Boring Daily Build

[pcb]

This was my front caliper.
Note the torn boot from being pinched.





This was my rear brake piston.
I actually cleaned it up and it's still working. Lol. No leaks.








If you use any lubricant you have to use "rubber grease" or synthetic oil.
WD-40 will dissolve your boot and seal.

 

[Spencer_P]

I don’t see any tears in the boot and the piston looks fine under the boot

 

[pcb]

Try removing the metal plate and put the threaded part of the c-clamp into the brake piston and push from the bottom.

 

[pcb]

If the brake piston is too tight, it won't release and your brakes will drag.
It does take a lot of pressure to push the piston in though.

 

[Spencer_P]

Got it, thanks.
Definitely not as easy as the drivers side but I got it.

 

[pcb]

Keep that dust boot in mind when you close up the caliper.
The boot sticks out further than the piston when the piston is fully retracted.

 

[Spencer_P]

All finished up. Since I got the cheapo rotors I gave them two coats of paint and let them bake in the sun while I took everything apart. Tonight I’ll go bed the brakes.

 

[pcb]

Looks good!

I don't paint mine.
I coat them with grease or anti-seize.

 

[Spencer_P]

After about 25 minutes of driving and bedding the brakes the front passenger rotor is 240 F compared to the rest of them at 150 F so somethings not right there. Also it's due for its 50 mile oil change. Also very close to out of gas lol. Another also, while bedding the brakes during the stop and go I think I tripped the tranny into working/not working lol. One time I think it felt pretty normal didn't seem to have the loss in power I noted, which I credited to the engine being on its last leg. Now I'm curious if the trans is the culprit, although when you put the pedal to the floor the RPM doesn't really care or go up too much so maybe not... Anyways the RPM started going up to 5,000 which it hadn't been, not sure where the normal shift points are, but nonetheless it didn't necessarily sound like it was struggling when it went to 5,000 so I'll take that as a good thing. Just throwing this all out there. I won't change the oil till I get gas and I can't mess with the tranny until I'm back at school.

 

[pcb]

After about 25 minutes of driving and bedding the brakes the front passenger rotor is 240 F compared to the rest of them at 150 F.

That caliper is probably binding. It's not releasing when you let off the brakes.
You might need a new caliper.

(I don't know much about the automatic transmission.)

 

[Spencer_P]

Hmmm not looking forward to that.
Are reman calipers generally what people go with?

 

[pcb]

Reman fronts are OK.
It's the rears that can be a problem.

New OEM are expensive...

 

[Spencer_P]

Any preferred brands? These Cardones seem to be the cheapest.
I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet but

I guess I should make sure the bleeder will open on the driver's side before I order as well.

 

[pcb]

Not for me.
I don't even remember what brand I bought.

I just got the cheapest.


I didn't want to ship my cores back...

 

[Spencer_P]

I typically like to hold on to my old junk but I need it to be cheap lol

 

[pcb]

Chances are that the caliper will last as long as the rest of your car.

 

[BenjiHoggi]

I'm definitely following this conversation.
Over my admittedly short ownership, my car has never had a functional parking brake, which I diagnosed as an internal issue with both rear calipers. Adjustment screws are seized, i've checked. Really wanting to have a parking brake again but not wanting to spend tons, but also wanting to avoid this problem for the future, as I know the rear calipers on Proteges can be problematic.

*sigh.* I just want stuff to work. Guess I shouldn't have bought an old car if I wanted that though.

 

[Spencer_P]

In all the years we owned it the parking brake was more for decoration or emotional support, but after "adjusting" it seems to be slightly better. There may still be an issue, but I'm not too concerned with having a parking brake.

 

[pcb]

Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.
You can tighten it to take up the slack from stretched cables.

 

[BenjiHoggi]

In all the years we owned it the parking brake was more for decoration or emotional support, but after "adjusting" it seems to be slightly better. There may still be an issue, but I'm not too concerned with having a parking brake.

Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.
You can tighten it to take up the slack from stretched cables.

Thank you both for the feedback.

Alas, I have read and tried all of this already before, with no positive result. The problem is not with the handle adjustment. I jacked the car up and removed the wheels and the cables were taught. Pulled the cables off and tried to adjust the calipers with the little screws. One of the screws turned freely then fell out - no adjustment. The the other wouldn't budge - no adjustment.

Suggestions welcome. Sorry to sorta kinda hijack your thread Spencer_P

Benji