2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

i cant see much from the picture, too dark,
but it kind of looks its oily residue mixed with dust. touch it with your fingers to confirm. Changing it is a good thing except the money factor :) and its not hard to change, there are some quite good instructions as well.the wheel needs to drop off and access to the bolts is from there.
Also if you've never changed the belt, it would be good to do so with removing the tensioner.
 
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Since it doesn't sound like anyone's tensioner has actually failed completely, just leaked, what is everyone's opinion as to what would take place upon a complete failure? Just curious.

I 'think" the internal spring provides the tension towards belt system while oil provides the dampening. I can't afford to be the lab rat and see what happens with all the oil drained out :(

That said interesting read on a corvette forum here: Corvette Tensioner

Theirs look almost identical. Skimp through the pics and you can see the inside of one with oil removed. The corvette has a much more powerful engine and they go through them faster.
 
Mine is oil covered but that's about it. No squeaks, vibrations or other bad things. I'm at 82k miles. I did order the part from Rock Auto and the 2 belts just in case. I suppose I'll do it one of these days when I get some time and before it gets too cold here. The video of the guy doing it on the Mazda3 made it look rather simple. FWIW, my total at Rock Auto came to $101.28 after a discount code I found online. I already have extra long handle metric ratcheting wrenches, so I should be all set.
 
Mine is oil covered but that's about it. No squeaks, vibrations or other bad things. I'm at 82k miles. I did order the part from Rock Auto and the 2 belts just in case. I suppose I'll do it one of these days when I get some time and before it gets too cold here. The video of the guy doing it on the Mazda3 made it look rather simple. FWIW, my total at Rock Auto came to $101.28 after a discount code I found online. I already have extra long handle metric ratcheting wrenches, so I should be all set.
This oil leak on tensioner is similar to the oil leak on shock absorber. Most don’t replace leaky shock absorber immediately, or worse, don’t even notice it. But it’s a problem and that‘s why Mazda issued a TSB, see post #25, and modified the damper on tensioner with better sealing to prevent the oil leak better.

If you‘re getting INA tensioner from Rock Auto, please take a picture of serial number and post it here. I wonder if the serial number from INA is in the same format as the one from OEM which is made by INA?

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Hi, kindly let me know when the tensioner started to leak, will it ruin the belts from the leaking oil?
Is gate tensioner a reliable brand to use? Thanks.
 
Hi, kindly let me know when the tensioner started to leak, will it ruin the belts from the leaking oil?
Is gate tensioner a reliable brand to use? Thanks.
As I said before, a leaky belt tensioner is like a leaky shock absorber: If you see the damper of the tensioner covered with oil and dust, you want to have it replaced at your earliest convenience. If the mileage of your CX-5 is on the higher side, such as 60K+, or you can check the condition of the serpentine belt, you should consider to replace the serpentine belt with the tensioner.

I always prefer using OEM parts, and Mazda has issued a TSB and mentioned the newer version of OEM tensioner has improved sealing to prevent oil leak. But many do like Gates tensioner for much lower price and lifetime warranty.
 
Mine it was squeaking, that is when I started looking into it, to see what is going on.
 
Mine never squeaked but the engine noise was reduced after changing.I think it allowed a gradual (not noticeable) increase in engine noise or roar that was noticed after changing.Typically, my experience with belt tensioner noises in the past has been a squealing bearing in the pulley which is most noticeable on cold starts (more noticeable in cold weather) and diminishes or goes away after running.Fixed by changing out pulley which comes with new bearing installed or whole tensioner assembly.
 
The one I bought is made by Gates. It looks like the one in line #68 of this post.

Gonna have to follow your posts. Would like to know the construction of the Gates vs the INA.

I inspected my new backup OEM INA with numbers F-569897.07 on the metal part and F8435-14 on rubber cover. The rubber cover can be removed easily. In fact, if you pinch the edges of the top or bottom part you can make some oil spill out. It is on snug vs really tight.


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ten2.jpg

I opened it and observed transparent very thin oil like baby oil or mineral oil. Odorless. The oil only fills up no more than 1/3rd of the chamber. No higher than the INA stamped logo. I used a thick dull flathead screwdriver to help carefully replace the rubber part back.

I think I could just refill with oil if under certain conditions. I went back to this Tensioner discussion starting post #18. Here's my insight:

- I agree with the guy that the oil is more for lubricating the spring inside. I'm no expert but I'm 99% sure its not for dampening.

- Oil in there simply swishes around. Only covers the lower porting of the internal spring.

