Bye Mazda 2017 CX-5 Touring AWD

Davidiot

Ballistic Reentry Vehicle
:
2020 CX-5 GT PP
LOL

Folks, invest $20 in a basic OBD II scanner so you can check the codes the CEL is throwing and have some idea of what's wrong BEFORE you take it to a mechanic.

You can just borrow the one they have behind the counter at the auto parts store.
 

Davidiot

Ballistic Reentry Vehicle
:
2020 CX-5 GT PP
Here’s the thing. You paid your mechanic to fix your car, and the mechanic gave it back to you still doing the same thing. What did you pay for?

That mechanic clearly didn’t test drive your car after “fixing it”. Forget the reviews, you have a shitty mechanic.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I just got rid of my 2017 CX-5 AWD touring. After 67,000 miles check in engine light came on.Last Thursday my engine while idle either parked starting up or at stop light the engine would rumble and shake. My mechanic worked on it for 2 days and replaced fuel injection system 4 sparks plugs and engine coils. But he also showed me and explained that 1 of my engine header valves was burnt and advised me that would need to be repaired eventually. That repair would have cost me $2800 parts alone not including labor which would have been at least 1 week and half or close to 2 weeks because it would be a complete tear down and repair. Luckily for me I got the check engine light cleared I found a couple local Honda dealers who appraised it and took it off my hands at 1K above KBB used appraisal value they paid off my car loan on the cx-5 and I did not roll over negative equity or balance on the new 2020 Honda Accord EX Hybrid I got. Mileage was ok at 26 to 28 MPG during the time I had it but infotainment system was slow and even after I bought and installed the OEM usb hardware update for Apple Car Play and updated the infotainment firmware it worked well but would crash sometimes or carplay would not recognize my Iphone 11 Pro. Before people ask I did the regular maintenance religiously through a Mazda dealer for the first 2 years and then with a high rated independent mechanic. Oil changes were done with Castrol full synthetic at Mazda dealers and then switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and still bought and used OEM Mazda oil filter. Break pads were replaced and 2 sets of Bridgestone tires were rotated on schedule and replaced.

I honestly don't like the direction Mazda is headed with the CX-50 in about 2 to 3 years and after this 2017 CX-5 I won't buy a Mazda again.
Appreciate your story although it’s a sad one. People who may have similar problems on their CX-5 could learn some lessons from your story. I too feel like your mechanic is a questionable one based on your story. But in the end you’ve got rid of a potential problem, and got a brand new Accord hybrid for a peace of mind.

If you don’t mind to get a OBDII code reader, you can always go to auto parts stores such as AutoZone to read the codes and get appropriate solutions for free. Thus you can have some better ideas about your CELs and possible solutions. You won’t get fooled too easily by those indie mechanics.

Yes, no cylinder deactivation recall for OP’s 2017 CX-5. Mazda added CD feature started on 2018 CX-5 without any advanced warnings. It made me canceled my plan to purchase a 2018 CX-5 GT AWD, once I found out it was real.
 
:
2013 Mazda CX-5 Sport FWD Auto
It was a '17 model. There is no CD on '17 models.
I got one so I should know. I believe it began with '18 models (non-turbo).

To OP. Sorry to hear the problems you faced.
I don't know what this means: " header valves was burnt "
Anyway. Good luck with your Honda Accord hybrid.

my bad. Had to get the recall done for my mother in laws CX5. Forgot it was an ‘18, not a ‘17.
 
I came to Mazda from Honda because their quality has gone downhill. I still own 3 Hondas though. Op, did you get Honda Care? If you haven't and were still thinking about it, you can get it online for 1/3 to 1/2 of what your dealer probably offered you.
 

Davidiot

Ballistic Reentry Vehicle
:
2020 CX-5 GT PP
I came to Mazda from Honda because their quality has gone downhill. I still own 3 Hondas though. Op, did you get Honda Care? If you haven't and were still thinking about it, you can get it online for 1/3 to 1/2 of what your dealer probably offered you.

Yup. Mazda’s are getting better, Honda’s are getting worse.
 

Chocolate

Harpy Eagle
:
2019 CX-5 AWD
LOL

Folks, invest $20 in a basic OBD II scanner so you can check the codes the CEL is throwing and have some idea of what's wrong BEFORE you take it to a mechanic.

Very good advice. These are absolutely an essential glovebox item, whether you have zero mechanical knowledge or are an expert.
 
Very good advice. These are absolutely an essential glovebox item, whether you have zero mechanical knowledge or are an expert.
I don't necessarily agree with this.

Auto parts stores are on nearly every corner in the US.
They will read codes and give you a printout of everything that shows up.
 
:
Ottawa, Ontario
:
17 Mazda 6 GT
Did your mechanic ever do a compression test?
Sounds like this should have been one of the first things done given the burnt valve diagnosis.
Also, why did he replace the fuel injection system if there's a bad valve?
I have to agree with some of the other posters. Get another mechanic that understands the basics.
 
Sad story but at least you've got a new car. I've become a bit sceptical about the longevity of these petrol engines though I know there a lot of loyal fans on here.

Did you ever have the air intake valves and air intake manifold cleaned or inspected whilst you owned it?
 
:
13' CX-5 and 16' Mazda6 both Touring w/Tech/Bose
Sorry and I forgot to mention a key issue that was diagnosed and found by my mechanic is that I had a engine misfire on 1 of the 4 cylinders.

Basically this is very similar to my problem in this video:


First off thanks for this video. Saved to my favorites for Skyactiv troubleshooting. That said the vid provided a way to identify the issue between 8 possible culprits (4 spark plugs and 4 coil packs.) Cool trick. Oh and that car had original plugs well past 100k miles!! Recommended change is at 70-75k ish miles.

In your situation, the first question I had, why the heck is the fuel injection system changed? I would've just changed the spark plugs since it was near that time anyways and then clear the codes with my $20 bluetooth scanner. Second question is WHAT kind of spark plugs did the mechanic use? Using non OEM or any non-approved spark plugs at least will still cause issues.

Real life experience: I had check engine light go out in my Mazda6 at I think 30k miles. What the heck? Long story short after pulling my plugs to inspect (looks new) I though ok maybe a coil pack? I had just done an oil change the day before. It turned out I forgot to put the oil dipstick back causing a vacuum leak!!! I installed properly and cleared the codes. No check light issues returned and I'm at 70k miles.
 

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