Boring Daily Build

[pcb]

Maybe poke a screwdriver through the bolt hole and see how far it goes in.

You may not need to cut it.

I hope you didn't bugger up your threads in the cross member.??

 

[pcb]

There might be plenty of room on the other side If the weld-nut.

A shorter bolt may not make full contact with all the threads.

 

[Spencer_P]

I’ll check.


I don’t want to talk about it... lol

 

[Spencer_P]

There’s only about an eighth of an inch past the length of the stock bolt so I’ll still have to cut it.

 

[pcb]

The none threaded part of the new bolt appears to be longer.

But it looks like the old bolt didn't use all the threads so it should be OK.
Make sure you use the washer to take up some space.

The rusty threads probably rusted because they weren't all threaded into the weld-nut and were inside the sleeve of part #8.

 

[Spencer_P]

Welp I think I screwed the threads up... I guess I need to order a tap and dye kit? I cut the bolt today but it won't thread. I've never used a tap and I don't know how to know that I'm getting the right one. Man this sucks.

 

[pcb]

Remove the bracket and control arm and try to thread the bolt in.

The threads may be okay. It may just be that damn bolt getting lined up properly.

My threads were fine but I struggled, bitched and swore at getting that bolt in.

 

[pcb]

Use the old bolt to retry and maybe reset the first couple of threads in the weld nut.
(the threads are probably fine, .. It just that damn bolt.)

Rounding off the tip of your new bolt might help it get the threads lined up.

Copy the shape of the old bolt.
A square-cut new bolt probably won't thread in worth a crap.

 

[pcb]

Make your new bolt look like this...

 

[pcb]

If it were me, I'd just reuse the old bolt.

The rusty part of the bolt isn't threading into the weld nut and it's not like it's gonna snap.

And your not rebuilding a race car...

 

[Spencer_P]

I had to run out for a second but I’ll remove the bracket and such and try. I couldn’t get the old bolt threaded but maybe it was just getting it lined up. I’ll try. How would you suggest tapering the end of the new bolt?

definitely far from a race car. The more time I spend under it it’s a rust-car lol.

 

[pcb]

"ow would you suggest tapering the end of the new bolt?"

You roll the tip around on a grinder.

 

[Spencer_P]

Hmm that may have to wait until tomorrow at school again. While I do have a flap disc that might work, my grinder has a wire wheel stuck to it

 

[pcb]

You oughta get some cutoff disks... They're super handy.
And a grinding wheel.
(you only need one, ... they last forever... they're thick)

Wear a dust mask and safety glasses though...
You don't want to breathe in that dust or catch a piece of shrapnel in your eye.

 

[Spencer_P]

Yeah I’ve been meaning to.
Okay #8 fiasco is done, fingers crossed. I took the control arm back out forced the original bolt back through, taking it in and out kinda like a tap, until it was smooth and had straightened the threads out. Then put everything back in. I have to get the ball joint slipped in and then torque everything.

 

[pcb]

Awesome!!!

 

[Spencer_P]

Untitled

New item · Album by 1996 XJ

photos.app.goo.gl

Is it supposed to take some force to turn towards me and then kick back like this?

that clicking noise is the axle

 

[Spencer_P]

Also for the torque specs there’s a pretty big range on the bolts, should I just do in between the two?

 

[Spencer_P]

Another thing lol, does the car have to be on the ground to torque some of these?

I only have a deep socket 17 so I can’t really fit a torque wrench on the front bushing bolt without fear of rounding it.

 

[pcb]

"
Is it supposed to take some force to turn towards me and then kick back like this?
"

The force your applying is only probably 1% of the force that deals with going down the road