Bleeding brakes...
- Thread starter o.g.sk8er
- Start date
Just curious why you are bleeding them already. Is it to put in DOT5 spec fluid (higher wet boiling point) or are you changing pads already
if you are bleeding brakes i suggest putting in a better brake fluid than the DOT3 stuff...ATX Super Blue is a good brake fluid (same freezing point but much higher boiling point).
when bleeding the system you want to start at the passenger rear (farthest )...the brakes are then staggered via a 2 channel system...the right rear and left front are on the same and the right front and left rear are on the same.
do it in this order (perspective is as if you are sitting in the car)
start with right rear then go to left front
then do the left rear and do the right front
There are 3 methods people usually bleed brakes (always check the master cylinder and keep it full to prevent air from entering the system):
1. cheapest...have someone sit in the car and pump the brakes 3 times then hold down the pedal...quickly open and close the valve to prevent any air from entering the system (requires 2 people)
2. speedbleeders...i know guys who live and die by them but i've never used em...they only need 1 person
3. mityvac pump...my favorite choice...the pump sucks the fluid through easily and cleanly...no pumping of the brakes needed and only takes 1 person
if you are bleeding brakes i suggest putting in a better brake fluid than the DOT3 stuff...ATX Super Blue is a good brake fluid (same freezing point but much higher boiling point).
when bleeding the system you want to start at the passenger rear (farthest )...the brakes are then staggered via a 2 channel system...the right rear and left front are on the same and the right front and left rear are on the same.
do it in this order (perspective is as if you are sitting in the car)
start with right rear then go to left front
then do the left rear and do the right front
There are 3 methods people usually bleed brakes (always check the master cylinder and keep it full to prevent air from entering the system):
1. cheapest...have someone sit in the car and pump the brakes 3 times then hold down the pedal...quickly open and close the valve to prevent any air from entering the system (requires 2 people)
2. speedbleeders...i know guys who live and die by them but i've never used em...they only need 1 person
3. mityvac pump...my favorite choice...the pump sucks the fluid through easily and cleanly...no pumping of the brakes needed and only takes 1 person
but you really don't need to bleed the brakes if you are just installing new rotors/pads. Just unscrew the reservior cap, install the 1st rotor. Pump the brakes back up, then the next rotor, pump the brakes back up, next rotor, etc... If you plan on swapping out fluids prepare yourself and buy a shitload of the stuff to ensure you flush out the dot3 because if I recollect accurately, they don't mix well. Just be prepared or live close to where you buy the fluids from or have spare car handy and do it during business hours. 
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if you are already going to all this trouble you might consider getting a set of Goodridge SS brake lines and do the whole brake job and get it done for quite some time. of course, the ABS version of the P5 will get much better gains from the brake lines that regular, but its nice to have and I don't think they're all that expensive.
(redp5)
(wrc)
(redp5)
(wrc)
lxpony said:
Right, but if he is changing the pads, he might as well go ahead and flush the brake fluid. It's a good idea to flush the brake lines every 2 years or so. Brake fluid traps moisture which lowers the boiling point of the fluid. It's amazing how much better your brakes will perform with fresh fluid...even the cheap stuff. Some people prefer the expensive stuff with higher boiling points. Oh yeah and if you are running DOT5 Silicone, you have to flush the brake lines entirely with alcohol.
New fluid?
More heat in the fluid? Maybe, but not worth changing your fluid unless you are doing track days or competition driving. Just changing the pads and rotors does not require a fluid change.
My stock P5 has been on the track and I had no problems with my brakes or fluid. If your car is used on the street or for autocross, the stock fluid will be fine.
More heat in the fluid? Maybe, but not worth changing your fluid unless you are doing track days or competition driving. Just changing the pads and rotors does not require a fluid change.
My stock P5 has been on the track and I had no problems with my brakes or fluid. If your car is used on the street or for autocross, the stock fluid will be fine.
