Boring Daily Build

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Reman fronts are OK.
It's the rears that can be a problem.

New OEM are expensive...
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
Any preferred brands? These Cardones seem to be the cheapest.
I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet but

I guess I should make sure the bleeder will open on the driver's side before I order as well.
Annotation 2020-04-11 210908.png
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Not for me.
I don't even remember what brand I bought.

I just got the cheapest.


I didn't want to ship my cores back...


 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I'm definitely following this conversation.
Over my admittedly short ownership, my car has never had a functional parking brake, which I diagnosed as an internal issue with both rear calipers. Adjustment screws are seized, i've checked. Really wanting to have a parking brake again but not wanting to spend tons, but also wanting to avoid this problem for the future, as I know the rear calipers on Proteges can be problematic.

*sigh.* I just want stuff to work. Guess I shouldn't have bought an old car if I wanted that though.
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
In all the years we owned it the parking brake was more for decoration or emotional support, but after "adjusting" it seems to be slightly better. There may still be an issue, but I'm not too concerned with having a parking brake.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.
You can tighten it to take up the slack from stretched cables.


 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
In all the years we owned it the parking brake was more for decoration or emotional support, but after "adjusting" it seems to be slightly better. There may still be an issue, but I'm not too concerned with having a parking brake.
Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.
You can tighten it to take up the slack from stretched cables.



Thank you both for the feedback.

Alas, I have read and tried all of this already before, with no positive result. The problem is not with the handle adjustment. I jacked the car up and removed the wheels and the cables were taught. Pulled the cables off and tried to adjust the calipers with the little screws. One of the screws turned freely then fell out - no adjustment. The the other wouldn't budge - no adjustment.

Suggestions welcome. Sorry to sorta kinda hijack your thread Spencer_P :p

Benji
 
Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.
You can tighten it to take up the slack from stretched cables.


Hi. Sorry to interrupt, but while you're on the topic of parking brakes...
I just adjusted my handbrake yesterday and the light doesn't doesn't come on when it's engaged anymore. Anybody know why that would be?
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
There's an electric switch connected to the P-brake handle mechanism that is either dirty, broken or disconnected.

Other people have had change fall down and short out the switch then the light won't shut off.
 

31N007

31N007
:
Mazda Protege5
Don't forget that there's an adjustment screw/nut under the P-brake handle.

Is that the more acceptable manner by which to adjust the parking brake? I have always removed the 12mm (or 14, can't remember) bolt on the backside of the rear caliper and used an allen key to move the piston "preload" in or out as required... (Granted, I've yet to do that on my most recent P5.

Spencer, I know your pain regarding bent LCAs... Happy you managed to save this one. Mine was my fault - cement culvert walls don't tend to move very easily..

IMG_20190706_172426780_HDR.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Is that the more acceptable manner by which to adjust the parking brake? I have always removed the 12mm (or 14, can't remember) bolt on the backside of the rear caliper and used an Allen key to move the piston "preload" in or out as required... (Granted, I've yet to do that on my most recent P5.

No, it's not.

But you shouldn't have to adjust your rear brakes (which also sets your brake pedal height) by removing that bolt and adjusting the Allen screw.

Our rear brakes are self-adjusting.
The action of pulling the P-brake handle is supposed to rotate the brake pistons in automatically.
(in towards the pads. out from the brake caliper bore.)

The two different adjustments work in tandem to get the proper setting.

There are all kinds of weird gizmos inside that I have yet to wrap my head around. Lol

They are supposed to ratchet the rear pistons out.


About the rear calipers...






The pictures are at the end...







These parts don't last forever and I doubt that they are being replaced when the caliper is remanufactured.


Our rear calipers are one odd duck.

I don't think there's anything else the same.













Keep in mind that the P-brake cable connection point needs a full rotation to properly adjust itself.

Too much slack and it won't ratchet forward.
Too tight and it won't properly "unclick".




 
Last edited:

Latest posts