College Student First Car Build

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2003 Mazda Protege5
Update to the check engine light:
I found my scanner (after searching everywhere) and got a P0300 and P0660 code.
Already ordered the solenoid (which won't be here until 8/28 but I only paid $10 vs. 150)
I was surprised to find a Mitsubishi logo on them
but if it works it works. Going to try to find the vacuum leak at work next week and inspect the plugs and wires in a moment. if it ain't one thing its another
 

Riot_Polizei

Comp Engineering Student
:
2002 Mazda Protege5
Update to the check engine light:
I found my scanner (after searching everywhere) and got a P0300 and P0660 code.
Already ordered the solenoid (which won't be here until 8/28 but I only paid $10 vs. 150)
I was surprised to find a Mitsubishi logo on them
but if it works it works. Going to try to find the vacuum leak at work next week and inspect the plugs and wires in a moment. if it ain't one thing its another
I'm right there with you my man...even after my header swap-in + new gaskets, I'm faced with more exhaust leaks and potentially a motor mount failure. Booyyy I'm done spending money!!

Yeah man, lots of Japanese auto manufacturers share parts since it's cheaper. Surprised me too!

Btw, you should check out the solenoid jury-rig fix that PCB posted on my build page. It's pretty smart IMO
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
It never ends! We have yearly state inspections here in VA and I'm praying the Mazda and bike pass cause I don't want to fix anything else. The truck somehow passes every year but shouldn't in any way whatsoever (Nc is lest strict but still).

I knew manufactures shared parts, but I was expecting something more Ford from this era, definitely not Mitsubishi!
He did send me some stuff on how to connect them without the actual connectors, but for now, they work and I didn't break the plastic
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Found the vacuum leak on the intake in the tube right past the MAF sensor before it gets to the throttle body. I wanted a CAI a while ago but never got one, guess this is an excuse to get one now!

I am a little concerned as when I pulled the spark plugs and wires to check them, the plug from cylinder #4 was VERY oily and dirty. The others had progressively less oil in each of them (with #2 and 1 being almost dry) but just another thing to worry about. I then checked the oil and it was a quart low which I knew it would be as there is a slight leak coming from somewhere, and I'm not complaining cause 1 quart in 7 months and 6500 miles is great if you ask me.
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
If you're saying the threads on the sparkplug is where the the oil is, then it's most likely your valve cover gasket that is leaking.

It has built in seals for each of the four sparkplug holes.

 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
If you're saying the threads on the sparkplug is where the the oil is, then it's most likely your valve cover gasket that is leaking.

It has built in seals for each of the four sparkplug holes.

That's what I thought. Funnily enough, the Mazda dealership I went to replaced the valve cover gasket. I'm just going to buy one and do it myself
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
Make sure you remove and replace the cover bolts in the correct order. The Mazda guys may not have tightened it properly causing it to leak.





You might be able to loosen then retighten the bolts but it sounds like your gasket is squashed on one side.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
I have no clue what they did or if they even replaced it. I didn't pay them to so me buying one isn't a concern. Just finding the time. Do you happen to have the torque specs for the bolts?
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
Don't over tighten the bolts. My car came with one of the cover bolts broken with the stud stuck in the hole and my parts car came with two bolts broken.
The bolts have metal spacers on them that keep you from squashing the gasket too far.

Use a torque wrench if you have to or put a socket on a screwdriver handle to turn them in.



Keep track of your bolts too, some are different lengths.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
That's why I asked. I broke off a bolt on my GF's Sonata oil pan and don't want to deal with it. I'll have to get one with inch pounds on it.
Do you lube the gasket like an oil filter before you put it in or just seat it and tighten it down?
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
It looks like it's supposed to be completely clean.

Don't forget the silicone,.. If it leaks at that spot it drips on your timing belt and you can't see it.

Black or blue RTV silicone will work fine but I wouldn't use stuff for sinks and tubs.

 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
That's why I asked. I broke off a bolt on my GF's Sonata oil pan and don't want to deal with it.
Our oil drain plug is bad too,... It's got a huge head on it, I think it's 19 or 21 mm but has really fine thread with very little torque,... Then you put the huge wrench on it and strip the threads.

My friends truck is better,.. Same big drain plug but a 10 mm head on it.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Our oil drain plug is bad too,... It's got a huge head on it, I think it's 19 or 21 mm but has really fine thread with very little torque,... Then you put the huge wrench on it and strip the threads.

My friends truck is better,.. Same big drain plug but a 10 mm head on it.
Parts list is growing, but thank you for everything!

luckily (in a weird way) it wasn't the drain plug I broke, but one of the bolts in the gasket. Im looking at getting a Mishimoto magnetic drain plus cause I have no clue what all that gunk on the spark plug was
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
That dirt came down the tube for the sparkplug and mixed with the oil.
The sparkplug boot covers but doesn't completely seal the hole.
I had a similar issue when my valve cover bolt in the middle of the cover started to leak and run down my sparkplug hole. The plug was oily and dirty too.

Dust and dirt will find it's way into there but it wasn't getting in your oil,.. The oil pressure pushes oil out but it doesn't run back in.

The magnetic drain plug is still a good idea if you pull the plug and it's covered in metal fuzz then you've got an idea how your engine is doing.

Oh.. Get a valve cover gasket that comes with the grommets for the bolts so the bolts don't leak at the boltheads.
 

323

lolmsp lolms3
I got the dnj valve cover gasket and grommet kit on rockauto and it seems fine on the p5. I got the blue fel pro one for my msp and I don*t like it. Not sure what the blue material is. It seems to not really be rubbery and breaks off and crumbles? Just thought I*d put it out there.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Well, the intake and solenoid got here Thursday and Friday and I installed it this morning. The old intake had a huge rip in it. However, when I got it all off and put back together there is still that high pitched whistling so I have to check for a leak. Using carb cleaner on the vacuum lines I saw didn't show anything so I will have to dive into it when I have the time.
There's a more concerning issue is happening, however, I cleared the codes to get rid of the P0660 and hoped the P0300 would go away, but after a short drive it came back on and I checked again and ended up getting a P0340 code. Reset it again and drove it another few miles and the only remaining code is the P0300.
However, when I'm driving, the car will drop a few hundred RPM and then raise again back to the original RPM abruptly and the car will lurch very violently and make a horrible sounding clunk (I assume that is the gearbox or something cause the gear shift moves back and forth violently.) I'm praying that is the misfire issue and not a broken transmission as it only does it randomly and not too often

I love new car parts <3
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
After much research and going back and forth, I decided to tackle the CEL by starting with the plugs and wires. I have no clue how old they are and replacing them gives me the knowledge that they've been done. Unfortunately, school starts again tomorrow and I literally have $0.07 in my account (oh the joys of school starting). With school starting tomorrow, I'd rather do it today and everything is way more expensive in the auto part stores but I have no choice as the running is getting worse. I'm going to tackle the vacuum leak later (still buying another can of carb cleaner to try to find the leak) but the car ran fine with the vacuum leak, so it's going to have to.
I have discovered that the transmission isn't the issue cause with the car in neutral if I try to hold it steady at like 2k RPM, it'll hold for a second and then drop to 1500, raise again to 2k and repeat randomly.
 
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