DIY Protege forged motor prepare guide
I didn't really have a change to make a build thread specially since my pictures suck. I did a lot of research prior to my build this is my way to paying back to the forum and community thats helped me so much.
*Disclaimer*
You are responsible for your own actions and choices its not my fault if you buy the wrong parts or damage your engine. This is intended as a preparation aid prior to building your FS-DE and to give an idea of whats to come. Building an engine from start to finish is expensive, difficult, and time consuming. Do additional research as information may change may be incorrect or have typos but i will be reviewing it as necessary. Again I am not responsible if you ruin your engine or buy the incorrect parts.
Before pulling the engine:
Make sure your engine is in good running condition.
Compression test! (Link below).
-You learn a lot about the state of the engine without taking it apart. Do the test dry and wet to get an idea of the state of piston rings.
-Mine checked out at 165 +/- 5psi dry, 175+/-5psi wet.
Do a leak down test on any cylinders that test extremely low or if there is a large difference between the others.
If your engine has very low compression or compression varies a lot between cylinders be prepared to have the block serviced and hold off on buying pistons till its determined what size you need or find a different block.
Cylinder Head:
I pulled a cylinder head at the junk yard for dirt cheap. Took it to the machine shop had it inspected, milled, and valves ground. Make sure you do this before you pull the engine to decrease down time.
If you are assembling the cylinder head your self ask your machinist if valve lapping is required. This may change depending on the machinist or the service your are paying for. In my case the machinist instructed me NOT to lap the valves as doing so would ruin the grind job.
If the lash is off or if you are putting in different camshafts you will need to shim the lifters. Valve lash is suppose to be at 010 +or- .001. It is important they are shimmed correctly to prevent excessive valve tapping, burning or cracking a valve.
Pick up valve lifter shims at the junk yard from a few different cars (might have to take the entire lifter if you cant take them out). Dirt cheap.
To get the shims out the lifters I used the edge of a ruler thats on my feeler gauge by stinking it in slot and prying them out. If this doesnt work use compressed air they will shoot out so use a rag to catch them.
To actual shim you will have to assemble the head. Sit down with a pen and paper measure the gap and write it down for all 16 lifters make sure you are organize! Make sure the camshaft is facing up and the lobe is not interfering as this will give you an incorrect measurements.
Remove the cams. Remove the shims and measure their width, and replace with the appropriate shims. Do not move the lifters around keep them in the same bore.
Reassemble and check your work and repeat if need.
Note on porting and over sized valves:
I spoke to the machinist for what seemed to be an hour on this. To paraphrase ITS NOT WORTH IT! Spend your money else where. You will see more gains if you spend the money on good valve springs and retainers, bolt ons, hardware and internals. He basically explained that if you are not competing on the drag strip for every tenth of a second you will never be able to see any real benefits from getting these services done.
Note on hardware:
Upgrade if you can! Bolts and studs are keeping all of the components together if you are increasing the performance of the engine there will be a point when you exceed the stock hardware ability. Its highly recommend you up grade the hardware to protect your investment.
Tips for removing the engine:
I labeled the sensor plugs on the harness so I wouldn't forget their location, it makes the installation process much faster.
Make sure everything is disconnected and all wires, clutch line and fuel lines are out the way.
Remove as much as possible from the engine before taking it out. This will give you more room to maneuver it out and avoid damaging anything. Things such as manifolds, alternator and radiator and coolant pipes.
I was able to set the ac compressor and power steering pump aside with out having to disconnect any hoses. Just make sure they are secure and supported in place.
You will need to pull the engine and transmission together. I pulled it in a slanted position(only by a few degrees). Meaning the transmission was lower then the front of the engine. I also placed it back in the same way.
Engine tare down and build tips:
Inspect everything!
Check for damaged or worn parts. Look for cracks and rust. Make sure none of the galley plugs are not leaking.
Be organize and take your time! I cannot stress this enough.
