Any tricks for a CV shaft replacement

[neevnav]

Hey all, need to replace my passenger side CV half-shaft. I've done them on my truck before and I get the basics, just wondering if this car had any particular tricks or secrets to it?

 

[hornsfan10609]

Not really, pretty straightforward for a FWD car. Being in Canada i'm sure you will have a blast trying to knock them out!

 

[neevnav]

I've been soaking it in PB for two months, once a week or so. Hopefully that helps it.

 

[neevnav]

Oh and one other quick question. Does anyone know offhand what size the nut is? Need to pick up a socket for it. Thanks!

 

[Lewis7789]

I think the axle nut is 32mm. Passenger side should be pretty simple. Also rent a zxle pusher tool from your local auto parts store and an impact if you have one. The only real "trick" is the C-clip. The new axle may or may not have a new one on the end of the axle (that attaches to the half shaft). You may have to transfer the old one over. But when you're ready to install the new axle lube the s*** out of the splines and make sure the open end of the C on the clip is on the top, 12 o'clock. That should make it easier to push back on. The clip is what holds it in.

When removing the old axle, under the car, take a hammer to the green housing around the CV joint and tap it out, or use a pry bar against the CV joint housing. I don't suggest pulling in the actual housing from outside the car. Same when installing the new one. Try to work it on and tapping it and try not to force the CV joints or push on them too much.

Good thing is with the passneger side you don't have to worry about dripping trans fluid on yourself and smelling like dirty vag! Best of luck, mate!

 

[neevnav]

Awesome, thanks a ton!

 

[RABID_MP5]

subbing.

 

[Mort Blort]

Just went through this with a Mazda3 on the passenger side. Tricks, tricks, tricks. Tricks are needed here. This is a mofo if you don't have tricks. No worse than a one-hour job if you do. Me, I spent at least eight hours under the car mostly cussing but then learning tricks.

In the obvious-enough department, use impact to get them off. They have to jump the c-clip; there is nothing else really holding them on. That takes momentary force. Easy to do on the passenger side with a three-pound dead blow hammer. I haven't yet figured out how to get the one off on the driver's side. A large pickle fork is my thought there. The load has to be spread across the transaxle case. But as the passenger one was where I had problems, I'll worry about the other one another day.

Here is the one trick worth shouting to heaven for on this job, and I can't find where I saw it to give proper credit: HEAT THE C-CLIP. You will, guaranteed, distort the thing when you get it back on the shaft. There's no way to avoid it, even with the right tools. You need it to be seated back in that groove as well as it can be, and maybe more important, you need it to flex enough to allow the shaft past. I had been struggling literally for days on this one. So, what worked was:

1: get the clip on the shaft any way you can. A knurled clip spreader is best, but I have a hunch any way might do.

2: Clamp it tight to the shaft with a big Vise-Grip, preferably the old -- made in DeWitt, Nebraska -- kind.

3: fire up the propane torch. Make sure it's the kind that throws a pinpoint flame.

3a: make sure none of the lubes or other goops you've used in your frustration to get that thing on is going to light on fire. Spray some on a piece of concrete or something, hit it with the torch and satisfy yourself that you're not going to start a fire.

4: being careful to aim the flame precisely at the portion of the clip that's directly opposite the open end (there's actually a little more pronounced bend in the Mazda clip at precisely this point), and being careful to direct any waste heat outward, away from the seal ...

5: MAKE THAT SUCKER GLOW.

6: quickly, now: remove the vise-grip and slide that CV axle on.

7: have a beer in honor of the deity of your choice.