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ATF Recommendations. What fluid, cooler, filter? Share your experience on the Mz5!

At 50k I just did the partial change which was three quarts through the drain plug IIRC. At 115k I connected a hose to the cooler line and did a complete change of nine or ten quarts along with the filter. The filter didn't seem extremely dirty and the magnet only had a small amount of fuzz. The trans shifts the same as it did before which is to say like new.

Don't spill any of that fluid though, it took 2000 miles for the smell to go away from the teaspoon I spilled on top of the transmission.

It's an '08 and just turned 120k today. I'd day the filter was due for a change based on looking at it but someone could go 150k on the one I pulled out. Remember I live in a temperate climate and a lot of the driving is highway. It isn't a NY taxicab or towing houseboats across the Mojave.
 
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Don't spill any of that fluid though, it took 2000 miles for the smell to go away from the teaspoon I spilled on top of the transmission.

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Second that motion. I just did a 3x3x3 change on mine (drain and fill three quarts, drive and repeat two more times). I didn't spill any but the odor alone from the fluid in the drain out in the garage stunk up the house.

I used the Valvoline Import Multi. I'm at 38k miles now. I actually did have a little shudder in 5th gear when you get on the gas slightly. Seemed the torque converter had a tough time disengaging in 5th under load sometimes. That went away after the fluid change and feels the same (stock) otherwise.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Changed the ATF today (looked but not done the cooler or filter). Started late and decided to drop the pan and replace filter. Ran into a little snafu where the tip on 8 (of the 20) bolts got cross threaded when they came out but didn't realize till I was trying to button her up. Didn't want to force them back in and tried looking around local big chains but of course none of them has the required bolt and I am not about to improvise (genric bolt + washer). Will need to dop by Mazda in the morning to finish the job. More to come along with some surprises :D
 

Robotaz

Lover of 5's
:
2009 Mazda5 GT
Changed the ATF today (looked but not done the cooler or filter). Started late and decided to drop the pan and replace filter. Ran into a little snafu where the tip on 8 (of the 20) bolts got cross threaded when they came out but didn't realize till I was trying to button her up. Didn't want to force them back in and tried looking around local big chains but of course none of them has the required bolt and I am not about to improvise (genric bolt + washer). Will need to dop by Mazda in the morning to finish the job. More to come along with some surprises :D
Yippee! Aren't those jobs the best? I'm interested in seeing a picture of the filter if you have a chance.
 
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2012 Mazda 5
When I asked Mobil if they have tranny fluid for 2012-2013 mazda 5 this is the reply I received:

Mobil does not have a suitable product for your application, please procure from your local dealer.

MAZDA TSB: 05-002/11 - A/T - Correct Fluid Applications
Last issued: 02/23/2011; supersedes the previous bulletin 05-005/08 issued on 04/11/08

This TSB applies to all 2004-2011 Mazda3s with A/T. Always be sure to use the correct automatic transmission fluid when replacing the ATF. Using ATF other than ATF M-V (Type M5) in automatic transmissions designed to use this fluid may cause shift quality complaints. Using ATF other than Mercon V or Mercon LV ATF in automatic transmissions designed to use these fluids may cause transmission damage.
NOTE:
ATF M-V (Type M5) is not the same fluid as Mercon V or Mercon LV ATF.
ATF M-V (Type M5) has a greater viscosity than Mercon V and Mercon LV ATF at low temperatures.
ATF M-V (Type M5) has a greater anti-judder specification than Mercon V and Mercon LV ATF.

The correct Mazda Service Fluid is ATF M-V (Type M5) part #0000-77-112E-01.

What I found so far:

Amsoil
Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid (ATF) According to Amsoil, meets Mazda's ATF M-V (Type 5) specification.

Red Line
Red line D4 ATF According to the manufacturer, this is a suitable replacement

Castrol
Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF meets the Mazda M-V specification - Confirmed directly by Castrol customer service.

Valvoline
Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF - meets the Mazda M-V specification - Confirmed directly by Valvoline customer service.

So just three others that are qualified except the Mazda one?
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
I'm grinning ear to ear. OMG what a difference. It shifts so smooth and there is very little play going from Park to Drive. Previously I had to delay ~1.5 secs in neutral before engaging Drive to ensure a smooth transition -no more of that!

The fluid is a dark brown but doen't smell burnt. The magnet is COVERED with metal shaving and a nice coat on the bottom of the pan. But be warned, this is not as simple as other cars i've done in the past buy not hard either.

Some key things to do the job
-Ford Focus gasket and filter -yes folks, the shoes does fit! None of that sealant maker crap. (no, it does not leak, 7-9 ft/lb is your friend)
-Tap and die to repair the pan and bolt. New bolts alone is not going to help you by I guess you can jam it in and hope for the best.
-Buffing disc
-chalk

Pics to come later.
 