I do not recommend using any cleaner that requires water on the block. Use kerosine or WD-40, then wipe with wax and grease remover or rubbing alcohol
Place screws in labeled zip lock bags.
If you remove the main caps make sure you keep them in order.
Consult with machinist about any deep stretches or other cylinder abnormalities. Glazing is normal so if there are some spots that you can not see the original cross hatching do not worry, try scratching it with your nail it should rub off.
When honing be careful not to hit the oil squirters.
If you don't have an engine stand put the head on once the block and trans are back in the car. Make sure the deck surface is protected during installation. It is also easier to reach the rear engine mount without t he cylinder on.
If using ARP head studs read guide lines below!
Things to do while you have the engine out.
Clean engine bay!
Paint engine block. Helps protect against rust. Use appropriate paint!
Clean/paint Valve cover. Use appropriate paint!
Retro grade to 1.8l Ignition coils.
Engine mounts
Replace any broken engine mounts, or upgrade to stiffer ones
I decided to fill them (how to link below) very cheap and good results. WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!
Replace Axels and axel seals if needed
Replace bad suspension parts.
Coat/wrap exhaust manifold and other exhaust parts.
Delete VTCS/VICS (how to link below)
Did this mostly for security I don't want one of those screws backing out and destroying my work.
Make sure the turbine housing inlet flange is not warped, get it machined if needed.
Engine installation tips.
I was able to pull the engine by myself but not install it. its best to call someone to help.
1st. Try to get the left(driver side) engine mount lined up. It may not be possible to screw all the way in but its alright. Getting the screw in will help you line up the other mounts
2nd install the right(passenger side engine mount) if the head is not on yet make sure you put the timing belt in position or you will have to take the mount off again.
3rd the lower front
Last the rear mount. For me this was the hardest one to get the screws to line up. Try putting in the middle screw first then the other two.
Use a floor jack with a piece of wood if you need to make adjustments to engine position.
After you are done.
Change the transmission fluid! I used GM Syncromesh this stuff is great. How to link Below.
There are different ways to break in and engine. So follow which ever method you believe is best.
I could not find a straight answer online or talking to mechanics. I ended up calling Wiseco. They quickly got me on the phone with the correct person. The representative/tuner was very knowledgeable and explain to me how they recommend to do the break-in. He also went over installation and answered all my questions. I recommend you call your piston manufacturer if you have any questions. They make the pistons, pretty much the most reliable source you can get.
PARTS:
The parts I used will be at the top of each part description along with its part number if available. For the majority of the parts such as main bearings, timing parts, and gaskets use Genuine Mazda parts.
Internals
Pistons
Wiseco Piston kit: K614M83, others are available if over size pistons are needed. You can also order custom pistons if needed.
Standard size pistons with 9.0:1 Ratio
Make sure all marking on the rings are facing up. Follow installation instructions that come with the kit.
They will come with everything: rings, pins, and pin clips
Very important you check all the clearances and ring gaps.
Break-in according to Wiseco representative/tuner I spoke to who's name I didnt catch:
Start car, allow to idle till warm. Turn off and allow to cool completely. Repeat 3X
Change oil. (and filter)
Till 100miles or so: you want to drive in at low speeds and different rpms (DO NOT CRUISE) and stay out of boost. if you have a boost controller of some kind disengage it and run regular waste gate pressure for the time being.
Change oil (and filter)
Dyno Tune. The majority of the break-in will occur while on the dyno. The dyno will put the engine under high loads which will complete the break-in.
he said DO NOT use synthetic or any synthetic blend oil during break-in, as this will slow down /prevent the piston rings from breaking-in properly.
He recommended not to change to synthetic oil till +1000 or so miles if you decide to make the switch.
Other notes:
Try to get a high quality piston ring compressor, if you can't and have to use a cheap turn to tighten type (like me) be extremely careful as these high performance rings will spread as soon they are between the ring compressor and the block. I was only able to get one piston in on the first try.
Arias Pistons:
Over sizes and lower compression rations available.
