2007~2015 CX-9 Rear diff problem solved

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Mazda CX-9 GS AWD
About the aftermarket solution for the diff wire, the thing is only us in northern places where there is salt have these problems, where they don't use salt on the roads the problem must not be there.

if you have a flashing awd, that is not it, the wire problem on the rear diff would lit a solid awd symbol. A flashing awd symbol for 10 seconds is a sign the awd system isn't working, so either transfer case or front diff teeth that are chewed up.


My light is on solid. The rear wheels don't drive when the front wheels spin in mud/snow. I've had all the problems. Broken transfer case (replaced 3x under Mazda extended warranty), the last time the transmission output shaft splines were sheared off.
It makes sense that only the northern/salty roads that cause the problem. But there must still be a few million of these units our there. Unless Ford ran the wire into the case in a different manner?
 
if the light is solid than yes it is the solenoid, you should be able to fix it.

what did you do for the sheared splines? How did they solved it? New Diff? That must have cost a lot of money!
 
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Mazda CX-9 GS AWD
if the light is solid than yes it is the solenoid, you should be able to fix it.

what did you do for the sheared splines? How did they solved it? New Diff? That must have cost a lot of money!


I will try to take a look at it over the holidays if I can get access to a friends heated garage with a lift.

My dealer actually worked with me to get the transmission problem solved, surprisingly enough. Although it took a long time. At first they didn't believe my diagnosis of the sheared splines (based on the excellent information on this site). They even took the car to Mazda HQ.

In the end they had a local transmission shop source an output shaft from a used transmission and rebuilt mine. Or maybe I got the other used transmission, I can't be sure. The job cost me $2,000 which I was not pleased about, but better than having to buy a new transmission.
 
I will try to take a look at it over the holidays if I can get access to a friends heated garage with a lift.

My dealer actually worked with me to get the transmission problem solved, surprisingly enough. Although it took a long time. At first they didn't believe my diagnosis of the sheared splines (based on the excellent information on this site). They even took the car to Mazda HQ.

In the end they had a local transmission shop source an output shaft from a used transmission and rebuilt mine. Or maybe I got the other used transmission, I can't be sure. The job cost me $2,000 which I was not pleased about, but better than having to buy a new transmission.

damn 2000$ isn't a bad price considering the amount of work needed for such a job from a dealership.
 
i don't know how the inner parts work but it seems like it is just a magnet that connects the driveshaft to the rear diff when the magnet is engaged. Not sure what you mean by solenoid...
 
Hello all,
I have a 2013 CX-9 AWD and my 4WD light came on last week. It does not necessarily comes on right away when I drive. I can't see a specific speed where it comes on. Sometimes it does come on after a couple of minutes, sometimes it takes more time (mileage) and sometimes it just does not come on. When it comes on it stays solid until I switch off the car. I found this thread so I was getting ready to do the repair explained by Puma and shown in video by Mixamillian (thanks to both of you btw!!) but when I try to read the code when the light is on with my OBD2 reader it says "No code". I went under the car but the wires on the coupling unit don't seem to be cut. What you think? Wires are not cut but solenoid connection is starting to fail? The solenoid itself is bad?
My CX-9 had a transfer case replaced as well but since I found out what this transfer case problem was all about I replaced oil on a very frequent basis (almost every engine oil change).
 
i don't think you'll get an obd code with this problem as it is not engine related. I'd say try to lower the front of the diff to see if the wires seems so start to cut, they usually cut right where they enter the diff. They start to corrode first.
 
i don't think you'll get an obd code with this problem as it is not engine related. I'd say try to lower the front of the diff to see if the wires seems so start to cut, they usually cut right where they enter the diff. They start to corrode first.
Ok thanks for the reply! I was expecting a code and wanted to validate it since you indicated in post #1 getting code p1887. How did you get that code? I am preparing my gear to get this job started over the weekend. I managed to take close videos and pictures of the wires entering the unit but I can't see any problem. I will first try to lower the diff to have a clear view before removing it all. Again thanks for your advices.
 
hmm yeah just saw that lol, i didn't remember it gave me a code, well maybe you are right after all. It might be something inside the diff. Honestly from that point i don't really know as if the wire was cut, seems like yes you would get a code.

sorry i can't be of more help
 
Ok here is the update on my problem. I did repair it. Huge thanks to puma for starting this thread and Mixamillian for the youtube video. Everything went pretty well other than the fact that 4 bolts out of 8 snapped on me while removing the coupling unit from the diff! So I'd say if you plan on doing this repair, remove the drive shaft, remove the coupling unit brackets, lower the diff while supporting it with a jack to allow it to lean torward the ground (careful not to strecth too much and damage the diff cable here). That will give you the chance to shoot PBBlaster from behind the bolt and let it penetrate over night.
If you feel too much resistance while removing the bolts you could still use some heat on the housing around the bolts and it should come off.
I was finally able to remove the snapped bolt with a lot of heat and good vice grips (luckily they were sticking out long enough!)
So in the end, I'm very happy that I was able to repair this car that I like very much. Too bad I am now going to sell it since I bought a truck which fits more my needs these days.
 
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Mazda CX-9 GS AWD
Ok here is the update on my problem. I did repair it. Huge thanks to puma for starting this thread and Mixamillian for the youtube video. Everything went pretty well other than the fact that 4 bolts out of 8 snapped on me while removing the coupling unit from the diff! So I'd say if you plan on doing this repair, remove the drive shaft, remove the coupling unit brackets, lower the diff while supporting it with a jack to allow it to lean torward the ground (careful not to strecth too much and damage the diff cable here). That will give you the chance to shoot PBBlaster from behind the bolt and let it penetrate over night.
If you feel too much resistance while removing the bolts you could still use some heat on the housing around the bolts and it should come off.
I was finally able to remove the snapped bolt with a lot of heat and good vice grips (luckily they were sticking out long enough!)
So in the end, I'm very happy that I was able to repair this car that I like very much. Too bad I am now going to sell it since I bought a truck which fits more my needs these days.

Good to know you could do the repair. I just gave mine to my son and reminded him its only a Front Wheel drive truck now ;) I had the water pump replaced 2 yrs ago so the engine is good. Luckily a mechanic friend did it for 1/2 the cost of a shop. The only thing left to fail is the transmission, as we get an occasional shudder under low load in 3rd,4th gear changes.