Boring Daily Build

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2003 Mazda Protege5
Judging by the gash in the wheel it looks like he tried to turn but slide into the median and the passenger side tire was caked in mud but that could've just been from pulling on the side of the road to wait for a tow.

I don't particularly feel like replacing the steering rack lol.

Yeah, you mentioned that. Not having self steer is more bothersome than just being hard to turn left, which isn't too noticeable when driving.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Brake pads and rotors are here, I plan to get them on today. When I was greasing the slide pins, one of the caliper pistons didn't want to budge with a huge c-clamp so hopefully I don't end up needing calipers...
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
You're going to have to push in the brake piston to make room for the new (thicker) pads.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Well this is where I’m at. The piston doesn’t want to go any further than that. Is this something wd-40 or opening the bleeder will help?
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
The piston is probably rusty and will no longer fit back into the bore.

Use a dental pick or tiny screwdriver to pull back the dust boot and check the condition of the piston.

It looks like your dust boot is torn and probably let water in.

You may be able to extend the piston out and sand the rust off (don't pop it right out or you'll have to bleed your brakes) but that's not the best idea and the seal may leak at that spot that was rusty when it's fully retracted.

You can rotate your piston to inspect it and maybe clean it.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
This was my front caliper.
Note the torn boot from being pinched.





This was my rear brake piston.
I actually cleaned it up and it's still working. Lol. No leaks.








If you use any lubricant you have to use "rubber grease" or synthetic oil.
WD-40 will dissolve your boot and seal.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
Try removing the metal plate and put the threaded part of the c-clamp into the brake piston and push from the bottom.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
If the brake piston is too tight, it won't release and your brakes will drag.
It does take a lot of pressure to push the piston in though.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
Keep that dust boot in mind when you close up the caliper.
The boot sticks out further than the piston when the piston is fully retracted.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
All finished up. Since I got the cheapo rotors I gave them two coats of paint and let them bake in the sun while I took everything apart. Tonight I’ll go bed the brakes.
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2003 Mazda Protege5
After about 25 minutes of driving and bedding the brakes the front passenger rotor is 240 F compared to the rest of them at 150 F so somethings not right there. Also it's due for its 50 mile oil change. Also very close to out of gas lol. Another also, while bedding the brakes during the stop and go I think I tripped the tranny into working/not working lol. One time I think it felt pretty normal didn't seem to have the loss in power I noted, which I credited to the engine being on its last leg. Now I'm curious if the trans is the culprit, although when you put the pedal to the floor the RPM doesn't really care or go up too much so maybe not... Anyways the RPM started going up to 5,000 which it hadn't been, not sure where the normal shift points are, but nonetheless it didn't necessarily sound like it was struggling when it went to 5,000 so I'll take that as a good thing. Just throwing this all out there. I won't change the oil till I get gas and I can't mess with the tranny until I'm back at school.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
After about 25 minutes of driving and bedding the brakes the front passenger rotor is 240 F compared to the rest of them at 150 F.


That caliper is probably binding. It's not releasing when you let off the brakes.
You might need a new caliper.

(I don't know much about the automatic transmission.)