CP Pistons:
Over sizes and lower compression rations available.
Connecting rods
Crower Rods: B93787B-4
These say 93-97 Mazda/ford 2.0L
C to C: 5.322, I was worried these rods were going to be long but everything fit exactly like stock.
These are expensive but the quality is second to none. I highly recommend you spend the extra money. They are made to order, so it will take 4-6 week to receive them.
Pauter Rods: MAZ-190-510-1350F
Another high end rod. Different design.
C to C: 5.320
K1 Rods:
They sell the normal length and long rods. These are more affordable.
Normal: ZH5315AEAB4-A
C to C: 5.315"
Long Rod: ZH5400AEAB4-A
C to C:5.400"
Make note the long rods will require shorter pistons.
Rod Bearings: FSY111SE0
Don't use old ones no matter how good they look.
Gasket set: 8LB310271
This is a great set. It contains just about everything you'll need for reassembly.
*Does not include: throttle body gasket, intake manifold plenum gasket, turbo to mani, or s pipe to j pipe gasket.*
Timing Belt:
Unless timing belt service was done yesterday replace it!
Continetal: TB228
Oem: FSY112205
Gates:
Dyco:
Timing Belt Tensioner Spring: FS0112711
Replace it!
Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket: T25 SCE Gasket 9456
This is a thick copper gasket. A lot better then silver ones.
Copper Anti-Seize: Loctite 37533
Use on all exhaust hardware
Turbo Bolts: ARP 661-1005
Chromemoly M8 x 1.25, 40mm, hex head se of five
I used these with a thunder manifold and some grade 10 locking nuts
You are going to want to use Chromemoly hardware not stainless steel for the turbo. Chromemoly handles the high heat of the turbo a lot better.
Gasket Maker of your choice:
Permatex Ultra copper
Just about any manufacturer RTV
NAPA The Right Stuff
ARP Ultra-Torque Lube: 1.69oz ARP 100-9909
The ARP stud kits will come with lube but its barely enough, its good to have extra in case you run out or have to disassemble something.
Head studs/bolts:
If your car has a turbo DO NOT reuse them, even if they are with-in spec. Buy new ones or upgrade to ARP.
ARP: 218-4703
These are tricky to install. You will have to put the washers on the head before placing the head on the block. I found this out the hard way.
You will need a 3/8th drive 1/2 12pt deep socket. A 1/2 drive will NOT fit in between lifter bores.
I purchased a kobalt socket from Lowes that worked perfectly.
Follow the instruction included with the kit.
Oem: FS0110135
Not always sold as a set. You'll need 10
Main bolts/studs
If you remove them its a good idea to replace them, or upgrade to ARP
ARP: 203-5403
Oem: FS01-10-352
Not always sold as a set. You'll need 10
Main Bearings: FSY111SG0A
Highly recommend you change these especially if the engine has high miles or if its been driven hard.
Thrust Bearings: FSY111SJ0
These are installed with the slotted side toward the crankshaft incase someone needs to know.
Replace these if you replace the main bearings
Valve springs
Not hundred percent required will help prevent valve float
Eibach valve springs
Can be use with stock retainers.
Single spring design.
Much more affordable.
Super Tech
Titanium retainers available
Dual spring design.
Water Pump: FS0115010F
Inspect for wear, noise and leakage. Replace as need
If it hasn't been done might as well do it now.
Timing belt tensioner: FS0112700B
Make sure it spins smoothly, if when it spins it makes noise(like an old skate board) its bad. Inspect visually for other signs of wear or damage. Replace as need
Timing idler pulley: FS0112730A
Make sure it spins smoothly, if when it spins it makes noise(like an old skate board) its bad. Inspect visually for other signs of wear or damage. Replace as need
Drive belts:
Inspect for wear. Replace them as need with belts of your choice.
Gates Racing belt for Alternator and water pump: GAT K040360RB
Clutch, Pressure Plate, and throw out bearing:
Replace as need, Highly recommend you upgrade now.