Re: New fluid?
earlier this year, i changed to hawk hp+ and immediately boiled the stock brake fluid (just after doing a fresh flush of the systesm). I do lots of competition track driving especially with the turbo on the car it gets up to some high speeds and with the much better pads makes the car much more fun to drive (especially late braking)
i took my stock p5 to the track a couple times (only had 2k miles on it) and the stock pads worked well for a couple laps before they started fading badly...heat em up and they don't work very wellwscottl said:
earlier this year, i changed to hawk hp+ and immediately boiled the stock brake fluid (just after doing a fresh flush of the systesm). I do lots of competition track driving especially with the turbo on the car it gets up to some high speeds and with the much better pads makes the car much more fun to drive (especially late braking)
Boiling point
True, but it doesn't lower the boiling point to a level where it is unsafe. I have never heard of anyone replacing their brake fluid every two years on a street car. Of course, I'm assuming we're talking about street cars.
If this car is going to see any track time, I would hope the owner would know what he/she needs to put in there. I'm not saying it's not going to help on a street car, but every two years?
True, but it doesn't lower the boiling point to a level where it is unsafe. I have never heard of anyone replacing their brake fluid every two years on a street car. Of course, I'm assuming we're talking about street cars.
If this car is going to see any track time, I would hope the owner would know what he/she needs to put in there. I'm not saying it's not going to help on a street car, but every two years?
Re: Boiling point
Yeah 2 years on a street car is a little excessive, but if it sees occasional track time it may be worth it. My rule of thumb is to make sure I change it before it looks like coffee, but most of the time I wind up flushing it every 40-50K miles.
wscottl said:
Yeah 2 years on a street car is a little excessive, but if it sees occasional track time it may be worth it. My rule of thumb is to make sure I change it before it looks like coffee, but most of the time I wind up flushing it every 40-50K miles.
about 3 years is the mfgr regular norm on replacing brake fluid (they always bleed when changing pads or rotors)
here's the kicker that is proof...change your brake fluid after 2 years of normal driving and feel how much better the brakes are...it is quite noticeable as i've regularly done this over the years
as most of us on this board probably drives a little faster than your average driver we will also be using the brakes more often and thus the more often and harder you compress the fluid the more it is prone to absorbtion of water or even creation of bubbles
here's the kicker that is proof...change your brake fluid after 2 years of normal driving and feel how much better the brakes are...it is quite noticeable as i've regularly done this over the years
haha 60k ?? i have that and am considering getting new brakes... (i brake about twice a day!!)
should always bleed the brakes.. you change pads, bleed, if your trying for a fresh setup and better blah blah blah, then bleed them
also note on DOT 5... to use this you need to replace your entire brake lines (or it might of been just the rubber seals??) anyway, whatever it was, you should only be using DOT 3, 4 or 5.5 .... don't forget the .5 the other stuff isn't glycol based like ya normal 3 and 4
should always bleed the brakes.. you change pads, bleed, if your trying for a fresh setup and better blah blah blah, then bleed them
also note on DOT 5... to use this you need to replace your entire brake lines (or it might of been just the rubber seals??) anyway, whatever it was, you should only be using DOT 3, 4 or 5.5 .... don't forget the .5 the other stuff isn't glycol based like ya normal 3 and 4
haha 60k ?? i have that and am considering getting new brakes... (i brake about twice a day!!)
should always bleed the brakes.. you change pads, bleed, if your trying for a fresh setup and better blah blah blah, then bleed them
also note on DOT 5... to use this you need to replace your entire brake lines (or it might of been just the rubber seals??) anyway, whatever it was, you should only be using DOT 3, 4 or 5.5 .... don't forget the .5 the other stuff isn't glycol based like ya normal 3 and 4.... sooo you get hella spongy pedal, and leaky fluid after a while on dot5!!
should always bleed the brakes.. you change pads, bleed, if your trying for a fresh setup and better blah blah blah, then bleed them
also note on DOT 5... to use this you need to replace your entire brake lines (or it might of been just the rubber seals??) anyway, whatever it was, you should only be using DOT 3, 4 or 5.5 .... don't forget the .5 the other stuff isn't glycol based like ya normal 3 and 4.... sooo you get hella spongy pedal, and leaky fluid after a while on dot5!!
