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CX-9 Timing Chain, Water Pump, and VVT - Engine does not need to be removed

GJ-Molestor

Banned
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2011 BMW 528i, 2015 Mazda 6, 1995 Nissan Maxima Manual
And old thread for sure. I read part of it and posted my lament. Had to delete and retype something current. Glad to see you get this potentially draconian job sorted out without removal of the entire engine per Mazda's spec. This was really good to hear for your sake. However, it makes me wonder Mazda's Accessory Design strategy and whether or not that carried over into the redesigned versions. I have not yet been that deep into the engine compartment on my 2018, but this thread has given a very good reason to start that exploration - just to see what I might run into in the future.

Thanks for the post and congrats on the "workaround."
fitting a large displacement v6 into a FWD vehicle is no easy task. there were certainly compromises to be made. this is probably one of the reasons why mazda switched to a 2.5 turbo - more space to work on within the engine bay and a simpler design = less manufacturing costs for Mazda, and the turbo makes peak torque at a much more reasonable RPM. it's a win win situation?
 
G

Guest2018

fitting a large displacement v6 into a FWD vehicle is no easy task.
That's right. The last version was a V6, wasn't it. No, not an easy task.


...there were certainly compromises to be made. this is probably one of the reasons why mazda switched to a 2.5 turbo - more space to work on within the engine bay and a simpler design = less manufacturing costs for Mazda, and the turbo makes peak torque at a much more reasonable RPM. it's a win win situation?
Probably. The OP has still lit a fire in me. I was going to my DIY shop just to do an oil change, but I think I'll spend some time under the hood getting better acquainted with the real estate market inside there and seeing just how crowded it is. Probably will give the entire engine and bay a good cleaning while I'm in there - make it sparkle a bit. Another 20 minute oil change turned into a 3hr inspection and cleaning. I already cleaned and lubed the undercar last time.

Hey, there was another member in a different thread asking about a Transmission Cooler for the new CX-9. I added that info on a workable solution for an Engine Oil Cooler would also be interesting to me. Have you seen anything that looks decent out there? If the 2.5 package is smaller, there should be room for an Engine Oil Cooler - depending on what the rest of the bay looks like.
 
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1978 RX-3SP
So, do I upgrade the chains and ALL the related components while I have it apart. Yes, the chain streches with use but the darn water pump in the oil pan is always going to worry me. Why Mazda decided to use the Ford 3.5 and 3.7 Duratec engine with a Chevy/Ford transmission still baffles me.
 
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Mazda CX-9 GS AWD
This forum has saved me tons of cash already on my 2010 CX-9. I diagnosed the failed transfer case in about 10 minutes, which caused a broken output shaft from the transmission.
Another thread identified the broken rear diff solenoid wire. A few hundred bucks for shop to resolder it vs. thousands the dealer wanted for a new diff.
Now, thanks for the note on the water pump. Mine failed at about 200K Km. I have a mechanic friend of mine doing the work, with engine in car. He's replacing the water pump and all the cam chains, tensioners while in there. No sense scrimping on a few parts now.
Thanks to everyone that posts this valuable information.

So far, its primarily the Ford parts which have failed.
 
Accessing the timing chain, water pump, and VVT actuators require removal of the timing chain cover which there seems to be some debate on if the engine needs to be removed to accomplish this. The Mazda service manual says to remove it, but I think that is just because it is a tight fit and there is not a lot of room to work with. Most people would not want to remove the engine just to replace one of these components and luckily we do not have to. I just completed replacement of all of these parts in my 2011 Mazda CX-9 and the engine did not need to be removed. I did have to raise and lower the engine as needed to access bolts and remove the timing chain cover, but that is not unusual when replacing a timing chain on most front-wheel drive vehicles. I'm working on the DIY for this, which may take me a week or two, but wanted to start up the thread for this.
Just finished replacing timing chains, water pump and power steering pump on my 2008 CX 9 with 173,000 miles. Chain worn some but not bad. As stated on yourtube video worst part was reinstalling the power steering pump. It is a pain in the neck because I had to use a mirror to loosen and reinstall the top mounting bolt. One thing I did to help with the installation of the timing cover was to install two guide pins to ease with the alignment so as not to mess up the sealant on the block. I found two metric bolts 3" long, cut off the head, cut a screwdriver slot on the end and then tapered it round so the cover would slip over it easily. One pin was installed in one of the block top holes and the other one in one of the very bottom block mounting holes. This worked fantastic. Slid the timing cover over the pins and push it onto the two alignment dowel pins and bolted everything up. No messing up the sealant. Just my suggestion for all you do it yourselfs.
 
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