Fly Wheel:
Inspect for heat damage, cracking or warpage.
Get it service or replace as needed. This would be a great time to up grade as well.
Camshaft cap bolts: KL0210126
Inspect threads for signs of stretching and stripping. Replace as need
There are 20 if you plan to replace them all.
Exhaust manifold to head hardware:
ARP: 400-8023
Very nice set, they are 12pt so you can put a lot of force on them without the risk of stripping.
If the ARP set is not for you, use studs rather then bolts,and use copper locking nuts.
Throttle body gasket: FS0113655
You will most likely need this.
Intake Manifold plenum gasket
may be need if you delete the VTCS/VICS
Spark plugs and wires:
Look under MSP Aftermarket Listings for more info. (Link below)
NGK or oem for wires.
NGK for the plugs try to get a hold off on colder plug
Helpful links:
Compression Test Procedure
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123815851-Compression-Test-Procedure
Clearances and Torque Specs
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123785150-Clearances-and-Torque-Specs
Cam Gear bolt torque 37-44 ft./lbs.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123706885-cam-gear
Cam shaft installation guide:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?32015-How-To-Mazda-FS-DE-Camshaft-Installation
FS Engine/Revision/Cam Specs
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123713157-FS-Engine-Revision-Cam-Specs
VTCS/VICS Delete and Intake Manifold Modification
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-VICS-Delete-and-Intake-Manifold-Modification
How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...e-Install-Tranny-and-LSD-or-disassemble-gears
How to on filling engine mounts
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/enginemounts.html
Engine Rebuild Components - 2.0 FS
http://www.themazda forum.com/showthread.php/4285-Engine-Rebuild-Components-2.0-FS
How To Change Manual-Transmission Fluid
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123756052-How-To-Change-Manual-Transmission-Fluid
How to: Forged Motor and more
http://www.mp5t.com/?page_id=272
Mazdaspeed Protege Aftermarket Parts Listing
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?31763-Mazdaspeed-Protege-Aftermarket-Parts-Listing
I didn't really have a change to make a build thread specially since my pictures suck. I did a lot of research prior to my build this is my way to paying back to the forum and community thats helped me so much.
*Disclaimer*
You are responsible for your own actions and choices its not my fault if you buy the wrong parts or damage your engine. This is intended as a preparation aid prior to building your FS-DE and to give an idea of whats to come. Building an engine from start to finish is expensive, difficult, and time consuming. Do additional research as information may change may be incorrect or have typos but i will be reviewing it as necessary. Again I am not responsible if you ruin your engine or buy the incorrect parts.
Before pulling the engine:
Make sure your engine is in good running condition.
Compression test! (Link below).
-You learn a lot about the state of the engine without taking it apart. Do the test dry and wet to get an idea of the state of piston rings.
-Mine checked out at 165 +/- 5psi dry, 175+/-5psi wet.
Do a leak down test on any cylinders that test extremely low or if there is a large difference between the others.
If your engine has very low compression or compression varies a lot between cylinders be prepared to have the block serviced and hold off on buying pistons till its determined what size you need or find a different block.
Cylinder Head:
I pulled a cylinder head at the junk yard for dirt cheap. Took it to the machine shop had it inspected, milled, and valves ground. Make sure you do this before you pull the engine to decrease down time.
If you are assembling the cylinder head your self ask your machinist if valve lapping is required. This may change depending on the machinist or the service your are paying for. In my case the machinist instructed me NOT to lap the valves as doing so would ruin the grind job.
If the lash is off or if you are putting in different camshafts you will need to shim the lifters. Valve lash is suppose to be at 010 +or- .001. It is important they are shimmed correctly to prevent excessive valve tapping, burning or cracking a valve.
Pick up valve lifter shims at the junk yard from a few different cars (might have to take the entire lifter if you cant take them out). Dirt cheap.
To get the shims out the lifters I used the edge of a ruler thats on my feeler gauge by stinking it in slot and prying them out. If this doesnt work use compressed air they will shoot out so use a rag to catch them.
