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does the 02-03 protege /p5 cut off fuel when coasting in gear?
- Thread starter kms1990
- Start date
thank you, i cannot confirm this very easily as i just use a calculator on my phone when filling up each time and use fuelly to track it, as seen in my sig. but have not noticed much of a difference when i coast in neutral all the time when coasting for a tank or coasting in gear all the time when coasting for a tank. my only theory with why they just about average out is i can coast 1.5ish blocks down my street to house in neutral but not even half a block in gear from same speed. so i am assuming it is more efficient to stay in gear and coast when only needed for shorter distances such as to a red light or stop sign but if able to coast further like down those nearly 2 blocks on my street then neutral is way to go.
i am trying to get a good feel for when each type should be used to maximize fuel economy, especially since gas is going up again and my job (full time student in college, part time worker at a parts store ) is cutting hours and i will be making less money. i am trying to save all i can everywhere even before this but now i need to maximize this savings as i pay and have been paying for my schooling as well.
i am trying to get a good feel for when each type should be used to maximize fuel economy, especially since gas is going up again and my job (full time student in college, part time worker at a parts store ) is cutting hours and i will be making less money. i am trying to save all i can everywhere even before this but now i need to maximize this savings as i pay and have been paying for my schooling as well.
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you probably wont see any noticeable difference in fuel consumption in which ever way you choose to drive.
The reason you cant coast as long for in gear ,as you probably already now, is engine braking. Since its cutting(no fuel energy) the engine is using the cars kinetic energy to run.
if you want to get better gas mileage make sure you do all you regular maintenance, and get rid of weight. seats, interior panels, carpet, completely gut the sucker. that will make a difference. You can even lose weight you're self lol.
The reason you cant coast as long for in gear ,as you probably already now, is engine braking. Since its cutting(no fuel energy) the engine is using the cars kinetic energy to run.
if you want to get better gas mileage make sure you do all you regular maintenance, and get rid of weight. seats, interior panels, carpet, completely gut the sucker. that will make a difference. You can even lose weight you're self lol.
lol ya i knew that about the coasting in gear plus there is the friction of the gearbox as well. i live with my dad and this was his car before mine (we traded in my old car, got very bad mpg, 15 or so) so i cannot gut the car or he would get mad that not only did i gut it bu that the stuff is just sitting around. i am trying to lose some weight myself. I am also trying to drive slower, but its hard to retrain yourself on that. the car is very well maintained i always make sure i have the money for schooling (books, tuition ect fafsa loans and grants help here but i usually have to cover some of the cost) and car maintenance and repair and food/drink (when needed, usually dad provides the food for house, but i do have to eat out at times when i dont have left overs or meals to take with me places) and he helps with things i cannot fully afford.
i do my own work when i ahve time such as oil changes, and since i can wasily do this alone i use castrol syntec 5w30 as it costs as much as getting it done somewhere and i get better oil i can use for 6,000 miles vs same cost a a quick lube for 3,000 mile oil so i pay half in long run.
i use a k and n drop in filter and have synthetic gear oil in the tranny now after draining it while changing clutch with a mechanic friend i know from work. it has good tires and brakes all the way around (all new within a few months) the battery is good and so all my fluids and filters and newish coils, wires and spark plus which i got ngk iridium ix. i try to do the best i can to keep er up and i feel i would be a shame if i did not because i work at a car parts store and get a discount
i do my own work when i ahve time such as oil changes, and since i can wasily do this alone i use castrol syntec 5w30 as it costs as much as getting it done somewhere and i get better oil i can use for 6,000 miles vs same cost a a quick lube for 3,000 mile oil so i pay half in long run.
i use a k and n drop in filter and have synthetic gear oil in the tranny now after draining it while changing clutch with a mechanic friend i know from work. it has good tires and brakes all the way around (all new within a few months) the battery is good and so all my fluids and filters and newish coils, wires and spark plus which i got ngk iridium ix. i try to do the best i can to keep er up and i feel i would be a shame if i did not because i work at a car parts store and get a discount
is it more efficient to coat in gear or nuetral when slowing for whatever reason?
When you are coasting in gear, you travel all that distance for free,... If you learn your timing based on the faster deceleration you will save gas.
(you can actually feel the injectors kick back in at idle rpm if you wait that long before hitting the clutch.)
I do my own work when i ahve time such as oil changes, and since i can wasily do this alone i use castrol syntec 5w30 as it costs as much as getting it done somewhere and i get better oil i can use for 6,000 miles vs same cost a a quick lube for 3,000 mile oil so i pay half in long run.