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2012 Mazda 5
See above - Valvoline Maxlife ATF and Castrol TRANSMAX IMPORT MULTI–VEHICLE are also ok for use as seen by their respective vendor data sheets. Vavoline datasheet above, Castrol data sheet @ http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_ImportMV.pdf
I saw that Castrol at my local Walmart but on the back of the bottle they did not list M-V in the long list and did not mention anyting about Mazda at all, so that put me off.
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
I saw that Castrol at my local Walmart but on the back of the bottle they did not list M-V in the long list and did not mention anyting about Mazda at all, so that put me off.
It's real confusing. The bottle can only list so much and the manufacturers keep changing the compatibility lists - Mobil 1 used have M-V compatibility, then they took it off? I think it has something to do with needing to pay for compatibility testing - M-V is a small market, so they don't pay for it?
 
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2012 Mazda 5
It's real confusing. The bottle can only list so much and the manufacturers keep changing the compatibility lists - Mobil 1 used have M-V compatibility, then they took it off? I think it has something to do with needing to pay for compatibility testing - M-V is a small market, so they don't pay for it?
Well, as you can see from the TSB I found, Mobil1 fluid is not 100% compatible as they meet Mercon V but that in itself is not recomended by Mazda due to issues.
So I suppose Mobil desided not to make another fluid due to market size.
I wonder if Castrol came to the same conclution after some issues and removed it as compatible? (intennet is known for keeping old info around forever, so can't go by PDFs)
 

Davicho

"The One And Only"
:
ZoomZoom
Seriously...why do you all break your head over this so much. For the $1-$2 you will save per quart trying to figure out which of all those options is suitable for our trannys. Just order/buy the damn OEM fluid from a Mazda dealer or Mazda dealer website and be done with it. When I need to do this I'm just driving to my local Mazda dealer and picking up the stuff. It serves me two purposes: 1. I know that it's what it suppose be in there 2. I have proof with receipts that the OEM fluid was used in case I have to show proof for a tranny failure.
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
Several comments:

link for Castrol compatibility is from the Castrol website - it should be good/updated

Mazda oem fluid doesn't have a good rep - It was in my transmission when it failed (lucky it was still in warranty).

After the car is out of warranty - it doesn't matter if you if you use OEM or not.

I'm cheap - a dollar saved is a dollar invested :)
 

Robotaz

Lover of 5's
:
2009 Mazda5 GT
Seriously...why do you all break your head over this so much. For the $1-$2 you will save per quart trying to figure out which of all those options is suitable for our trannys. Just order/buy the damn OEM fluid from a Mazda dealer or Mazda dealer website and be done with it. When I need to do this I'm just driving to my local Mazda dealer and picking up the stuff. It serves me two purposes: 1. I know that it's what it suppose be in there 2. I have proof with receipts that the OEM fluid was used in case I have to show proof for a tranny failure.
OEM M-V is garbage. Apparently you've missed the dozens of threads where this was determined. You might want to read up on it.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
IMO, OEM fluid is not garbage persay. It just doesn't last as long as Mazda advertises.

There was a lot of confusion on FRN5/M-V, which might have caused the labeling issue. The best indicator is reading users experience after +20k miles. I've read quite a few Ford/Mazda owners who have reported using Castrol IMV. I decided to up it a notch and go with Amsoil (supported). I think there's only one other hard to find speciality fluid that cost more but I don't believe on skimping on transmission fluid. I don't understand the logic of folks not having issues using full synthetic motor oil and sticking to ~5 k intervals yet skimp on ATF, which is used far longer!?.. I flushed 3 bottles of Castrol IMV + 8 bottles of Amsoil ATF. Next oil change, I will do power steering flush and add the ATF cooler/filter -I can't decide where to mount it...

One more comment for those who've been doing 3x3x3 drain and fill -Stop. It is so easy to flush it all that there's no reason not too. Dropping the pan and is a little more involving but if you start early, there's no need to drop it.

I'll get pics up this weekend and you can decide for yourself.
 
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2012 Mazda 5
So, I emailed Castrol regarding M-V and the fact that is was missing from the list on the bottle:

The Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF meets the Mazda M-V specification. As there is limited space on a bottle, the bottles do not always list every manufacturer's specification. It is best to confirm the properties and OEM specs met by a product through the product data sheet. Please find the product data sheet for the Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF for your personal reference. [I removed it as it has been attached before]

Castrol Consumer Relations

So looks like Castrol is ok to use if that is more accessible to you.
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
So looks like Castrol is ok to use if that is more accessible to you.
Very accessible to all - Amazon has 3 gal for $62.85 = $5.24/quart + tax. If you have prime - you get it in 2 days. This is cheaper than I can buy locally.
 

Davicho

"The One And Only"
:
ZoomZoom
OEM M-V is garbage. Apparently you've missed the dozens of threads where this was determined. You might want to read up on it.
I love your cockiness to all your responses, must be an engineer thing. Anyway, I don't think Mazda MV is garbage due to the meer fact that not many other brands of fluids can meet its specs. I think the real problem exists on most of "US" abusing our MZ5s and not doing a simple drain and refill every 15k miles even if the damn manual doesn't tell you so. Alas to each its own.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Pictures

Filter and gasket:
Ford Focus transmission pan gasket and filter. Local AdvacneAuto only carries Duralast, which Im typically not a big fan of but this kit feels decent. Google and youll find many vendors (WIX, ATP,) offer a transmission filter kit for the Focus. If I were to do this again, I would go with Motorcraft fitler + FelPro gasket.
- The gasket has a quality feel to it thick, the holes as sized just right to hold the bolt stead, and fits perfectly.
- The Duralast filters exterior material composition definitely feels cheaper than the OEM filter. Its a very simple contraption so it doesnt matter and its having the clean media inside that matter, which I cannot tell. The Focus filter differs slightly from the OE Mazda filter in that the protruding tube extension for the oil coming out is ~.5 shorter again cosmetic b/c it all goes into the pan.