To actual shim you will have to assemble the head. Sit down with a pen and paper measure the gap and write it down for all 16 lifters make sure you are organize! Make sure the camshaft is facing up and the lobe is not interfering as this will give you an incorrect measurements.
Remove the cams. Remove the shims and measure their width, and replace with the appropriate shims. Do not move the lifters around keep them in the same bore.
Reassemble and check your work and repeat if need.
Note on porting and over sized valves:
I spoke to the machinist for what seemed to be an hour on this. To paraphrase ITS NOT WORTH IT! Spend your money else where. You will see more gains if you spend the money on good valve springs and retainers, bolt ons, hardware and internals. He basically explained that if you are not competing on the drag strip for every tenth of a second you will never be able to see any real benefits from getting these services done.
Note on hardware:
Upgrade if you can! Bolts and studs are keeping all of the components together if you are increasing the performance of the engine there will be a point when you exceed the stock hardware ability. Its highly recommend you up grade the hardware to protect your investment.
Tips for removing the engine:
I labeled the sensor plugs on the harness so I wouldn't forget their location, it makes the installation process much faster.
Make sure everything is disconnected and all wires, clutch line and fuel lines are out the way.
Remove as much as possible from the engine before taking it out. This will give you more room to maneuver it out and avoid damaging anything. Things such as manifolds, alternator and radiator and coolant pipes.
I was able to set the ac compressor and power steering pump aside with out having to disconnect any hoses. Just make sure they are secure and supported in place.
You will need to pull the engine and transmission together. I pulled it in a slanted position(only by a few degrees). Meaning the transmission was lower then the front of the engine. I also placed it back in the same way.
Engine tare down and build tips:
Inspect everything!
Check for damaged or worn parts. Look for cracks and rust. Make sure none of the galley plugs are not leaking.
Be organize and take your time! I cannot stress this enough.
I do not recommend using any cleaner that requires water on the block. Use kerosine or WD-40, then wipe with wax and grease remover or rubbing alcohol
Place screws in labeled zip lock bags.
If you remove the main caps make sure you keep them in order.
Consult with machinist about any deep stretches or other cylinder abnormalities. Glazing is normal so if there are some spots that you can not see the original cross hatching do not worry, try scratching it with your nail it should rub off.
When honing be careful not to hit the oil squirters.
If you don't have an engine stand put the head on once the block and trans are back in the car. Make sure the deck surface is protected during installation. It is also easier to reach the rear engine mount without t he cylinder on.
If using ARP head studs read guide lines below!
Things to do while you have the engine out.
Clean engine bay!
Paint engine block. Helps protect against rust. Use appropriate paint!
Clean/paint Valve cover. Use appropriate paint!
Retro grade to 1.8l Ignition coils.
Engine mounts
Replace any broken engine mounts, or upgrade to stiffer ones
I decided to fill them (how to link below) very cheap and good results. WEAR GLOVES!!!!!!!
Replace Axels and axel seals if needed
Replace bad suspension parts.
Coat/wrap exhaust manifold and other exhaust parts.
Delete VTCS/VICS (how to link below)
Did this mostly for security I don't want one of those screws backing out and destroying my work.
Make sure the turbine housing inlet flange is not warped, get it machined if needed.
Engine installation tips.
I was able to pull the engine by myself but not install it. its best to call someone to help.
1st. Try to get the left(driver side) engine mount lined up. It may not be possible to screw all the way in but its alright. Getting the screw in will help you line up the other mounts
2nd install the right(passenger side engine mount) if the head is not on yet make sure you put the timing belt in position or you will have to take the mount off again.
3rd the lower front
Last the rear mount. For me this was the hardest one to get the screws to line up. Try putting in the middle screw first then the other two.
Use a floor jack with a piece of wood if you need to make adjustments to engine position.
After you are done.
Change the transmission fluid! I used GM Syncromesh this stuff is great. How to link Below.
There are different ways to break in and engine. So follow which ever method you believe is best.