Don't Do It !!! It is way safer for our FS engines to have frequent oil changes.
Use cheap oil (and seafoam) and change it every 3,000 miles. (same cost,.. twice the effort though)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...n-cold-start&p=5504992&viewfull=1#post5504992
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...art-up-need-mechanic-recommendations-in-SoCal
When you are coasting in gear, you travel all that distance for free,... If you learn your timing based on the faster deceleration you will save gas.
(you can actually feel the injectors kick back in at idle rpm if you wait that long before hitting the clutch.)
Don't Do It !!! It is way safer for our FS engines to have frequent oil changes.
Use cheap oil (and seafoam) and change it every 3,000 miles. (same cost,.. twice the effort though)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...n-cold-start&p=5504992&viewfull=1#post5504992
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...art-up-need-mechanic-recommendations-in-SoCal
really i did not know that, i guess ill stick with regular oil and 3k mile changes. after reading those threads i am not sure why i should not do 6k changes with a good synthetic and seafoam? i see the channels can get blocked but i am using the thinner 5w30 oil so it should not have as many issues in that area. i monitor my oil for smell and color change and at the one 6k mile change i have done it was still golden like day one and smelled just like it should
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tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
It's actually easier on gas if you keep the pedal down a little to pick up a little extra speed when you go back up hill you won't have to get on it as much
I guess if your old oil is still looking new, then you're probably OK.
My concern with "high mileage" oils isn't their ability to lubricate for 6k miles but it's ability to keep all that sludge and lacquer in suspension for that long without having it "condense" or "stick" to anything important,... especially our oil rings.
I know it feels like your doing the best thing for your car by using synthetic but in our case I don't think that's true. ANY oil will last for 3k miles and I remember my auto teacher saying the single most important thing anyone can do to get your engine to last is to change the oil every 3k.
There was a guy here on the forum a couple of months ago who had his P5 from new and ONLY used synthetic oil but his oil rings seized.
I put Seafoam in after my oil change (1/3 of a can in the oil,... less than $3 worth) and leave it in for the the full 3k miles. My old oil dumps out clean looking too but being as the Seafoam has been in there the entire time, I know my internals are as sludge and lacquer free as they can be. (it only takes a tiny bit of carbonized crap to plug up those drain holes and they may well be one of the first places for the stuff to build up (due to the heat and low oil flow))
I will admit that there is some assumptions on my part here but I just bought a parts car that's burning oil and I intend at some point to take a look at the pistons to inspect the rings,... I am not however, going to disassemble my working car to compare rings to try and prove my point. But I will post some pics when I get to that part.
My concern with "high mileage" oils isn't their ability to lubricate for 6k miles but it's ability to keep all that sludge and lacquer in suspension for that long without having it "condense" or "stick" to anything important,... especially our oil rings.
I know it feels like your doing the best thing for your car by using synthetic but in our case I don't think that's true. ANY oil will last for 3k miles and I remember my auto teacher saying the single most important thing anyone can do to get your engine to last is to change the oil every 3k.
There was a guy here on the forum a couple of months ago who had his P5 from new and ONLY used synthetic oil but his oil rings seized.
I put Seafoam in after my oil change (1/3 of a can in the oil,... less than $3 worth) and leave it in for the the full 3k miles. My old oil dumps out clean looking too but being as the Seafoam has been in there the entire time, I know my internals are as sludge and lacquer free as they can be. (it only takes a tiny bit of carbonized crap to plug up those drain holes and they may well be one of the first places for the stuff to build up (due to the heat and low oil flow))
I will admit that there is some assumptions on my part here but I just bought a parts car that's burning oil and I intend at some point to take a look at the pistons to inspect the rings,... I am not however, going to disassemble my working car to compare rings to try and prove my point. But I will post some pics when I get to that part.
i am not using "high mileage" oil just synthetic and at 6k changes
and by a blend i mean just a blend not a blend with extra additives that are the "high mileage" oils and can cause seal swelling and leaks i do not recommend "high mileage" oil to anyone unless the car is very high mileage as in over 220k or if they have a leak they need to temporarily slow until they can fix it
I am using seafoam in the oil about the same amount you are and i run it through the vacuum lines at each oil change as well and the other 1/3 in the gas
and by a blend i mean just a blend not a blend with extra additives that are the "high mileage" oils and can cause seal swelling and leaks i do not recommend "high mileage" oil to anyone unless the car is very high mileage as in over 220k or if they have a leak they need to temporarily slow until they can fix it
I am using seafoam in the oil about the same amount you are and i run it through the vacuum lines at each oil change as well and the other 1/3 in the gas
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