Sorry, not thinking and put this on an old black towel for background

Amsoil


Dirty Pan/Filter:
Heres the pic most are waiting for. I bought the car with ~55K miles and this was taken with ~58K. The PO was a suburban NJ woman driver. I am willing to bet this transmission is on the better end of use/abuse b/c of the suburban roads and mild manner driver. The pan is not covered in sludge or anything and the magnet does have metallic particle build up but this is expected. You can decide if think it is worth cleaning. Im glad I did. Take magnet off and wipe clean, then spray down the pan with brake cleaner and let dry.





Clean Pan:
The OE gasket maker material is quite pliable. Hindsight, the easiest way to get it off is to simply rub it off with a non-scouring sponge. The pan has a slight raised grove so it is not super important to get it all off. As long as the raised grove is smooth and clean for the gasket to ensure a flat mount, it is a.o.k with me. I do believe it is important to clean off all of the gasket material on the underside of the transmission case (flat surface). I used a straight edge razor to scrape off the big chunks then rubbed the rest off with a piece of cloth.






Underside of transmission case




The bolts seem quite rusted at first and I was reluctant to take them off fearing the head might get rounded and Id need to use a extraction tool. I sprayed a little bit of Kroil and let sit for ~10 mins and it cleaned up nicely. Bolts come off very easily. Once you remove all of the bolts, the pan will still be nicely secured by the gasket maker compound. Knocking at it with a (small/light) rubber mallet is not enough. I positioned a long 2x4 again the pan horizontally and whack at the 2x4 with a nice sized hammer. Hit around at all sides and it will fall off easily. Just be aware that it will FALL once loose. You can leave 4 bolts to loose hold it in place but I didnt do that fearing the bolts might get damaged.



I make a habit of marking bolts and where they came from so I can put them back into the same threading. This didnt apply anyway b/c I re-tap/die everything nice and smooth mount. I might be on the crappy end of things b/c there is a good amount of surface rust and debris build up. When tightening, this can be a way of planning out and marking the order to tighten. It gets confusing b/c there are so many bolts and so close together. Take you eye off for a second and you wont remember which is which I ended up using a white chalk to mark each bolt as I tighten, then retighten all in a star distributed pattern.




To do a complete flush, all you need to do is remove a clamp (albeit a little difficult to reach and requires a little maneuvering) and loosen one hose. Theres a technique to this, which is hard to explain with text. You do NOT pull, ever. I can try to discuss it with you if anyone is seriously interested. You then plug in a 3/8ID hose ($.25/ft, you need ~3ft). The fluid comes out of the cooler at a pretty good rate (~2 quarts in ~10 secs very rough guestimate based on memory and eyeing it). Just be sure to cycle through the gears (P, R, D) when draining to get all residual fluid out.
Cooler out (back to case)
The round thing is the cooler. Hose to the left is the ATF inlet (out of the case) and hose to the right is the outlet (back into the case).

Remove air box and you see the inlet line back to case.
[img=http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/194/img1838jm.jpg]

I took an old washer fluid jug and (under) marked it by filling it with water from an empty one quart motor oil container. Run the flush line directly into this container so you know roughly how much came out. Makes filling a lot easier to track.

This much came out from draining the pan.



I just took a ~800 mile round trip (hence I wanted to do the ATF before I go) and so far no leaks. Up-shifts are SO smoother (barely noticeable) and the down shifts are quick and you feel the quick change. Very happy with the results. Now I need to add the cooler and filter to further prolong the tranny.
 

Robotaz

Lover of 5's
:
2009 Mazda5 GT
I love your cockiness to all your responses, must be an engineer thing. Anyway, I don't think Mazda MV is garbage due to the meer fact that not many other brands of fluids can meet its specs. I think the real problem exists on most of "US" abusing our MZ5s and not doing a simple drain and refill every 15k miles even if the damn manual doesn't tell you so. Alas to each its own.
Taking a stroll down grammar lane, cocky is conceited, rudely implying that I'm making a statement about myself when I talk about transmission fluid. Please feel free to be amused by my bluntness, but don't confuse it with being conceited. I won't hold it against you for insulting me.

The fluid is, in my opinion, garbage because it cannot meet the requirements put upon it for more than 15,000 miles without burning up. It fails the fundamental test of standing up to the duty it's designed to serve. I have seen it more than once and I stand by the opinion. You are certainly welcome to disagree on any grounds and use whichever you please. I will say that I prefer the shift quality that M-V provides, but I can't live with wondering how long the tranny will last on burned up fluid.
 
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