Make sure to read discussions on EPB Maintenance Mode created by tomcat1446:Hi guys,
I am going to replace the brake pads (or attempt to) on my nephews 2016.5 CX-5 GT. I have done brakes pads before, but wanted to make sure there's nothing "special" involved in replacing pads on a CX-5? I purchased some OEM pads, and rotors.
This’s really a personal preference. I usually turn the rotor all the time unless it’s getting close to thickness limit. Yes almost any auto parts store can do it for you. I simply feel it’s wasteful to throw away useful rotors.Thanks for all of the info guys. So, I am going to do the pads/rotors today or tomorrow, and noticed that the rotors appear to be in decent condition. I am pretty sure I could save some money and have them turned. Has anyone done this vs. replacing them? If so, have you had good luck with them wearing well? I am not sure which way to go here. My local Napa will turn rotors from what I've been told.
I haven’t replaced my rear rotors at 42K miles by myself on my 2016 CX-5 as I got full set of new rear brakes including revised calipers at about 28k miles from EPB dragging TSB under warranty. But I‘ve turned many rotors on other vehicles I’ve owned, including 3 times on front disk rotors for my 1998 Honda CR-V with 183K miles. There’s nothing wrong to reuse your old rotors which are properly turned, unless they’re warped、too thin、or have too much rust on them. Never had any problems.Perfect! I'll give it a shot. Do the resurfaced rotors hold-up pretty good for you?
The factory front rotors on my 2000 BMW 528i are “one-time-use” rotors. Once the factory pads are worn, the factory rotors are also too thin to be reused. The same on my every previous VW vehicles.⋯
If they are not badly scored, warped, or worn too thin (never seems to happen), I just reuse them.
Not true. We’re talking about almost unmeasurable area loss for heat dissipation by lathing a very thin layer of metal from rotor. Turning brake rotors down to remove the excess brake material from your pads and to prevent warping and grinding, thus extending the life of your brake pads. There‘s always a minimum thickness spec for brake rotor stated in factory service manual and even on factory rotor itself. The car engineers should know better giving you a minimum thickness spec for the rotor.The thinner that you make your rotors the more that they will heat up and warp again. Nobody turns rotors any more.
What is this "maintenance mode" that you are talking about?You'll want to google or search on here or the net about the rear brake replacement procedure, especially the requirement regarding maintenance mode.
Attempting to push or turn in the rear caliper piston without having gone into maintenance mode could result in a damaged caliper, (and a replacement required). Be careful.
Just another data point - I never turn rotors. If they need turning, I just replace them. They are not that expensive, and I feel taking off material just makes them more likely to warp in the future, especially in front.
If they are not badly scored, warped, or worn too thin (never seems to happen), I just reuse them. Our 2006 CRV with 180K miles still has original, unturned rotors and they look fine. I didn't replace rotors on my RAV4 until over 100K miles. Fords have been a different story, I rarely got more than 50K miles on the front (Windstar, F150) without them warping.
What is this "maintenance mode" that you are talking about?
I find that unless the brakes are really pulsating it's ok to just leave the rotors alone. I've done that several times with no problem. Just break in the pads gradually to bed them to the shape of the rotors.The thinner that you make your rotors the more that they will heat up and warp again. Nobody turns rotors any more.