Boring Daily Build

I suppose that at least you're getting some of that diesel fuel flowing past your oil rings.

Maybe even pouring a bit down the spark plug holes and let it drain down through.

I have no idea whether that's a good idea or not though.
I figure it would just burn off without any problems??

It would certainly be a cheap "solvent".
 
That video is from last time I drove it.

I did ATF down the cylinders about 3 times, one time I made the spark plugs not so happy lol.
I'll do some research and may try diesel instead.
 
Diesel, gasoline, varsol, methanol... Etc.

I figure as long as it doesn't foul your oil too much or make it want to ignite.

Or cause problems when it burns off above your pistons.


I remember putting too much gas line antifreeze in my dirt bike and melted a hole through the top of the piston.
(It was a standard small bottle meant for a vehicle with a 15-25 gallon fuel tank. My dirt bike only had a 2-gallon tank.)



Remember, I'm completely speculating.
 
I found half of the dealership paper license plate from when we bought it way back when. I used to have the window sticker and temp tag. Just like I used to have the dealer/factory spare key.
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Looking back at the service history, we purchased 11/2012. It has a really thorough service history, looking at it you wouldn't expect it to be burning oil.
 
I've got some old polish that was my great grandpas. Its at least 20 years old and I'm gonna test it on the Mazda lol
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Oil is changed, it didn’t blow up in the 30 seconds I ran it.

What’s the walkthrough on greasing the slide pins?
 
It doesn't matter what it's for.

Remove it, it ain't working no more.
(look to see what it attaches to though)


Get a new bolt for your exhaust.

Maybe remove one to compare it at the store.
(a new gasket too... at some point.)
 
I’ve got a new gasket, upper and lower.

I’m really not understanding these slide pins. Do you have to remove the caliper to get to the ones that don’t have a bolt head? Do I need an Allen key or something for the fronts?And the rear which has a 10 mm bolt head I can’t get loose
 
Yes, Allen key needed.

You don't remove the entire caliper.
You sort of take it half apart.

They flip up and open then the top half slides out.






(I did have some aftermarket calipers that had ordinary bolts though.)
 
I found a picture...

You slide the bottom pin towards the strut.





PS...

Be careful not to pinch your dust boot on the rotor when you rotate it back down.
(mine filled up with brine solution and seized. Lol)
 
I couldn't find my Allen keys so that'll have to wait.
I cleaned up the rotors and added antiseize. I don't think the rear wheels have been removed since the tires were put on in 2012 lol.
popped the wheels back on and drove around for about 14 miles. Doesn't like to shift into 4th, especially when getting up to highway speed, so I'd switch to manual-matic to help it out.

The last time it was parked in the garage it was getting a new radiator years ago.
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Here you can see the angle the drivers wheel is at compared to the passenger side that is straight.
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I'm assuming this wetness is gas but I can't see where it's coming from. Also, the CEL has yet to return.
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Tomorrow I plan on washing and polishing the paint and headlights. Then at night I'll give her some highway driving.
I'm curious to see if there will be a difference in cold start smoke with the thicker oil.
When my Jeep is done occupying the big boy jack stands I'll start cleaning up and painting the rust.
 
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if that were my car I'd crawl underneath it and see if I smell gas oil or water.

If you're leaking gas then you've bigger problems than a paint job and headlights.
 
I'm not paying anything, I've got product that's been sitting on a shelf for years and I'm bored.
The wetness doesn't smell like gas but it hasn't evaporated.
Besides if this things gonna get listed on craigslist I want the paint to shine lol
 
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