- The rubber seal is not tight at all...its snug. Air and oil can easily escape.....and if that happens then dirt can easily make its way inside possibly causing friction and messing with the tension specs.

- How the heck does a non-air tight seal dampen? The spring pressure was the same as with the rubber top off.

- dude had a 2012 model where he changed the belts and put more oil in his tensioner. He probably did not know how much oil to add. Perhaps added too much, too little?

- dude used hydraulic oil. Its not under high pressure and heat so I guess it works?

- dude did end up changing his tensioner BUT reported the spring part was intact and in good condition......it was the other components of the tensioner that failed. Not the part that has oil in it. Since he changed his belts (high mileage engine) it meant the tensioner's other component failed and made noise. If said components were still good he could've kept it imho.

- seepage seems normal, don't fret....too much at least.

- Try not to let dirt/grease build up around rubber seals.

- if in doubt, replace it:)
 
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So do we have a final consensus on which tensioner to purchase? Just wondering since we have Dayco, Gates, Ina (OEM) etc. Or should we all just take one for the team and purchase different ones and compare? :)
 
So do we have a final consensus on which tensioner to purchase? Just wondering since we have Dayco, Gates, Ina (OEM) etc. Or should we all just take one for the team and purchase different ones and compare? :)

They all look the same except for the Gates/AC Delco one sharing the same part number.
Minnesotart, is your Gates top rubber or hard plastic?

Seepage appears normal (for the oem design). You want to minimize oil/dirt accumulation from getting into the black rollers and pivot points (parts on the tensioner that actual move) which could be a cause for squealing noises. I recommend just wiping the top of the tensioner periodically. Using a grocery bag covering the alternator, you could spray the top of the tensioner with mild degreaser like dawn soapy water, hose it down and also rinse off the belts below it too.

........okay now who's brave enough to just empty out all the fluid and run a dry spring only tensioner :)
 
Gonna have to follow your posts. Would like to know the construction of the Gates vs the INA.

I inspected my new backup OEM INA with numbers F-569897.07 on the metal part and F8435-14 on rubber cover. The rubber cover can be removed easily. In fact, if you pinch the edges of the top or bottom part you can make some oil spill out. It is on snug vs really tight.


View attachment 227464

View attachment 227465
I opened it and observed transparent very thin oil like baby oil or mineral oil. Odorless. The oil only fills up no more than 1/3rd of the chamber. No higher than the INA stamped logo. I used a thick dull flathead screwdriver to help carefully replace the rubber part back.

I think I could just refill with oil if under certain conditions. I went back to this Tensioner discussion starting post #18. Here's my insight:

- I agree with the guy that the oil is more for lubricating the spring inside. I'm no expert but I'm 99% sure its not for dampening.

- Oil in there simply swishes around. Only covers the lower porting of the internal spring.

- The rubber seal is not tight at all...its snug. Air and oil can easily escape.....and if that happens then dirt can easily make its way inside possibly causing friction and messing with the tension specs.

- How the heck does a non-air tight seal dampen? The spring pressure was the same as with the rubber top off.

- dude had a 2012 model where he changed the belts and put more oil in his tensioner. He probably did not know how much oil to add. Perhaps added too much, too little?

- dude used hydraulic oil. Its not under high pressure and heat so I guess it works?

- dude did end up changing his tensioner BUT reported the spring part was intact and in good condition......it was the other components of the tensioner that failed. Not the part that has oil in it. Since he changed his belts (high mileage engine) it meant the tensioner's other component failed and made noise. If said components were still good he could've kept it imho.

- seepage seems normal, don't fret....too much at least.

- Try not to let dirt/grease build up around rubber seals.

- if in doubt, replace it:)
That loosk to be an even older design than the TSB says to replace. Yours is .07, the one the TSB says to replace is .10, and the current replacement part is .13. What is the part number on the inner side of the tensioner under the Mazda logo?
 
That loosk to be an even older design than the TSB says to replace. Yours is .07, the one the TSB says to replace is .10, and the current replacement part is .13. What is the part number on the inner side of the tensioner under the Mazda logo?

Inner part?.........oh yes inner part says .10 I didn't even notice it.
 
"Project Farm" it? :unsure:


The Gates one "appears" to be made of higher quality. Compared to the OEM INA one (no matter the version) the Gates has shiny and smooth metal. Look at the bearing assembly on the roller vs the INA one with a black plastic circle shroud cover. The OEM INA next to it in video is old and dirty but even brand new it has a galvanized unfinished metal surface. The black top part assemble looks thicker as well. Look at the 7:15 mark of Video



Or use unicorn tears.

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