (none of them blew out). Is there anything else I can check to see what my issue is?? Thanks in advanced
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
You might need a new adaptor.
They get all burned up and crispy.



A lot of guys here on the forum have problems with the bulbs burning out two or three times a year.
 
Last edited:
:
Mazda protege5
When I was driving my p5 daily I ate up headlights about once a month and had to get all new adapters for my driver side because crispiness
 
my issue is with the main headlight and that part doesnt look like the one for the main. its the light where you have to twist it and then pull it back. is there an adapter for the main headlight also? sorry for the noob questions... im a yung P5 owner haha
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
The bulb that you twist then pull out is the high beam bulb.
The low beam has the adaptor and is held in by a wire spring thing.
The spring clip is a PITA to deal with and it's really hard to get in there to replace the bulb.
You'll get good at changing the bulb because you might have to do it every month. lol

 
:
protege5
p5 headlights suck. I buy in bulk. My current driver's headlight is about a year old now and still going good. sometimes I get one that lasts. Sometimes They last a few weeks or a couple months. MY sequoia has had the same headlights for the 10 years we've owned it. I don't get it lol That's probably why the previous owner added one of those cheap HID conversion kits...
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
I've had my car 9 years now and I'm only on my third set of bulbs.
I don't drive much but I drive with all my lights on all the time.
(I did the mod where all lights turn off with the ignition.)

I'm guessing that my yearly undercoating/oil spray has kept all my grounds conducting properly so that my ECU gets proper voltage readings and isn't turning the alternator up and down creating voltage spikes.
(Krown sprays all wires and connectors.)
 
:
protege5
I've had my car 9 years now and I'm only on my third set of bulbs.
I don't drive much but I drive with all my lights on all the time.
(I did the mod where all lights turn off with the ignition.)

I'm guessing that my yearly undercoating/oil spray has kept all my grounds conducting properly so that my ECU gets proper voltage readings and isn't turning the alternator up and down creating voltage spikes.
(Krown sprays all wires and connectors.)
I don't think that has anything to do with my headlights. The only rust anywhere on my car is a little bit on the hood from where rock chips are, and that's just a little surface rust. I just think it's a crappy design. I just got tired of spending $15/bulb on the nice sylvanias and ordered a 10 pack of bulbs on ebay for like 8 bucks. Funny thing is they last longer than the good bulbs lol

My headlight woes are over though now, I bought a new truck yesterday so p5 is up for sale. nothing wrong with the car, but not much point in keeping it, i'm the only one in the house that can drive a stick lol
 
yeah its the high beam bulb.

The bulb that you twist then pull out is the high beam bulb.
The low beam has the adaptor and is held in by a wire spring thing.
The spring clip is a PITA to deal with and it's really hard to get in there to replace the bulb.
You'll get good at changing the bulb because you might have to do it every month. lol

my issue is that I already replaced the high beam bulb but for some reason when i reinstalled it that the light wont turn on. ive checked the fuse and its fine and I even switched the right side bulb to the left side and the bulb is not the issue. im thinking it might be a grounding issue or maybe the wire is cut somewhere but Im not sure where to look to further diagnose the issue
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
You might have a bad bulb socket.
Try to test for power on the wires feeding it.
 
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
Use dielectric grease when installing bulbs in the P5 and your problems will be over - or at least greatly reduced. I was replacing every year until I started using it.
 
:
protege5
I just replace my bulbs every December. Haha I drive my car all the Time so I have to replace them. I put on an average of 11k a year
The first 3 years I owned the car I put about 120k miles on it. The last year and a half I owned it I changed job duties and work from home, I might have put 10k miles on it but I don't think it was even that much. Most of that was just driving to the airport and back.
 
:
'03 Mazda Protege5 manual
I'm still searching the forums... but on the headlight topic, is it easy to change from the standard to LED bulbs for low beams? I see conversion kits on Amazon. I just need the lights to work, I'm not trying to make the car anything special. Just love driving it! Thanks in advance, Mazda people!

I've learned to un-clip/re-clip the dreaded bulb clip which requires Keebler Elf-sized fingers with the strength of the angry Hulk.
I've also learned through trial and error that the cheapest H7 bulbs have the lowest draw and last wayyy longer. I think the higher draw might overload the wiring harness? But I'm not that savvy, it's just a guess :)
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
I've also learned through trial and error that the cheapest H7 bulbs have the lowest draw and last wayyy longer. I think the higher draw might overload the wiring harness? But I'm not that savvy, it's just a guess :)
That makes sense to me.
I'm thinking it's more of a heat thing cooking the wires and connectors
The wires leading to the bulbs are usually ok except for the last few inches near the bulb.

LED's are way more efficient and put out a less heat but I have no experience with them and don't know how reliable they are.
 

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