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A/C issues?

But would he have just simply have plugged in the HVAC unit for $600 or would he charge her for a new one as well?


Mechanics an be crooks.

My neighbors sister was charged $50 to replace her blinker fluid.

He went to the shop and said if you don't give her her money back, I'm phoning the cops
Hanlon's Razor: "Never ascribe malice to that that can be explained by simple stupidity"

I don't think that he would have done that, Rona has been going to his shop for years with no issues.

Remember, most mechanics -specially the older generation- are not that well versed in electronic troubleshooting.

I work on the principle of Occam's Razor: "The simplest explanation is usually correct".
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
My electronics box from 1985...

Resistors in the styrofoam and antistatic bags for IC transport. Lol




 
My electronics box from 1985...
Neato: I still have an RCA Tube Caddy back from my days as a TV repair guy in the late 60s. You used to buy them with a full complement of the most common TV tubes. I worked at a "mom and pop" TV repair shop after school and weekends.

Now all my resistors and capacitors are in plastic bins and my tools in a tool chest bolted to the electronics bench.

Still have a bunch of tubes since I was into antique radio restorations a few years ago. -and of course, a tube tester.... :)
 

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That works... Basically you're putting a relay between the switch contacts and the resistor. We do something similar in first generation Miatas for the power windows.
Although the circuit is rated for 30A [fed by a 12 GA wire] the contacts get pitted and develop a lot of resistance which results in slow window operation. Later years had a better switch assy.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
... the contacts get pitted and develop a lot of resistance which results in slow window operation. Later years had a better switch assy.
It's not just the slow motor, the contact generates a butt load of heat across it, then it travels up the wire and cooks it , or maybe starts a fire.
 
It's not just the slow motor, the contact generates a butt load of heat across it, then it travels up the wire and cooks it , or maybe starts a fire.
Yep, well aware of the consequences but on a power window circuit the switch duty cycle is like.... well a few seconds per day.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Yep, well aware of the consequences but on a power window circuit the switch duty cycle is like.... well a few seconds per day.
Yes but our owners manual says that you can't open more than two windows at a time or you'll blow the 100 Amp main fuse.

50 Amps can do a lot of damage.
 
Yes but our owners manual says that you can't open more than two windows at a time or you'll blow the 100 Amp main fuse.

50 Amps can do a lot of damage.
Miatas have the same caveat but I routinely open both at the same time on al previous Miatas I've had including the '04 and the '19.

Never have blown any fuses. -That said.... if the window tracks are extremely gummed up or the sliders have petrified grease then opening just one window can cause problems. BTW, the best lubricant for the window regulators, slides and track is Honda's Shin-Etsu grease. Does not damage rubber and stays nice and soft for almost forever. You can get in on Amazon and a tube will last you a lifetime.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I go to Krown every year.

They keep my car rustproofed and lubed.

I got them to drill extra holes to spray the sunroof mechanism.




No, I don't work for Krown but if I didn't get sprayed every year, my car would have rotted away many years ago.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Remember too that our alternator only puts out 77 Amps.

If you're driving at night in a snowstorm, with the wipers going, rear defog on, interior fan blowing and the stereo cranked, you're going to be pulling HUGE Amps out of your battery and kill it in no time.



I personally think Rona should consider a purchase from the PowerBastards!! Lol




With all the money she saved, she can buy a high output alternator.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Miatas have the same caveat but I routinely open both at the same time on al previous Miatas I've had including the '04 and the '19.

Never have blown a fuse...
We've got four windows and although it's kinda hard to push more than 2 buttons at once, you could have rear passengers and if everybody is playing with the buttons at once, you could blow the main fuse.

The 100 Amp main fuse is a PITA because you have to remove the fuse box to access and unbolt it.


 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Hanlon's Razor: "Never ascribe malice to that that can be explained by simple stupidity"

I like it !!

I remember tightening up my alternator belt because it just loves to squeal.
I managed to access the adjuster bolt from the top by blindly reaching in behind and turning the bolt with a wrench.

The wrench spun up and touched the positive post on the alternator, so lots of sparks and a blown main fuse (things line up perfectly and I'm too lazy to disconnect the battery ).

Then a few months later, I did it again.

There was no malice intended against myself, I was just too stupid to remember about the issue or put a rubber grommet on the alternator post.

I finally put a rubber grommet on the alternator post.
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
Mechanics an be crooks.
I'm no master tech but I've learned that lesson over and over.
Just the other day I spent the day correcting the brake job that the Ford dealership did on my gf's car, $600 and they've been squeaking and groaning ever since they did it. Hardware was installed incorrectly, slide pins were dry, and rear drums were dragging.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I took my car in for a brake job when I first got my car and before I joined this forum and decided to become my own mechanic.

I was quoted $250 for rotors and pads.

I got a call at 5 p.m. and they said both rear calipers were seized and I needed new calipers.

I got my car the next day and they said they managed to get one caliper unseized but I was still charged $740.

About a year later after joining this forum I learned about the adjustment screw for the rear calipers and I phoned my local Mazda dealer with my VIN # and they looked it up and told my that both rear calipers were replaced shortly before I bought my car.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I remember going to install my winter set of wheels and realized that my front right wheel lug nuts were only hand tight.
I drove the car like that for 6 months.
I now put the torque wrench on my driver's seat as a reminder to tighten the damn lug nuts.

I can be my own worst mechanic. Lol
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I hope Rona is OK with me high jacking her thread but her AC is fixed now so she might be OK with it.
 
I personally think Rona should consider a purchase from the PowerBastards!! Lol


With all the money she saved, she can buy a high output alternator.
I don't replace alternators, I rebuild them that way I know they will work when installed. 77AH is plenty for these cars with a healthy battery.

I used to put higher output alternators in my cars when I was running a couple of old 150 W "Motrac" transceivers that drew about 10A on receive and over 50 on transmit....
 
I hope Rona is OK with me high jacking her thread but her AC is fixed now so she might be OK with it.
I'm pretty sure that she wont mind.... If you did that in another forum where I'm one of the moderators, it would get made into its own thread in a hurry . . . .:)
 
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