I could not find a straight answer online or talking to mechanics. I ended up calling Wiseco. They quickly got me on the phone with the correct person. The representative/tuner was very knowledgeable and explain to me how they recommend to do the break-in. He also went over installation and answered all my questions. I recommend you call your piston manufacturer if you have any questions. They make the pistons, pretty much the most reliable source you can get.
PARTS:
The parts I used will be at the top of each part description along with its part number if available. For the majority of the parts such as main bearings, timing parts, and gaskets use Genuine Mazda parts.
Internals
Pistons
Wiseco Piston kit: K614M83, others are available if over size pistons are needed. You can also order custom pistons if needed.
Standard size pistons with 9.0:1 Ratio
Make sure all marking on the rings are facing up. Follow installation instructions that come with the kit.
They will come with everything: rings, pins, and pin clips
Very important you check all the clearances and ring gaps.
Break-in according to Wiseco representative/tuner I spoke to who's name I didnt catch:
Start car, allow to idle till warm. Turn off and allow to cool completely. Repeat 3X
Change oil. (and filter)
Till 100miles or so: you want to drive in at low speeds and different rpms (DO NOT CRUISE) and stay out of boost. if you have a boost controller of some kind disengage it and run regular waste gate pressure for the time being.
Change oil (and filter)
Dyno Tune. The majority of the break-in will occur while on the dyno. The dyno will put the engine under high loads which will complete the break-in.
he said DO NOT use synthetic or any synthetic blend oil during break-in, as this will slow down /prevent the piston rings from breaking-in properly.
He recommended not to change to synthetic oil till +1000 or so miles if you decide to make the switch.
Other notes:
Try to get a high quality piston ring compressor, if you can't and have to use a cheap turn to tighten type (like me) be extremely careful as these high performance rings will spread as soon they are between the ring compressor and the block. I was only able to get one piston in on the first try.
Arias Pistons:
Over sizes and lower compression rations available.
CP Pistons:
Over sizes and lower compression rations available.
Connecting rods
Crower Rods: B93787B-4
These say 93-97 Mazda/ford 2.0L
C to C: 5.322, I was worried these rods were going to be long but everything fit exactly like stock.
These are expensive but the quality is second to none. I highly recommend you spend the extra money. They are made to order, so it will take 4-6 week to receive them.
Pauter Rods: MAZ-190-510-1350F
Another high end rod. Different design.
C to C: 5.320
K1 Rods:
They sell the normal length and long rods. These are more affordable.
Normal: ZH5315AEAB4-A
C to C: 5.315"
Long Rod: ZH5400AEAB4-A
C to C:5.400"
Make note the long rods will require shorter pistons.
Rod Bearings: FSY111SE0
Don't use old ones no matter how good they look.
Gasket set: 8LB310271
This is a great set. It contains just about everything you'll need for reassembly.
*Does not include: throttle body gasket, intake manifold plenum gasket, turbo to mani, or s pipe to j pipe gasket.*
Timing Belt:
Unless timing belt service was done yesterday replace it!
Continetal: TB228
Oem: FSY112205
Gates:
Dyco:
Timing Belt Tensioner Spring: FS0112711
Replace it!
Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket: T25 SCE Gasket 9456
This is a thick copper gasket. A lot better then silver ones.
Copper Anti-Seize: Loctite 37533
Use on all exhaust hardware
Turbo Bolts: ARP 661-1005
Chromemoly M8 x 1.25, 40mm, hex head se of five
I used these with a thunder manifold and some grade 10 locking nuts
You are going to want to use Chromemoly hardware not stainless steel for the turbo. Chromemoly handles the high heat of the turbo a lot better.
Gasket Maker of your choice:
Permatex Ultra copper
Just about any manufacturer RTV
NAPA The Right Stuff
ARP Ultra-Torque Lube: 1.69oz ARP 100-9909
The ARP stud kits will come with lube but its barely enough, its good to have extra in case you run out or have to disassemble something.
