AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library
- Thread starter lcruz64
- Start date
Alejo sorry I didn't get a chance to upload those files before work today, I will try to get to it tomorrow. If you have cels you should definately try to fix them first and give your car a good checkup before tuning it. You shouldn't have a lean condition or any stumble @ 0vac or very low boost. 0.5 or 1 psi usually works just fine for the overpressure setting...
Post a couple of logs once you have them.
Post a couple of logs once you have them.
Oh man, 1V actually is rich because it is over .5V and you would expect the PCM to pull fuel. I never even tried doing that with the FIC. I tried 0 and every value up to .5v. I ended up using a negative offset to get the best results. You have to add fuel though to match so it doesn't just keep increasing your trims though. This was following AEM's you tube instructions.
I wish I would have known that. I even e-mailed Split Second a couple times asking if they were doing anything to force open loop but never got a response.
You are the second person to say that it sends 1V so that is probably accurate. I guess the PCM sees it as an O2 malfunction and switches to open loop, but I would expect it to eventually throw a code. When I sent 0V to the PCM it threw a code within a few seconds.
I kind of wish I kept my FIC. I have a smartphone and Torque now and could easily log the fuel system status. As it was, I had to have a family member ride shotty and keep track with my laptop.
If the car is in open loop though then I wonder why anyone has any issues under boost?
Does anyone have a good OBDII datalogger and can actually keep track of the fuel system status? My guess is that the system is just too slow. The PCM reacts so slowly that AFR cycles are a full second apart. So if you let off the throttle and the PCM happens to see the real O2 signal, it could switch to closed loop maps and trims, and then take a full second until it reads the O2 again and goes back to open loop. During that second, it would be starved of fuel if you pegged the throttle again.
I still think a parallel stand-alone is necessary to tune the car properly, but had I know that 1V forced the PCM to open-loop, I might have been able to do a better job.
Oh well, there is a lot of other cool stuff I can do with the MSII, especially now that there is Android software for it.
It's actually hard to tell the difference between super lean and super rich when the car falls on its face. If it is lean, you'll notice a kick in the pants when it finally gets fuel again. Stock cars do this all the time at the 4200rpm mark. If it is rich, it just feels muddy for a while, and sometimes you feel a smaller increase in power when the VICS kicks in at 5k, but you never get that huge kick in the pants.
The best thing to do is log everything, which is why I still think the FIC is better than the SSAFC, you can just see so much more of what is going on.
DiscreetSpeed
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
Sounds like a plan there. May not be an afc issue. If all else fails try the vac setting for overpressure and see if it still leans in the same area your leaning right now.
would torque work?
it tells me when it goe sinto open loop and what note...i could actuallt test it on a car that doens't have AFC but just a mazdaspeed ECU and 8psi...
would that be enough?
let me know.
it tells me when it goe sinto open loop and what note...i could actuallt test it on a car that doens't have AFC but just a mazdaspeed ECU and 8psi...
would that be enough?
let me know.
it all started when i started to **** aorund with the new map
my car has alwams stumbled at 4500 but never at 0vac
Double check all of the settings in the new map. Maybe go back to the old map if need be?
You can use torque to check when you are in open loop but it is pretty laggy over bluetooth. I have torque but I won't use it to tune. Right now I am using my OBDII scantool that has live data, the SSAFC and I have my autometer wideband air fuel meter hooked to my SSAFC. The combo works pretty well but I always change something before I finish my map lol. Right now I need to go re-tune for my 50/50 e85 mix.
I'm gonna go look for those excel files not...
Do you have a wideband hooked to your SSAFC for logging? If so upload a log with a couple of 3rd gear pulls.
so i finally loaded up a map today \
i did the super stock map and set my WG at 8PSI for now.
i was able to dial in a idle setting, what worked best for me was:
overpressure at -10
all cells before 0VAC at 11.1
it needs more tweaking, but i was able to have the car idle.
it idles weird though...it goes from 10 to 13.5 then i get an error saying "open loop due to error" then it goes down to 10, then it says "closed loop by O2 sensor."
i'm learning...
i did the super stock map and set my WG at 8PSI for now.
i was able to dial in a idle setting, what worked best for me was:
overpressure at -10
all cells before 0VAC at 11.1
it needs more tweaking, but i was able to have the car idle.
it idles weird though...it goes from 10 to 13.5 then i get an error saying "open loop due to error" then it goes down to 10, then it says "closed loop by O2 sensor."
i'm learning...
If the car is not FULLY warmed up then don't worry about the OL-ERROR or however your tool reports it. The MSP will not idle in closed loop until the ECT is high enough. If the car is fully warmed up and you are having issues then adjust your tune. The MSP expects to see a 2.0-2.1g/s MAF reading @ idle. Your idle may still fluctate after your adjustments while the car relearns, by the time you run thru a whole tank of gas you should be good.
Here is my small how to tune w/ the SSAFC:
Split Second AFC Tuning
1) Make a backup of your tune
2) Make a backup of your tune!