Head studs/bolts:
If your car has a turbo DO NOT reuse them, even if they are with-in spec. Buy new ones or upgrade to ARP.
ARP: 218-4703
These are tricky to install. You will have to put the washers on the head before placing the head on the block. I found this out the hard way.
You will need a 3/8th drive 1/2 12pt deep socket. A 1/2 drive will NOT fit in between lifter bores.
I purchased a kobalt socket from Lowes that worked perfectly.
Follow the instruction included with the kit.
Oem: FS0110135
Not always sold as a set. You'll need 10
Main bolts/studs
If you remove them its a good idea to replace them, or upgrade to ARP
ARP: 203-5403
Oem: FS01-10-352
Not always sold as a set. You'll need 10
Main Bearings: FSY111SG0A
Highly recommend you change these especially if the engine has high miles or if its been driven hard.
Thrust Bearings: FSY111SJ0
These are installed with the slotted side toward the crankshaft incase someone needs to know.
Replace these if you replace the main bearings
Valve springs
Not hundred percent required will help prevent valve float
Eibach valve springs
Can be use with stock retainers.
Single spring design.
Much more affordable.
Super Tech
Titanium retainers available
Dual spring design.
Water Pump: FS0115010F
Inspect for wear, noise and leakage. Replace as need
If it hasn't been done might as well do it now.
Timing belt tensioner: FS0112700B
Make sure it spins smoothly, if when it spins it makes noise(like an old skate board) its bad. Inspect visually for other signs of wear or damage. Replace as need
Timing idler pulley: FS0112730A
Make sure it spins smoothly, if when it spins it makes noise(like an old skate board) its bad. Inspect visually for other signs of wear or damage. Replace as need
Drive belts:
Inspect for wear. Replace them as need with belts of your choice.
Gates Racing belt for Alternator and water pump: GAT K040360RB
Clutch, Pressure Plate, and throw out bearing:
Replace as need, Highly recommend you upgrade now.
Fly Wheel:
Inspect for heat damage, cracking or warpage.
Get it service or replace as needed. This would be a great time to up grade as well.
Camshaft cap bolts: KL0210126
Inspect threads for signs of stretching and stripping. Replace as need
There are 20 if you plan to replace them all.
Exhaust manifold to head hardware:
ARP: 400-8023
Very nice set, they are 12pt so you can put a lot of force on them without the risk of stripping.
If the ARP set is not for you, use studs rather then bolts,and use copper locking nuts.
Throttle body gasket: FS0113655
You will most likely need this.
Intake Manifold plenum gasket
may be need if you delete the VTCS/VICS
Spark plugs and wires:
Look under MSP Aftermarket Listings for more info. (Link below)
NGK or oem for wires.
NGK for the plugs try to get a hold off on colder plug
Helpful links:
Compression Test Procedure
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123815851-Compression-Test-Procedure
Clearances and Torque Specs
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123785150-Clearances-and-Torque-Specs
Cam Gear bolt torque 37-44 ft./lbs.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123706885-cam-gear
Cam shaft installation guide:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?32015-How-To-Mazda-FS-DE-Camshaft-Installation
FS Engine/Revision/Cam Specs
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123713157-FS-Engine-Revision-Cam-Specs
VTCS/VICS Delete and Intake Manifold Modification
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-VICS-Delete-and-Intake-Manifold-Modification
How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...e-Install-Tranny-and-LSD-or-disassemble-gears
How to on filling engine mounts
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/enginemounts.html
Engine Rebuild Components - 2.0 FS
http://www.themazda forum.com/showthread.php/4285-Engine-Rebuild-Components-2.0-FS
How To Change Manual-Transmission Fluid
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123756052-How-To-Change-Manual-Transmission-Fluid
How to: Forged Motor and more
http://www.mp5t.com/?page_id=272
Mazdaspeed Protege Aftermarket Parts Listing
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?31763-Mazdaspeed-Protege-Aftermarket-Parts-Listing