3) Check for boost/vacuum leaks
4) Warm up engine and tune CL to 0 combined fuel trim (STFT + LTFT)
.....A) Do pulls (in 3rd gear if possible) throughout the rpm range at each vacuum level (eg. -22.4, -21.4, 20.4…)
.....B) Tune on a level surface and do runs in both directions to prevent influences of wind, grade, etc.
.....C) Smooth the transition to adjacent cells
5) Disconnect battery to reset ECU. Verify fuel trims are near 0
6) Tune OL to 11.8 throughout the rpm range at each vacuum/boost level. Start from your overpressure setting (eg. .5, 1, 1.5…)
7) Thoroughly test. Various gears, light and heavy acceleration, light and heavy load acceleration
Here is my small how to tune w/ the SSAFC:
Split Second AFC Tuning
1) Make a backup of your tune
2) Make a backup of your tune!
3) Check for boost/vacuum leaks
4) Warm up engine and tune CL to 0 combined fuel trim (STFT + LTFT)
.....A) Do pulls (in 3rd gear if possible) throughout the rpm range at each vacuum level (eg. -22.4, -21.4, 20.4…)
.....B) Tune on a level surface and do runs in both directions to prevent influences of wind, grade, etc.
.....C) Smooth the transition to adjacent cells
5) Disconnect battery to reset ECU. Verify fuel trims are near 0
6) Tune OL to 11.8 throughout the rpm range at each vacuum/boost level. Start from your overpressure setting (eg. .5, 1, 1.5…)
7) Thoroughly test. Various gears, light and heavy acceleration, light and heavy load acceleration
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what?!?!?!
i don't get point #4...
and what is CL?
also, forget the fuel trims...man..that s*** was all over the place
i usually hit -25% STFT and -30%LTFT
how am i supposed to equal that to zero?
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
remove fuel. The trims are pulling fuel vs your command.
Wagon is 100% correct. Your fuel map values are too high in the areas that you are seeing extreme negative fuel trims. Lower the map value until your LTFT + STFT = ~0. You are very close to getting a cel for running too rich. I would guess that you will drop your fuel map value ~0.5 but start with a smaller number to be safe.
To tune idle and closed loop (if you have someone else driving.) Monitor your STFT + LTFT on a scan tool and watch what cell is highlighted on your SSAFC fuel map. The driver has to have a VERY light foot to keep you in the same fuel map cell for a couple of seconds so that you can get good STFT & LTFT readings.
On my car, reducing the fuel map cell by 0.1 increased the STFT by about 10. Every car will be a bit different though.
CL == closed loop
i hate to be a bother...but this is correct right?
10.1 and over = adding fuel
10=no change, ECU has total control
9.9 and lower removing fuel
i did notice that at -10 vac lightly pressing the accelerator i dip way down to the 10.0 and probably even more.
so it is WAY rich..
another question is the over pressure, right now i have it set at -10
10.1 and over = adding fuel
10=no change, ECU has total control
9.9 and lower removing fuel
i did notice that at -10 vac lightly pressing the accelerator i dip way down to the 10.0 and probably even more.
so it is WAY rich..
another question is the over pressure, right now i have it set at -10
You've got it.
< 10 tells the ECU that less air is entering the engine; the ECU pulls fuel
10 passes the reading from the MAF unchanged (a map of all 10's and a super high overpressure value would cause the car to run like stock)
> 10 tells the ECU that more air is entering the engine; the ECU adds fuel
As for the overpressure I like to run it @ 0.5psi so that my car will stay in closed loop when cruising on the highway. Running closed loop (14.7:1 afr) @ 0.4999... psi of boost should not cause any issues.
< 10 tells the ECU that less air is entering the engine; the ECU pulls fuel
10 passes the reading from the MAF unchanged (a map of all 10's and a super high overpressure value would cause the car to run like stock)
> 10 tells the ECU that more air is entering the engine; the ECU adds fuel
As for the overpressure I like to run it @ 0.5psi so that my car will stay in closed loop when cruising on the highway. Running closed loop (14.7:1 afr) @ 0.4999... psi of boost should not cause any issues.
blackburn-hero
Member
- :
- mazda protege5 turbosh*t
the instruction don't work.. possible to arrange it?
What instructions are you needing help with?
I had a cheap bluetooth elm327 knock off and it was too slow. I picked up Elmscan5 with OBDwiz from Amazon for $25. It is still really slow but I think I can get by; I will just have to hold the different rpm/vac levels longer to make sure I get a good reading (same would be true for the bluetooth one). There are some options for upping the bus speed on the Elm327 chips. I was reading up on it this morning but haven't tested it yet.
If you don't mind spending $50 instead of $25 the OBDlink SX is supposed to be several times faster than the old elm units. Check out scantools.net
nickflanders
Member
- :
- 2003.5 MSP, 2005 Acura RSX-S and 2000 Acura Integra GS
I tried to connect to my friends computer today but no success. Something about not having the correct driver.. Do we need a specific cable to connect from laptop to the split second?
